Going a little over spec is fine, as Kris said.

But going wayy over spec causes high stress in the hub area that migrates to the contact area. The additional heat stress can then warp it. Also, over torquing the hub area will cause the contact part of the rotor to bend outward slightly. (verrrrrryy slightly, but then again it doesn't take much to feel vibration.)

 

I could see that happening if someone had the rotor off the car, put it back on and there was foreign material between it and the hub (rust, metal or other debris). What do you consider "wayy over spec"?

 

It can happen clean. The hub area has more than enough area to distort from excessive pressure.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107

IMPORTANT!

Proper installation requires that the wheel lug torque be set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. Sometimes these torque specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, however more often than not you will need to refer to your vehicle's shop manual or obtain them from your vehicle dealer/service provider.

Unless specifically stated otherwise, wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.

A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown below) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort

 

so, over tighten by say.. 20 ft/lbs, you think its going to warp things? I know that whaling on lug nuts with an impact gun or really cranking down on them can break studs, Ive just never understood the whole warping rotors side of it by over tightening the lug nuts a little too much.

 

I've had problems with Hondas and their steering wheel shake for many years. For me it was always more noticeable on a tire with a thinner profile. I tried many, many wheel balancings on various Hunter balancers (different locations) and to no TRUE avail. Things would improve, but with a low profile tire there is so much room for feel of the road. At times (NOT ALWAYS) my steering wheel would shake on the freeway with my 19's on, however when I have my winter wheels on with high profile sidewalled tires, the steering wheel is solid as a rock.

Part of this is that the extra rubber pads the vibration you might receive. A tire is actually all over the place if you were to see it in slow motion, the rubber is twisting and turning in every direction like a blob, so the less of this you have between your wheel and the road must have a significant effect.

I'm not disregarding the rotor/caliper situations described above, I am just saying that wasn't the case for my two vehicles, following before and after brake change test scenarios.

 

It is true kuz now im not getting vibration after taking it to the tire shop

 

Just installed new EBC rotors & pads, all is smooth so far.

 

I agree, especially about torquing in stages. I don't think this gets mentioned enough.

 

Even that can do it. Get yourself a torque wrench and make sure things are tightened properly. Especially tightened "Equally" that is probably the biggest reason. One may be 70 one may be 100.

 

That's interesting to know... thanks Kris.

 

I always use a torque wrench..Im just having fun debating with you over this

 

What is the propper torque ? 80lbs??