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Number 17?

 

have you ckd the PCV on the rear valve cover- has a ball inside that should move freely

when its clogged, oil will get forced out the rear main seal and sometime other oil seals

 

#5

 

I thought the main seal was more of an circle. Number 5 looks like a gasket.

 

For the exact part # of seals and gaskets, check an online OEM Acura parts source for info.

 

This is the most common part that fails, #20 and you will need #21 also.

 

So in that photo, #20 (91214-P8A-A01 OIL SEAL (80X98X10) (NOK)) is the rear main seal?

 

lmk how this fix goes, my rear main seal is in bad shape too!! Was gonna get it fixed but shops are just telling me to buy a new trans if I'm gonna be spending 800+ for the fix...

 

Just want to confirm a few things as I am about to do the rear seal repair in a week or two...

1. What is the part number of the rear main seal?
2. Should I buy it from Acura or should I just go third-party?
3. Is there a "repair-sleeve" available for this?
4. Anything else I should look at while I'm in that area?

Car has 162k miles on it.

 

the engine rear main seal -behind the flywheel - right?
sleeve- what are you talking about??
Its a simple round seal - remove old- insert new= done

get one from Acura to be safe, its 10 bucks,, plus 4 hours labor to remove and reinstall trans- maybe extra 30 minutes to remove flywheel and perform seal replacement
a trans shop would be the best place... compared to regular repair shop that doesn't do a trans pull,,maybe ever!

 

only things to inspect while there are flywheel teeth- if you have a habit of starting the car after its already running

and the starter teeth for same reason

 

My dad and I are going to be doing it ourselves. He mentioned that on some cars he installed a repair sleeve, like this (http://static---geoffhavens.app-hosted.com/media/img/geoffhavens/-/H/microsleevediagram1.jpg)

But I guess they don't make them because it's not necessary for our cars. Just curious.

Do you know what the part number is for the seal? The images and lines are kinda confusing.

 

I would call your local dealer and ask for it- they know for certain
or any of our dealer vendors

a normal seal puller should work to remove- confirm with fsttyms1
Probably a big socket, or borrow a seal installer kit from local parts store to install

ANYONE know exactly what tool for removal- is it the normal hook an edge and yank type ? and installation tips- lightly grease edge with??

 

CAUTION The transmission weighs 450 pounds- that's a lot more than you would expect and more than the average trans
Make sure your trans jack is up to the task -rent one if needed - and SECURE the trans to the platform or it will happily roll off and crush something important on your body

A trip to the Emergency Room puts a damper on most DIY projects

 

clearly mark the Ground cable to trans- and which one is its bolt
Easy thing to forget on installation

remove and clean all ground cables and braided ground wires while you have the car down for maintenance
Many ziners are finding age related problems with battery cables recently

 

The seal is on a plate which can be taken off the engine plus the o-ring thats toasted needs to be replaced and thats behind the plate anyway.

After the plate is out changing the seal is easy, I used a flat head screw driver to remove the old one then I used a big socket (forgot the size)

 

Well....It was a pain in the ass job to replace that main seal, but the job is done.

 

did you throw a new atf filter on there while it was exposed?

Heck of a job there, flat-backin a TL trans, major props!!

Everyone see the blue paint on bolt heads indicating acura warranty unit?

 

No. That's why I asked if there was anything else I should do while down there

Oh, so that's what those blue bolts mean.

 

Also, after putting everything back together...

CEL is on throwing a code for the O2 sensor. I'm 100% positive I plugged it back in, but I'm pretty sure it had some crud on it from ATF dripping down on it. After driving about 200+ miles since the job, hopefully the exhaust will have blown all that crap off.

I will clear the code and see if it comes back.

The only other issue is a slight rattle from suspension. I'm sure this will get resolved when I go in for an alignment.

 

recheck all your work on suspension- easy to leave something where you think its tight- but put weight on it and things change!

the external atf filter is fairly accessible from above- remove battery tray and a bracket

try some CRC electronics spray cleaner on O2 connections-
cleaned battery connections- ground cables etc so signals can get thru to ecu?

 

Nice work, Did the code mention heater circuit ?

 

I dont think so. The code was P0141

Just cleaned the O2 sensor as mentioned above. Hopefully this gets rid of the CEL

 

So it is still throwing the code after cleaning and reconnecting the sensors plug behind the motor.

It would be a very big coincidence that the O2 Sensor needs to be replaced after doing this repair (unless it was damaged during it).

Any other suggestions before I go and try to install a new sensor?

 

If your getting a code for o2 sensor failure, then I would go ahead and replace it. Let us know if it fixes the issue!

 

I had the same issue after swapping a trans on an accord not to long ago, also seen a video of a transmission shop saying its common since the exhaust gets banged up during install/uninstall, specially high mileage ones.

 

Just looked up the code, just as I expected P0141 is for the heater circuit, I had the same code after the swap.
Replace the sensor with oem an one and nothing else to avoid further issues.

 

Thats the primary sensor you cleaned.

The code indicates a problem with the sensor on the catalytic converter (secondary).
This one:

 

That's interesting. We didn't remove the Cat.

Where does that O2 sensor connect? Near the rear of the motor where the other one is?

 

This is where its located #10 , follow the wire from the cat to the connector.

 

Thanks, I'm gonna take a look. I thought the cat o2 sensor plugs underneath the passenger seat. Maybe that's on a different model.

also....im sure everyone asks this, but where do you get these diagrams?

 

Those diagrams are most likely from the factory service manual. You can get it in pdf format somewhere here for free. Its around 950 MB.

 

I'm considering doing a lot (LOT) of work on my car and would like to have the service manual - where is it located?

 

try using our search feature to find posted threads ie: the service manual

Erick's Lifes Work..... involves providing diagrams~

 

there is not much you can do to a TL that's not covered in the diy section, or at least some threads in the general or performance sections

 

Fixed the issue and no more CEL.
The problem was most likely caused by dropping the exhaust which tugged on the Cat O2 sensor. I followed the cable and the little blue grommets where the cables meet the plug were pulled out. Just took a little push to press them back into their sockets and reconnected the plug. Removed the negative battery cable (to reset the CEL) and reconnected.

Turned on ignition (fingers crossed). No more CEL.

Here is a photo for reference if anyone else has this issue in the future.

 

That's a good note- when screwing with exhaust at all, remove clip on O2 sensor!

also a reminder: the shortcut method to ECU /code clearing is remove the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash or kick panel for 1 minute and reinsert
its the secret backup power to ecu and forces a reset

That avoids owner needing to input radio security code,,,
not everyone knows their code or can find the card they wrote it on,
TIP!! write the codes on edge of glovebox door,,nobody steals a TL radio or nav these days!

 

Yep, or save the code in your phone as a contact.

As it turns out....I've used the code so many times I have it memorized

 

lose your phone and.....

Write that stuff down,,some day your TL may have a new owner

 

Not to make this off topic, but it would take a lot more than losing my phone for my contacts to get deleted. Data centers around the country would have to explode as well. With all that said.....it's written down in my car