While seafoaming the the car I noticed a very strange noise coming from my alternator area.
Its a sort of grinding sound when I give it gas. I thought it was the alternator internals going bad. Turns out its the tensioner right near it. Looks like a pain to do myself. I've never messed with belts/pulleys. most likely going to order it and have someone put it in.
Should I get this done ASAP??? I really need brakes, so hoping this can wait....

 

Its very easy to replace. 3 small bolts and it comes right out. If its grinding the bearings are gone. If it seizes up you loose all sorts of stuff. Buy the part, take the belt off and replace it yourself.

 

I'm guessing this is what I need?
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...y1=&inputstate=

Only thing that worries me is getting the belt back on there right.
Once I unbolt I can just slide it off an back on?

 

Thanks fstty.
Can someone please verify that's the part I need? Want to order this today so I don't run into any problems. I don't need the timing belt tensioner. All that was done 20k miles ago.

 

Your link doesn't have a diagram so it's hard to tell. What year is your car?

Put a wrench on the middle bolt of the tensioner and push it back (towards the firewall). See if it makes the noise you are hearing. The belt is easy to remove and install. It comes off once the tension is removed by pushing the tensioner back as described above. The hardest part is getting at the third bolt in the back, I had to get at it from underneath.

 

Sorry here is a better link
http://honda.magauto.com/partlocator...layCatalogid=0
Car is an 02. Thanks for the info vtec. I'm gonna try an do this soon, but doing my front brakes this weekend ( really really need to do this!) The grinding is not super loud, can only hear it under hood when pulling throttle. Gets steady quiet with even throttle.

Also do throttle cables get slack over time? They just seemed a little to easy to push down on with my finger.

 

Yes that's the correct part. 31170-P8F-A01

 

Thanks

 

Wonder if its just the pulley making that sound?? Would be a cheaper fix.

 

Id Buy the whole tensioner.

To replace it the belt HAS to come off before you remove the bolts.

 

buy the whole tensioner/pulley...sounds like the a/c tensioner...i had the same problem.....put the a/c on u should hear it more...

 

Thanks guys. I will be doing the whole thing.

 

How easy is it to access those three bolts from the top side of the vehicle? Is there anything other than the belt that will need to be moved out of the way? Will I need to do anything from underneath the car at all?

 

I have big hands and could not figure a way from the top
I believe others are going thru the right fender liner panel-
remove wheel and liner- access to all

its not just the pulley part - its the whole unit failed-
that tensioner does amazing work keeping the belt at correct tension thru rpm romps

 

mine from an import parts store was 85 complete

 

Thanks for the feedback. I just purchased a tensioner from the Honda estore for like $68 (well just over $70 with taxes and all) so I am good to go. Sounds like I will be removing my tire and going in from the wheelbase. It does seem like a tight fit from the top side of the hood looking in.

 

less than a mechanics hand with more than 3 layers of skin remaining~

 

You don't need to replace the whole thing unless the tension part has problem. most part stores sell just the roller pulley with bearing, and it is a lot easier to install, with just one bolt removal. Like this one below. all you have to do is loosing up the ps reservoir, a 14mm offset wrench with an extension, thats it. remember the bolt is reverse thread.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AC-De...item3a5dec08cf

 

My car is making the same grinding noise too. A few months ago I replaced my timing belt, water pump, all belts and only one tensioner. And I still am getting the same noise. I don't remember exactly what tensioner I replaced. But it makes a stronger noise when I turn on my headlights, and AC. Don't know If I should go with a new alternator or tensioner.

 

In your case, it is either the serpentine tensioner or the alternator. Check the tensioner first as it is a cheaper part than the alternator.

 

a $5 mechanics stethascope will solve this scooby-doo mystery
listen to each part- the one that has gravel noises has the bad bearings
very likely its the ac belt tensioner, mine made noise at 45 and finally died at 80kmiles

hopefully they replaced your timing belt tensioner!

I would never replace just the spinning part, the arm section does all the real work of keeping belt tension correct as rpms change
Watch it in action sometime~

 

^^^ Does this fall the same for the 3G 01tl? I replaced my TB, water pump, all pulleys behind the timing covers on Saturday and now I'm getting the sound like something is loose coming from the belt area. It just started this morning and I'm thinking it's my serpentine tensioner. Any methods of trouble shooting before I replace it?

What would happen if I were to remove the serpentine belt and start the motor?

 

Its kind of difficult to hear where the noise is coming from everything is so close together. I might just end up replacing the tensioner first if that doesn't work then I'll go with my alternator

 

a stethascope narrows noise to exact location

 

If you don't want to buy a stethoscope, a length of hose will work as well. Stick one end in your ear, and place the other end in the middle of the pulley while the car is running. If the bearing is bad, you will hear it. Try the same on the alternator for comparison - probably nice and quiet.

I went cheap and just replaced the pulley and bearing the first time, but the belt still squeaked, so then I bought the whole unit - tensioner arm and pulley. That fixed it.

It's almost impossible to change just the pulley without removing the entire unit anyway, so go ahead and replace the whole thing. You can access the top bolt from above, but the bottom bolt, and the smaller, skinny, super-long center bolt are best to remove from the bottom. Besides the wheel, you will have to remove (or at least drop one side of) the slash guard in order to access the tensioner.

AMUA6, you can take off the belt and still start the engine safely, but you will be running the engine and any electrical accessories off battery power alone while doing so. Use a hose or stethoscope instead - much easier than removing and re-installing the serpentine belt.

 

once the belt is off,, you may as well replace it and the tensioner if over 60kmiles

a loud tensioner probably added some wear to the belt- so replacement makes sense- and we all have enough years and miles to merit a few new rotating parts

side note: some 02-03 have a recall on the timing belt pulley assembly which can wear out the tensioner, water pump and other bad things
ck with acura 1 800 382 2238x5

 

If you want to work on your car- a mechanics stethascope will change your life

A hose works, but the differance is beyond description!

its a cheap tool that is worth far more than its cost,,when on sale at hft I get a few just to have spares,,one for each vehicle, one to misplace..

and it trips the neigbors out when I start poking around under the hood with it..
wear a white lab coat to work on the car,,

 

I have both on hand. My stethoscope is the kind with the metal rod, not like a medical stethoscope. However, when trying to find a vacuum leak, the hose works better.

 

yes the mechanics type has probe-metal tip made for listening to bearing noises

for vac noise the hose is your friend

Us older guys have the cool tricks and tools~

 

Hey- who you callin' older-

 

These come in handy when my hearing aid goes out.

 

What tools do you use?

I could only get to the bottom bolt from the wheel well after taking the plastic off, I don't have the proper tool to reach into the middle bolt and the top, for the middle it seems like I need something very small in diameter to fit and something small in length and for the top, it seems like the dip stick comes in the way. I need something with what type of tools can I use to get to these two bolts. I was using a 1/4 wrench and a small socket

 

did you ck the diy list? or a thread has fsttyms1 post on how to ,use search

 

My dealer quoted me 820$ CAD for:
-tbelt
-tensioner
-no wpump

200 more ish for wpump
180 for serpentine belt tensioner

60 to diagnose whats making the clicking.

What do you think about this and this comes with the dealer warranty as they are a big dealer in town that does honda and acura.


Without mentioning my problem, He said they've been seeing that on most of the honda v6's the tensioners are wearing out prematurely.
I kind of want to get to the bottom of this without breaking the bank.

__

I'm getting quotes on the tensioner for 165 at my local cheap parts store and 175 for the dealer.

am i asking for the wrong part??
It seems online that the part is on average 60-80 USD ish...

I called around for a mec stethoscope and there 25 bucks.
Maybe i can get them to check it at an off hour for a discount or something as i dont want to be replacing parts with my head cut off.

 

Sorry i wasn't able to locate instructions in that diy list, I had issues with getting the tools inside the right spot if you read my question...

Here is what I did to get it work for me

1) take belt off

2) open bottom bolt with standard ratchet and small size socket from below the car through the wheel side

3) For the middle bolt which I had issues with, I used this http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Dana...e-8613176.html with a small socket using a pipe to make the handle longer and opened it from the top

4) for the top bolt which I also had some issues reaching too, I remove dip stick first by opening one bolt from the top and opened the top bolt using standard ratchet and small socket from the top.

The outcome: The grinding noise I use to hear when I lightly pressed the pedal at idle is now gone, all I hear now is the sound is accelerating rpms

Tensioner was about $70 USD from Delray Acura vs $170 or so from here in Canada, Canadian dealers sure do like to rip as much as they can, I wonder why there is no control over the prices, at the end the car manufacturer is the one that gets hurt because people end up using aftermarket parts and taking their car in to the garage over and over

 

I am in Toronto and buy my parts from here: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp

My advise: Buy from US, get them shipped to you in BC, get them installed by Acura or do it yourself if you feel comfortable.

Canadian Acura Dealers have over 100% markup on parts, what's funny is that the OEM tensioner is actually Made In Canada but will cost you $180 here vs $70 from US.

while you order that, you may want to order any other things you need such as the cabin filters, air filters, etc, you'll save a lot

 

geez why dont you guys drive across and pick up what you need here, then let a private shop do the work?
or get all the work done here since the loon is strong now

extra $200 for the wp!!! can you say bend over???--
only a fool does all the other work and not the wp! its the last part right behind the t-belt and a critical engine part--its heart so to speak
And they are not even suggesting valve adjust,, AND want 60 bucks to diagnose the failure of an 80 dollar part!!!! total bs
25 for a stethascope!!! who are you calling, the snap-on tool man?
Use a long screwdriver instead
You need the ac belt tensioner assembly--there you go- -no charge for correct diagnosis

 

Thank you sirs.

My midterms are done (aced them too), so now i have time to research the cheapest parts and get this tl fixed up.
(Ive worked up enough $ to get this done)

Interesting thing about the honda dealer.
The honda dealer is scary - they somewhat pretend to be nice. I helped my aunt get her RDX battery replaced on warranty as it was dead - gimped cell - I asked the desk about there service procedures - they skimp. I dont know about other dealers, but they only gave us a one way 15$ (witch is nothing in Victoria) taxi credit for a waranty fix - I think that's what you get for almost all services too. At the old acura dealer (now a kia dealer - but all acura techs are there and equip) they give you a unlimited taxi ride both ways - I know the owner and his son-in law the manager of the service center) - I am probably going to get this tbelt deal done there - i have yet to call, just called honda so far. I dont have the right jack to change the oil/atf myself so i took it to kia because I know them.

You know, there are so many, and I mean so many Accords and TL's where I live. There must be so much cheating by the mega dealer here. The large elderly community here (retirement capital - no winter, no harsh weather, beautiful) must just be torn to shreds.

/end rant

 

communities of elderly people are the service writers wet dream
They ok anything and everything and no hassles on price

Take this as warning--protect your grandparents and parents on auto repair!!

 

I know, it just happened to my grandma!!
She had just broken her back too - literally, fractured a vertebrae!
Her Explorer Edie Bauer was leaking the tiniest amount of oil.
They basically just had fun replacing everything under the sun - 2500$ - when she asked me to see the bill i was shocked.
Then there replacement water pump and gaskets failed right as the truck came home and grandma brought the truck back - the guy said that it wasn't his fault - so !#@$! stubborn
After she told me, It obviously was his your fault - I wanted to get bbb involved.
- what we had to do is go a dealer, get a report of the problems, and bring it to the guy.
He fixed the water pump, but said f-off to the oil leak - the @#$ DEALER SAID HE MESSED IT UP - now it loses a quart every couple weeks or so.
My grandma usually is the one to get lawyers involved, but i guess she wants to let this one go.

She's thinking about a new truck, so i have it narrowed down to a RDX and Lexus. Not the Q5, or Murano or something domestic She had an Audi - they look great new and are great, but kill you on repairs.