Replacing Radiator - What else should I do?
Replacing Radiator - What else should I do?
2002 TL-S with 260k miles. I'm replacing the radiator due to a leaking top tank. Also replacing the upper and lower hoses since they are so difficult to get to.
What other items should be replaced while I have the access and am waiting for the radiator to be delivered? Are there any items that are known to be issues and should be pre-emptively replaced?
What other items should be replaced while I have the access and am waiting for the radiator to be delivered? Are there any items that are known to be issues and should be pre-emptively replaced?
Yeah, do everything Victus1 has advised..... and all will be well, if the damage hasn't already been done due to the leak and overheating. Make sure that you flush the coolant system and use a quality coolant specific formula compatible to aluminum. Get the Honda 2 stage T-stat and replace the hose clamps. Check the fans and burp the system of air.
Thanks for the feedback. I did do the hoses along with the radiator and cap, but not the sensor. Are you referring to the sensor in the radiator bottom tank?
I don't believe the radiator was run dry or the engine overheated - for having 253,xxx miles it runs like a champ.
I don't believe the radiator was run dry or the engine overheated - for having 253,xxx miles it runs like a champ.
I had to look in the Service Manual to answer your question. That sensor at the bottom of the rad is called the Radiator Fan Switch "C" (pg. 10-3, 10-34).
The ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor) is located behind the thermostat housing. The PCM uses the ECT to control shifting of the transmission and to determine the amount of injected fuel. So it’s a good idea to replace it as it's a thermistor that degrades its output resistance with age. Actually, after looking up this info for you, I have decided to replace it on my TL.
Pg. 11-93 of the Service Manual shows the various sensors used by the ECM to manage fuel and the performance of the engine/trans. I can imagine that some folks who report performance problems that are difficult to diagnose could be related to the degradation of these sensors which output slightly-off voltages to the ECM. And if no error codes are thrown by the ECM, good luck trying to diagnose your problem if you don't even consider checking all these various sensors.
Last edited by victus1; May 26, 2013 at 09:29 AM.
Follow up... make sure you bleed the air from the system by running at 2000 rpm for 5-10 minutes with the radiator cap off. I didn't and the engine would occasionally die at a stop.
Looks like all the high points have been covered but just in case there may be some one that doesn't know if your using antifreeze that is not pre-mixed with water do not use water from your garden hose the chlorine and other chemicals that are it the water can cause real problems in the engine.
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I was browsing a parts listing the other day, and noticed there's a cushion on both the bottom and top of the radiator mounting locations. Has anyone changed these out when replacing the radiator? Seems like they could get old and hardened with age.
Also noticed Amazon sells an OEM Denso radiator for our cars at less than $100. Anyone care to comment on getting their replacement from Amazon?
Also noticed Amazon sells an OEM Denso radiator for our cars at less than $100. Anyone care to comment on getting their replacement from Amazon?
Hey RJheiss, as Justnspace said "Denso" is an OEM supplier and a reputable brand. I've personally always had good luck with any Amazon purchases. $100 is really a good price on the rad. Check the S & H charges and compare total locally.
Ya may also want to consider U & L hoses and a new T-stat while you're in there.
Ya may also want to consider U & L hoses and a new T-stat while you're in there.
Hey RJheiss, as Justnspace said "Denso" is an OEM supplier and a reputable brand. I've personally always had good luck with any Amazon purchases. $100 is really a good price on the rad. Check the S & H charges and compare total locally.
Ya may also want to consider U & L hoses and a new T-stat while you're in there.
Ya may also want to consider U & L hoses and a new T-stat while you're in there.
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