meadowblaster

I need help. I've done a couple timing jobs in the past and some engine rebuilds so I decided to tackle the timing belt on my 03 TL. I have all the TB covers off, crank pulley off. I screwed the crank pulley bolt back into the crank to turn the motor to line it up at TDC. Probably shouldn't have done that. I started turning it and realized that, like an idiot, I pulled the key out when I pulled the pulley off. Since the key wasn't in, I basically turned the crank pulley one full turn without it engaged with the gear for the TB, therefore not turning the cams. I put the key back in and have everything set to TDC now. Did I do any damage? I didn't feel anything hitting, would I be able to feel if a piston hit a valve? Is this a true interference engine? Second problem is I can't get the crank pulley bolt back out now because I have no way of keeping the crank from turning, unless I wedge something to keep the cam gears from turning, but I wasn't sure about trying that. Any ideas?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Assuming that your timing belt is still in place and not yet removed, If you look at the timing belt drive pulley(TBDP) (the pulley at the bottom that the crank pulley attaches to) the TBDP has a TDC mark (it looks like an arrow head) on a tooth of the TBDP. Use that 'mark' to align up with the pointer on the oil pump. The pointer on the oil pump is at the 12 0'clock position just above the TBDP on the block. Use those marks with the front cam pulley mark (the cam pulley mark on the outer most edge of the pulley; not the line on the inner spoke of the pulley by the number 1) find your TDC for cylinder #1. Once you are certian that TDC for #1 is OK, try and remove the crank bolt. It (the crank bolt) may come loose with a couple quick jerks counter clockwise , if it does check your TDC. If you can unscrew the bolt put the key back in along with the pulley, correct the TDC by the cam bolts very easy or the crank bolt. Then remove the crank bolt to get on with the job.

meadowblaster

Thanks Zeta,
I have already lined everything back up to TDC. I just want to make sure no damage was done while I turned the crank by itself. I tried quick jerks but no luck on loosening the bolt. I was thinking a quick blast with an impact would turn it fastand loosen it without turning the crank. Anyone see a problem trying that?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I just realized, after reading your post again, that you probably can't see the TBDP arrow head with the crank pulley on. If the TB has not been removed, just try to break the crank bolt loose with a couple quick jerks counter clockwise. You don't really need the crank pulley on to find TDC as long as the old TB has not been removed initially.

I had to do that when I did mine after using the starter method to loosen the crank bolt. I then had to find TDC again manually; however, that inturn retightened the crank bolt somewhat. I then went counter clockwise quickly (with the rachet) and the bolt came loose without messing up TDC.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

No damage should have been done, as long as the TB was turning the camgears while you '...turned the crank by itself.' It's just a matter of getting that bolt out so that you can proceed.

That might be the ticket. Once you get the crank bolt out, the manual states to:
Clean all oiloff the inside face of the crankshaft pulley, and apply lubricant to the pulley bolt and washer; upon reinstall.

hondaacurapro

You shouldn't have done any damage. When the valve comes in contact with the piston there is a considerable amount of resistance. If it turned smoothly throughout the process, it should be fine. If you have access to an impact, use it to loosen the bolt.

meadowblaster

I was turning the crank gear by itself, the key was not in the key way so the gear on the crank didn't turn while I tuned the bolt, so it didn't turn the belt, even though the belt is still on. I felt no resistance while turning other than the normal compression of the engine. I am going to try impact after work tonight and try to get the bolt off.

jdjohn84

I agree with the other guys...you should be fine. Were the cams at TDC when you were turning the crank freely? If so, that would mean that the valves were seated in the head and would not be in the way of the pistons. I couldn't tell by reading if your cams were already at TDC.

fsttyms1

You didnt cause any damage.

Mental note, next time loosen the crank bolt, THEN rotate the motor so every thing is TDC THEN pull all the covers off. WIth every thing off its much harder to align the crank mark to TDC and to make sure the front cam is aligned to the TDC mark at the same time.

01tl4tl

crank pulley bolt is on with 181 pounds torque
Need honda pulley removal tool which locks in and holds it tight

a 4 foot breaker bar for leverage for manual method,
a giant air compressor with badazz air gun
or use the starter and breaker bar against ground to get the bolt loose

Getting it tight will require jamming a prybar in the flywheel/flex plate thru lower access cover

meadowblaster

I used the holder tool to loosen with a breaker bar to get it loose originally. I will try the prybar in the flywheel method to keep the crank from turning so I can get the bolt out now. It shouldn't be very tight, just hand tightened as I turned the crank. I just can't break it loose with out moving the crank counter clockwise which I don't want to do.

meadowblaster

Went home at lunch and popped the inspection plate off. Put a prybar in the flywheel teeth and had my crank pulley bolt back out in minutes. Thanks everyone for the help.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear.

If you are replacing the timing belt adjuster (#6) make sure to reuse the auto adjuster collar (#9) and tighten the timing belt adjuster bolt (#7) to 19 foot lbs. I also used a little blue locktite on that bolt for good measure; however, it is not necessary.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

jdjohn84

I must have looked behind the wrong inspection plate when I did mine. My flywheel/flexplate didn't have any teeth. Is there more than one inspection plate under there?

meadowblaster

There is just one, a steel plate held on with two bolts. If you are laying under the car and looking up into the opening, it's hard to see the actual teeth, but they are there.

jdjohn84

Gotcha...it must be smaller than the one immediately behind the inspection plate. Maybe I didn't look far enough up into the opening.