This issue just was noticed for the first time a few days ago:

Only when everything has been running for a little while (a short 7 mile trip to work), I am noticing a strong burning smell from my car. You can smell it from inside the cabin, but more so when opening the hood and going in between the rear of the engine and firewall.

After a longer drive it is noticed that there is small amount of white smoke coming from that exact area. It's really hard to see where it's coming from, but it can only really be seen in that area.

The car has almost 160k miles on it. It smells a little like burnt rubber, so I'm thinking a hose might be cracking and needs to be replaced. I guess that would also explain the signs of smoke. Possibly vapor from something burning off?

I'm posting some photos to give a better idea of that area if someone can give me any first guesses as to what to look for that would be awesome.

 

Does it smell sweet like coolant .....or more pungent like oil ?

~ Do ya have any oil leaking down from the motor's rear ? If so, could be a gasket or seal.
~ Check all the coolant/heater hoses and connections for possible pinhole leaks.

 

Might have caught a plastic bag or something is touching the exhaust piping, Inspect the undercarriage. Also check what 3.2TLc mentioned

 

Definitely smells like oil or rubber, not sweet.

I did just check underneath my car in my garage after heating it up from a drive and there was some fresh oil splatter on the floor

Do you think rear seal or something? What do you think the next steps should be? Maybe an additive in the oil to help reseal that?

 

Some more images now that I lifted the car up and I can squeeze underneath.

There is not much oil around the oil pan (and quick release valve). There is a lot of oil which seems to be dripping on the exhaust (source of smoke?) and other areas. I still have the car lifted in the garage if you think I should take a picture of something else.

Or maybe wipe everything down and wait to see where it drips from.

 

Yeah, definitely looks like an oil leak. Your best bet would be to try to degrease or clean everything up on the backside and bottom of the motor. That way you can better track down the leak's main source of origin. Make sure that the rear valve cover isn't seeping.

Replace the PCV valve and grommet with an OEM part. Once everything is not so grungy, a fresh oil leak will be easier to see. After running the car, shut it off, safely support it and use a bright light to inspect the rear side of the motor for fresh oil anywhere that it could be coming from. When parked overnight, lay a piece of cardboard underneath the motor to help narrow the point of the leak's direction downward.

 

Thanks for the direction to go next. I just tried to wipe everything up the best I could. Which part number is the PCV Valve and Grommet?

 

 

For the PCV, check an online Acura partstore or go to your local dealer.

It may cost a bit more, but the valve will perform and fit much better than some of the generic aftermarket parts. The valve should rattle inside if ya shake it. If gunked up, a clogged PCV can contribute to higher internal pressure which could lead to the rear main seal leaking.

 

I dont just want to clean it? just replace it, huh.

 

Yeah, for less than $15......it's well worth replacing the valve with a new one while you're at it.

 

I think it's more like $25. The acura Dealers around here suck.

 

Cant see those ^^ pics

 

Sorry, i'll repost them here:

 

I took off the PCV valve and it looked fairly clean. I gave it a light shake and immediately heard the rattle you are talking about. I dont think that's causing any sort of issue.

 

Yah looks like rear main seal to me... Though the PCV should not put a strain to it if its leaking its on its way out anyway, PCV or not it will still leak after you replace the PCV..

 

I just cleaned everything underneath my car that had gunk/oil on it. It's pretty clean now, so it should be apparent when I check sometime tomorrow or this week where it's coming from.

If it is the main seal...where would I see the oil coming from? The main seal is on the right side of the motor when standing in front of the car, correct?

Also, if it is the main seal...should I look into using a main seal treatment to try and resolve it or should I already be looking into replacing it?

 

Yes it is on the drivers side. I would not put that junk in my car. I would just replace the seal and the transmission while you are at it!
Edit: Looks like you swapped the transmission at 100K most recommend doing it then.

 

You say that like it's a simple saturday repair.

Is there any forum write ups on how to replace it?

 

Would've been a simple repair at the time of replacing the tranny, but not so easy to do now.

 

The Acura Dealership did it under warranty. I'm going to call them to see if they did the rear main seal also....but I doubt it.

 

Latest update:

Seems like oil is dripping from the area where the motor and transmission meet (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

In the third image here, I've added some red arrows. There is a pretty substantial gap here. Is that normal?







With these pictures of the leak on a clean surface, can we say it's most likely the rear seal. Or is there still a chance it is something else?

 

Ive been using Atp-205 from amazon or ebay for about $15 and it really helped with the leak, Ill change it out when the tranny gives up and the Av6 goes in.

Reason I used it, When I replaced the engine I didn't take the chance. (rookie mistake)

 

I just put a bottle of Blue Devil into my oil. Let's see if this helps at all.

http://store.gobluedevil.com/rear-main-sealer-00234/

 

One day after putting in Blue Devil...

No immediate signs of leakage from the first posted photos, but still some oil in this area. Should I still be concerned with the main seal or something else?



Also...is there a diagram view of my motor and transmission assembly somewhere so I can easily identify where it may be coming from?

 

i would not recommend putting that stuff in my engine. good luck with that!

 

You know...Everyone has been telling me that, but there is no way this company is still in business if it destroys motors. People put fuel additives and lucas oil additives into their motors all the time and nobody says anything about those.

I think a lot of people are confusing Blue Devils stuff with something like this....


Which I have seen this "sludge" poured into cars before and that's exactly what it looks like.....sludge. The blue devil stuff looks like water. Extremely viscous (about 5w-20) and clear.

I guess it comes down to this...
1) Replace the rear main seal
2) Try this stuff...and then replace the main seal anyway.

 

I have no experience with Blue Devil, if its not an oil thickener IMO its ok.
Its worst for the oil to leak out and run dry

 

Yeah its the rear main seal guaranteed.. You can check it by removing the TQ Cover Plate that its held by the single 10mm bolt.. If you remove it and follow the drip behind the Flexplate then you know the obvious..


I would not recommend on using Oil Leak repairs as most just thicken the OIL or do funny things to bearings.. I know replace the Seal sounds like a hassle and I wont lie to you it is... But once you get it fix you will forget about it for a long looonggg time..

 

Thanks for the honest response!

Can you be a little more specific about where the TQ cover plate and flex plate is?

 

The cover is the rusted piece in this picture (Touched by your red circle)


Its held by the single 10mm bolt and its used to access the bolts of the Torque Convertor in order to remove the transmission and its where your leak is probably coming from.

 

The drip of the oil seems to have subsided after using the Blue Devil. But there still seems to be some residual oil underneath that is coming from the area attached. Around those bolts is where most of it is coming from. Is that the oil pump?



When I got home from work today I put a clean piece of cardboard under my car immediately and waited about 2 hours. When I checked it was spotless.

 

some years the inspection plate under the trans to engine connection is held on by 4 small bolts--its located where the trans and engine meet!
with either plate- if there is engine oil in there its leaking from rear main seal

IF this trans job had been done very recently,,I would speak with the service MANAGER about splitting the labor to replace- about 400$ total- a good tech and writer SHOULD have suggested the seal at 10 dollars while the trans was already removed
based on total miles it was overdue
they should be good about it and split the repair,,not at retail labor but at shop internal cost
BUT
didn't you say 160 on it now?
in that case- a trans shop will be cheaper to remove trans- replace seal and install trans
make sure it gets the new style fluid

 

if its looking good with additive- remove inspection plate and make sure its all dry
and MONITOR THAT

 

Make sure to keep the oil level at the low mark and see if that stops the leaking.

 

Also, note that the oil leak was present under the oil pan, so it could be leaking somewhere else too. I don't know if main seal leak alone would run the leaking oil over to the oil pan. Just a thought.

 

This is what I have been thinking

 

I'm going to be fixing the rear main seal at the beginning of the year. It's becoming a nuisance to have the oil spots in my garage and driveway.

Questions about replacing the rear main seal:

• What's the "easiest" way to perform this job? Should I look at dropping the transmission?
• Any other seals I should replace while doing this?
• Any other general maintenance?
• Is there a better rear main seal that I should buy or should I just buy from Acura?

Just as a reminder, the car has 160k on it. The transmission was replaced/fixed under the warranty at the dealership at 100k.

 

^
1.- Sadly There is no other way to replace the Rear Seal without dropping the trans.
2.- There aren't any other serviceable seals in that area.
3.- There aren't any specific reasons for a Rear Main seal damage, they just die eventually specially from age.
4.- OEM Should be your only option here for the Rear Seal.


Since the trans will be out you can also replace the Rear Engine Mount on the spot! it will be hassle once everything is plugged in.

 

good shit, skirmich!