iluvweed

Hi all new user here, i have a question regarding the title obviously. My question is I just got a trans flush at 131k miles after buying the car used at 121. I didn't know also at the time this is a bad idea. I'm not sure what the mechanic used but it was auto zone brand for sure. So I'm considering the trans flush myself or with his aid ( no tools). I am going with the redline when I can afford it. I am pretty sure I have a newer trans as the bolts are all painted blue. The reason I'm doing this is because after reading these threads my guess right now is that redline is the recommended way to go. I am also doing this because my car has been hesitating recently about a week and it mostly seems to feel "heavy" in front or like its pulling more weight. This primarily happens between 40-50mph and the jerking happens in all gears but mainly when I'm very lightly touching the pedal is it noticeable...you know that point between gas and coast. I don't think its the trans.. I pray it isn't. So I'm a newbie to all this and need to take it one step at a time, I just need the tools lol. But my question now is about the seafoam trans stuff they got? Safe to use with the 3x3 method? Any reason why it would be good? Why not? Thanks so much for all your help, its greatly appreciated.

AZsilverTl

Seafoam is for treating the engine, not transmission.

The only tools you need for transmission flush are a socket (17mm if I remember right, don't quote me on this), a funnel, a bucket an a fluid.

For the transmission fluid, pick up the DW-1 fluid from the local Acura/Honda dealer. 3x3 flush will not hurt it.

To reiterate the first sentence, DO NOT put seafoam in the transmission. It is for cleaning carbon build up in the engine.

01tl4tl

seafoam makes a special `trans tune`- cleaner
its reported to help probs associated with crud like the selenoid screens

on a trans with no issues it should cause no new problems, I plan to use it,, or Motor Purr trans cleaner (tested by buddies shop on many TL with great results)
you MUST do a manual 3x3 or `the accord method` with engine running and hot swap the fluid
have to get all the old fluid out,, plus some extra for good measure
If you already have slipping or other major issue- no amount of cleaner or new fluid will help
I would not use redline at this point,,its shifts harder
the TL should be smooth
You may have a simple thing like clogged egr system - easy diy 2 hours+ $20 stuff

ckd motor mounts? those will cause running probs- being vac boosted~

the last fluid change- when you say flush do you mean a machine hooked into the lines?
or a manual drain and refill 1 or more times?

Use of non honda fluid- specifically Dextron3 found in many trans flush machines- is death to the TL trans

How much time between flush and symptoms?

01tl4tl

regular seafoam also cleans entire fuel system -use 1 can in half tank
gets from gas tank filter sock, thru the lines- splitters- rails and injectors
plus the intake valves and piston tops,,then the O2 sensor and cat !

its not just for carbon on pistons
aerosol form works like wd40,,cleans and lubes multiple items around the house
Even cleans fresh road tar off of paint!!!

gold2003tl (90)

stick with a 3x3 using honda atf DW-1

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Front mount going bad can make it seem like there's some trans issues. With the broken mount it was slower to engage drive and some downshifts seemed to be kinda harsh and grabby. Afterwards D engages quicker and my shifting is definitely less felt.

iluvweed

Thanks everyone for your replies specially 01tl. In response to your questions ( excuse bad grammar I may be pothead but using my phone to respond) the behavior I've been noticing started a few days maybe a week following the flush. I'm in the medical field and know nothing at all about cars. I know where the gas goes, but up until recently (driving such a fun car) I have taken more of an interest. I say this because I don't want anyone to get the idea I know anything about anything lol. So when mechanic tells me something it goes right in the bank without a second look. The car has had other issues like bad bearings that I've been slowly correcting and as I do, it becomes easier to identify other problems. Its a used car I know they will be there, but restoring this car with my limited knowledge of anything is frustrating. So the flush I got was through a machine. He poured a few big containers of auto zone brand fluid into the machine and until I call him I dunno what it was specifically. Knowing him he called auto zone and they told him what to use. Now I read the machine method was harmful and other people have told me that also which is my concern. Following the flush it just seems "heavy at times and not peppy like before, also as i mentioned between 40-50 i notice it most. I put the car in cruise at 50 and same thing, feels like im pulling or hesitating. I dont think its the trans cause i have blue bolts and when the fluid was changed it was black but told specifically it didnt smell burnt. I have done a seafoam treatment twice cleaned the tb mouth and throttle cables which makes things smoother but also helps identify this hesitation more easily.. Mechanic checked two plugs and told me based off those two the others were probably fine. I don't get slips I dont think... rpm gauge doesn't bump everywhere or anything. VCS and abs light on since I bought it with no codes to read. I want to try the egr cleaning since my tires are from 2007 and can assume the rest of the regular maintainence follows this pattern of neglect. Do you know though if I did the 3x3 ( still need to buy tools for all this stuff) when would I apply the seafoam trans formula during this "flush"? With a rebuilt (blue bolts no oil jet) trans is this necessary? Like I said I don't think tranny since the only constant to this "hesitation" is me applying light even pressure to accelerator, despite gear or speed. When I break 60 its generally pretty smooth. My problem tho is I dont even know what I'm looking for or listening for. Let's put it this way, when I first had vtec kick in I thought I broke my car, that's my level of ignorance lol. So any responses that can be watered down would be very appreciated. I'm very excited about learning more about my awesome car and finally learning how to do my own oils and fluids like a real man. Thanks again for all ur help, specially 01tl I've read damn near all ur posts here ur like a legend, you tell me my gas tank needs sugar I ask which kind is best.

Stephen00TL

These cars should not be hooked up to a machine for transmission flush. It tears them apart, that's the reason we do the 1x3 or the 3x3 flush. It takes longer but is better for the transmission. If he hooked it up to a machine it could be the start to many problems. These transmission are very fragile!!

01tl4tl

he may owe you a trans rebuild,,especially if Dextron3 was used
thats an absolute trans killer-

hopefully he asked for some `acura compatible` atf,,many are listed that way, but
honda DW1 fluid works way better

take it to a big name trans place and let them test drive

Important !! clear those warning lights and hidden codes the autozone reader may not have found- by removing the CLOCK fuse from passenger end of dash for a minute

do the egr cleaning of intake manifold

if you choose to run seafoam trans tune- add it- then drive 200 miles/ a week
Do a 3x3 or `accord method` full fluid change-out

In this case, lets find out whats else may be wrong before trying cleaner

iluvweed

Hey thanks so much for your quick replies. I'm going to do as you suggest and take the car to a trans place and go from there. I asked the mechanic and he couldn't tell me specifically what he used, just kept telling me it was for Hondas. So I'm going to just get rid of it for piece if mind, it sucks , its way more loot than I'll have for a couple weeks. Specially since I paid so much for the flush. As far as the codes go, like I said they've been there since day one and can't seem to reset em. The triangle and VCS, abs,SRS, all of em (cept check engine). You know that chime you get when u first turn on the car for abs? I don't get that. The car was very custom when I bought it and the dealer told me the lights won't go away with all the "modifications". So I didn't question too much, but maybe abs has something to do with it I'm not sure. I put in octane booster still full of 93 with lil effect. It seems everything I do just brings out the clarity of the stutter. I can replicate it tho. It seems specially between 40-50 after I hit the gas lightly I feel it but then I push a little more and there it is rumble under the gas pedal and that stuttery feeling. If I go faster it goes away. I feel it creeping up on me under 40 but that's if I'm driving slower ( behind everyone else at a red light turned green). So I'm hoping a mount cause the front one has visible fluid on it, probably comming out. Also, I should be able to get enough money to get tools this weekend to try the egr... I dunno hopefully the trans guy won't tell me something crazy, I love this car. Thanks again for the help and taking time to listen.

01tl4tl

the trans guy is bs'ing you big time!!
he has a receipt from the place he purchased the fluid
probably used some `ok for all honda` crud that isnt helping at all
HE OWES YOU for the improper fluid used by doing it over with correctly performed BY THE BOOK 3x3
or smarter for you is a refund and go buy the honda dw1 at dealer
How much did you pay for this `service`??

look in Regions link at top of page for ziners in your area to help diy

fluid coming from the front mount means totally blown,, is THE first priority
makes engine run funny with an open vac leak!

ck Vendor list at top of page for dealers who sponsor this site and give us a break
make a few calls,,retail on the mount is ~150$ ! so 30-40 bucks off is a big deal
get the oe mount and enjoy a smooth car when things are finished

from now on= never do any work before consulting our diy section

reset ECU to clear codes by removing the CLOCK fuse, its inside the cover located on passenger end of dash- open front door to access
remove for a minute,,its the secret backup power to the ecu! and reinsert fully

if the lights stay on now, serious digging is required on all the past mods
Is the car lowered? does cruise control work? ever tested the abs?

iluvweed

Hey thanks again for your reply, it feels good knowing I don't hafta do all this alone.. As far as the mods go. What I know is that there is a apex cai and a cat back apex exhaust. The fog lights are gone with a electrical wire hanging out on driver side can't find passenger wiring. Not lowered but has ground effects and aftermarket rims/low pros (replaced front tires for 400). The brakes are red. And was told by dealer they are custom and because of this, it effects the abs and VCS light. When I brake hard tho I get substantial stuttering. I don't know how to test abs. I had the check engine light checked by mechanic when I got the car he said no codes, dummy light and its never been on since ( he turned it off). I don't know about anything else done to car but can imagine the way it was taken care of ( inside is mint) it had to have been taken care of at some point. Your right about mechanic I'm sure he fucked me but I can't imagine getting anything out of him. I'll have to fix this myself or atleast get his help with 3x3. Just broke as hell and I mean broke broke. The flush was 150 and had oil change too for 200 together. Wife getting major pissed I'm spending so much loot we really don't have. Hell I made the rent late getting the flush. So anything I do now has to be cheap cheap and even then will be argument with wife. What would u suggest my priority is? I mean I drive over 100 miles to and from work (mostly highway) so for 3 hrs a day I feel this problem making me nutty and getting what I assume to be worse...seems to be better on colder days tho. Maybe 3x1 once a week? My budget may be able to handle that, as it is I'm thinking of excuses why I need the tools for the egr I'm going to try this week and now ur saying the mount is critical also. Some people have been saying I need to break in the new fluid but I dunno. Ya also, the lights all come back after the fuse pull. Ive tried rubbing bat connectors and leaving overnight same with fuses nothing, they never go away. Sometimes i feel the abs (i think abs...) after I start up, grind under the wheel well. That's rare though, very rare. Just as rare as when I occasionally start up, the VCS light won't be on and the VCS button when pressed, will bring up the exclamation point light...but after a few seconds all lights come back and the vcs button has no effect as usual. Those are rare though just happened a few times. I know this car prolly has an ass load of issues. My hopes are that they're aren't so bad they're not worth fixing. The cruise works no problem. I used that to test the stuttering to see if it was me just driving like asshole and when car at steady cruise speed I get the rumbles, usually under 60mph. But in all gears I get this stutter as long as its steady acceleration (maintaining a constant speed). So considering my driving you think the mount is the critical thing here? Cause if so I'll have replaced this weekend somehow and check the regions page for help. That trans scares me tho considering the daily mileage and my inability to afford a fix, and I think getting worse. Thanks again for your input, should let me buy u a beer or somethin.

03tl-s04mdx

This sounds a lot like the rumble strip/shudder that is prevalent in MDXes with torque converter issues. Do you drive in D5? If so try driving in D4 around town (don't switch to D5 unless going over 45-50 mph for sustained periods of time) and see if it helps with the "stutter". Check out this thread for more info:

http://www.mdxers.org/forums/58-tran...re-thread.html

iluvweed

I've heard that and tried Dr tranny shudder fix with no effect... I do drive d5 tho as I never ss. I will try d4 and see if that helps, though 99% of my driving is 50 and over.

01tl4tl

cat/exhaust-- you may need to install $10 spark plug anti fouler on the O2 sensor to reduce flow rate closer to stock..causes many problems

your stutter is probably 2 things, wrong fluid screwing with trans, and motor mount causing vac leak

do NOT try to `break in` the new atf,,the whole point of the 3x3 was if you ever added any amount of dextron3 by accident or emergency,,it must be removed plus some!!
Some here use it to change out all the fluid as maitenance

for getting old stuff out you drain and refill once,
drive 15 minutes- drain and refill another 3 qts - thats all it will give up of the 7.3 at one time- the rest trapped and must be moved by using trans
Drive MAX 5 minutes using each and every gear up and down 3-5 times
drain and refill
drive 5 min max -shifting--drain and refill
3 qts 3 times = 3x3
but it really holds more than that,,average draining 3 to 3.4 qts
so cking the fluid level from cold- drive 15 minutes on freeway
exit and park on safe level ground
trans in Park Engine OFF
wipe stick and insert fully
remove and read level - NEEDS TO BE BETWEEN THE DOTS
not at low or max--somewhere in the middle is good
wrong level will cause shift problems

register your car with acura and download free owner book www.owners.acura.com and 1 800 382 2238x5 need Vin for both

Red brake pad back- probably EBC Red Stuffs- a good multi use aggressive braker pad.- used by many here
does NOT cause warning light problems

ABS- speed sensors ok because cruise works--so ABS should also work
try it at 45mph- stomp the pedal as if your life depended on it
pedal will pulse very rapidly beneath your foot- do this on gravel or water -new tires have lots of grip,,swerve wheel back and forth if you have too,,thats when its really supposed to be working- as if braking and turning to avoid a stopped semi truck--on ice!~

TCS or VSA or similar button on dash- turns system OFF and turns dash yellow light ON


was this a used car dealer--he certainly was full of salesmanship
if your state has inspections--or RULES of any kind--a dash full of warning lights is not ok
you cant even start a test in most states with any warning lights on

You tried the clock fuse and the batt cable methods,lights came back on how soon?
have to have codes read again,,most parts stores do it for free
(offer not valid in California)

01tl4tl

when in traffic in that 45-50mph range use D4, so it doesnt hunt for 5th constantly

try shifting up in SS,,any changes?

TLer trash

Your original complaint of jerking under light throttle conditions is a classic spark plug symptom. Coils are more common on these cars, but typically start out showing symptoms under heavier acceleration. NGK iridiums have proven to be the best choice for replacement plugs.

iluvweed

Symptoms:The first real symptom was a "driving over the rumble strip on the side of the highway" kind of vibration when you had been traveling fast enough (>45mph) to be in 5th gear and then you would slow down for, say, an approach to a red light. Then say the red light turns green before you come to a complete stop so the tranny is still in 5th and you slowly apply throttle, almost "lugging" the engine. Instead of downshifting it would cause that strange vibration, because the torque converter wasn't unlocking correctly. This sort of sounds like me only the rumble strip feeling is more like the lugging or pulling feel, like I'm sputtering or running out of gas. the problem dosent seem to be linked to any one circumstance, happens most of the time when i apply that even pressure. I could make a vid but theres not much to see i dont think, its mainly the feel. I tried Dr tranny shudder fix with no effect. It just feels to me ( I know 0) that the engine isn't getting the fuel evenly and in spurts or something... I will look into the tc possibility but in the end comes down to new trans

iluvweed

Thanks for taking the time to help me out, i dunno what I'm looking for as far as worn plugs so I'll just replace them all and pray for best and do the 3x3 quickly and that mount. I will test abs on way home and see what happens. I can take a pic of engine so u can see what I'm working with. Ya the dealer is scum I know this but liked the car lol. He still has it listed 5 months later to attract new victims. I'm in Tampa and not sure of the rules here as far as laws go. I did force him to fix headlight that was blown and his response was to replace both with regular lights and get rid of hid. I will try and see what I can do about the egr and tranny this week the mount may have to wait, my damn bills going to be way passed due if I do any more.

iluvweed

Also when u asked about shifting up in as and about changes what do u mean? Cause if I force the shift it shifts to what I assume to be fine. I don't think shifting is an issue, its not butter smooth but I'm not shitting myself in fear every shift. The only time I notice anything bad is that damn hiccupy type acceleration. Let's say I'm in 3rd and I'm going 40 (revs up to 4k) it will sound high like it needs to be shifted however no change in car performance UNLESS I apply even uniform pressure on gas at a certain unchanging level of the gas pedal being pushed. Once I cross that threshold it just goes faster over the "sputter feeling' despite 3rd gear or any gear.

iluvweed

To clarify on last statement I meant to illustrate the fact that it feels as if the car is "fed" more gas it just kinda "flies" over the sputter. Also, when you asked how long it takes lights to come back its instant, car starts with them on they're always there.

iluvweed

Sorry to keep blowing up this thread, just have lots of questions... :/ I was also curious what you guys thought about the d4 driving under 50? Cause I'm going to try that and let's say the problem persists? Does this mean its not a tranny issue?

TLer trash

^^^This sounds more like trans shudder. I interpreted your "jerking" differently. Spark plug symptoms are typically more subtle. Two engineering terms that describe the symptoms well are "trailer hitching" and "fishbite". I've had success with the shudder fixx, but I think you should at least try a change or two with honda fluid. I've run into a couple hondas that shuddered with generic fluid plus lubegard black hfm and shudder fixx that were fine with oe fluid.

iluvweed

Hey thanks tl for replying. Im guessing ur right but hoping ur wrong lol. I have Fri and sat off so I will try 3x3 then and see what happens. This all started after that flush... the fluid at the very least I think needs to get out of that trans like now. Already put almost 1k miles on it with it in there. I think the best news I have going for me is that its blue bolts trans with no jet so hasta be newer trans. The fluid was dark but told no burn smell. Also the rpms don't go crazy like I see in most vids and shifting for most part is normal. Just when I hit 45-50 like clockwork. The mount makes a lot of sense to me but I'm under the impression at this point fluid needs changed out cause its only getting noticeably worse

01tl4tl

when are you going to get your money back for the wrong fluid in trans?

01tl4tl

D4 in traffic below 50 keeps the trans from constantly trying to go into overdrive
shifting shifting shifting with every small speed change
d4 keeps it in the regular gears,,does not mean anything else about trans probs or not
just a way to prevent or reduce some shake feelings
process of elimination

motor movement = trans unit movement= axles/cv bearing move at different angle than designed and made for = noise and excess wear on them and the hub bearings too !

iluvweed

Well I don't think I'm going to hassle him for the loot. I may get more flies with honey approach. Specially since its a small mom and pop place and he always "helps" me out on a whim. Really my recourse is small anyway since I can't prove anything and rather just fix the problem instead of pointing fingers for next three weeks. I tried d4 last night on way home with somewhat smoother drive but coincidentally couldn't replicate the problem with the ease I'm used to and couldn't confirm the problem in d4. Its all highway driving for me anyway, so I'm rarely going under 50. You mention the bearings and ya they were shot pretty bad when I bought the car and had them replaced. Its not out of the question that all that movement is making me think the trans, but there has been a few slips I've noticed at higher speeds, 80 or so its rare but probably that fluid your talking about that's in there. But I can't afford a trans I put 4k down on car and immediately needed 1k for repairs so u can see why I'm shitting myself in fear over trans. That was student loan money I sacrificed for a "dependable" car for work. I've always bought new american cars leading up to this and was talked into a Honda by friends so dunno what to expect other than "reliability". I bought this car knowing some punk kid prolly tweaked and beat this thing to shit. I know I'm not buying a new car, its just that trans man. I don't need the car new or anything what I need is someone to drive it and tell me not trans problem so I can sleep lol. Anything but the trans I'm fine. I don't want a failure or worse yet stuck with repeating problem from hell putting me further in debt. I will figure something out in what I believe to be order of importance. I will buy tools tomorrow, and do egr clean. While I do this I will start 3x3, because that shit needs out now. Then in two weeks I should have enough to do mount and plugs. Its just a money issue and I keep throwing money at it not knowing problem talking to bad mechanics and now I'm deeply in the hole. But that's my plan, if u have any better ideas I'm all ears lol.

01tl4tl

do the 3x3 by the book,,I detailed it before
drain it once while cold.-makes it easier to get the filler and drain plugs out too
then 15 minute warmup drive
drain yadayada

iluvweed

Well last couple days I tried the flush (fucked up on last drain and had to go back for 3 more) expensive stuff but well worth it. I drove around maybe 20 miles with seafoam in the trans fluid and wow what a difference. The seafoam gave me softer silky shifts within a few miles. The dw1 has been pure magic. I didn't notice shifting in the past so much but after even one 3x1 noticed a BIG change. I don't even notice shifting anymore. The car has never felt this nice. I tried egr clearing but feel I require more reading as I only cleaned the top plate that has the little path under it for the egr flow. I lost one of those bolts that screw on the top right ( one of two) and will stop soon for replacement and I didn't torque the remaining ten bolts just put them in snug ( I need a torque wrench) and cleaned the top manifold gasket? I cleaned that lil reservoir looking thing next to tb and the shot a lil bit of deep creel into 6 egr holes. I read now I pretty much only cleaned 25% of the egr ( failure to remove complete manifold) as I do not know where or what the egr valve looks like. I will torque the bolts tonight as I know that's important and this Fri clean the egr properly. However just between those two tasks my driving is 100% better in every regard. The hiccupy type acceleration most prominent between 40-60 is gone. I think I still feel "phantom" hesitation either in my mind or maybe concern I don't know. A mechanic drove it and said to him tranny is fine with no issues. He said he feels what he thinks I am, and said he feels the car going into lower gear at that speed and said it feels like its pulling a little but said its normal and that my shit mount is making me feel it more than I should. So my mount is probably the key. I need to one by one restore these problems from a neglected car, getting closer and closer to finally being able to stick in a bitchin sound system finaaaallly. I wanted to thank you guys for all your help it means a lot to me that you would share such valuable information. Specially 01tl couldn't of done it without you, I'm in your debt man thx again.

01tl4tl

glad to be of assistance

egr cleaning of manifold= requires a wire coat hanger or similar to poke thru the long passage inside manifold,,
the egr valve is at passenger end of manifold and must be removed to fully clean system -from the 2 holes under it that allow the gas to move thru,,to the far end of manifold

clean and lube egr valve too

the front mount is messing you up now,,vacuum leak causes jerkiness
ck our vendor list for dealers who support azine and cut us a good price break

good to hear a positive result with seafoam trans tune
my trans guru buddy says to drive up to 200 miles with it then change all the atf
plus change your external filter as it will have a lot of crud captured!

Nicks2001tl

Transtune was used in my car with 120,000 miles on it. I drove only 25 miles because of all the negative things I have read about these trannys.

Transtune+Flush+Transmission filter=Better shifting transmission. I will do again in spring by then I should actually good at it, and drive the full 200 miles.

01tl4tl my thread was your 30,000 post. Congratulations!

If your ever in Wisconsin I will buy you a block of cheddar. Enjoy!

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Where in WI are you??

iluvweed

So I tried torque wrench and snapped a bolt. Its my first time with a torque wrench and guna need more practice. The bolt is on that top plate with the ten bolts. The very top plate. I did it at work like a moron and need to get back home 50 miles should I be OK?

3.2TLc

Hey man, one toke over the line....broke one bolt out of ten, yeah you'll be ok !

The other bolts will hold things in place. If you decide to pull the plate off again, a pair of vice grips should be able to remove the remaining part of that broken bolt.

Take a deep breath, it'll be ok !!!!

iluvweed

Whew man thx, I dunno if it was in my head but seemed to drive funny/loud lol but ya one toke too many for sure. Any idea how much a bolt is at dealership?

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Order an outlaw thermal gasket set. Comes with new bolts for intake manifold and throttle body plus the gaskets.

Nicks2001tl

New Berlin, Do you have a guy that knows acuras? repairs etc..

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

I've done all my own work so far. Haven't looked for anyone yet cause its all gone pretty smoothly so far.

Nicks2001tl

I have done everything my self also since buying this car, with the exception of timing belt. But getting very busy at work and looking for someone who has experience with this vehicle. Other than Schlossmans maybe a local mechanic.

Right now looking at engine mounts and have the tools just not the time and there is a chill in the air.

Can motor mounts wait till spring for Diy? They seem to be needing it sooner than later. No visible or physical oil leaking. All mounts have frayed edges.

01tl4tl

the front mount used to contain oil till it all leaked out!
traces of a trail under it?

spark plugs= remove a front and take to the parts store for inspection
the right ones are 8 bucks each!

dont wait if that front mount has been diagnosed for sure as failed
the vac leak messes the car up
plus the wear created on cv bearings and more- as the assembly shifts angles constantly
every time you get on or off the gas,,it moves again
all that puts extra load on the passenger side mount,,a normal rubber kind = it fails
keep driving it like that and the rear mount--also 150$ like the front- fails

finally the 2 trans mounts go and the entire eng/trans unit departs its mounting location

look in Regions link at top of pages here,,find local ziners to give you a hand