this is for 2001 TL - tried to replace rear engine mount but gave up. space is too tight and unable to apply the torque through extension\swivel to unbolt.

thinking about to get an compact electric impact wrench with max torque up to 200 ft lbs to squeez in to unbolt. (I can get a set of impact wrench + impact socket + impact extension for around $70 from HFT). is it powerful enough ? is it ok ? I have never used an impact wrench other than watching it on NASCAR race.

If I have to have any shop to do it - my Acura dealer quotes 3 1/2 hours labor ($400) - any Honda dealer should be able to do it ? or transmission shop ? how much do you think it's reasonable charge.

I replaced front and side engine mounts DIY and feel great about it but the downsides is that the rear enging mount now appears weak.

thanks for any advice; have a nice weekend.

 

It's very easy if you have the right TOOLS and procedure. I did it in 1.5 hours my first time on my driveway. The only mounts I ever did before were the front & side mounts. Now I can replace the rear mount in under an hour.

Just follow the DIY I wrote and note the specific tools I used:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...r+engine+mount

 

The secret is to use a low profile ratchet and put a pipe on it for leverage when you're under the car. One of the bolts, you will only be able to loosen it by 1 or 2 ratchet clicks at a time. Keep the ratchet ON the bolt, move the ratchet handle clockwise as far as it will go AND spin the socket clockwise with your hand as far as it will go...usually 1 or 2 clicks (you are pre-loading it). Now move the socket handle counterclockwise to loosen 1 or 2 clicks. Just repeat this several times until the bolt is loose enough so you can put a 14mm ratcheting wrench on it (very important!). Then remove the socket, and use a 14mm ratcheting wrench to remove the bolt much QUICKER.

Like I said....proper tools and procedure makes it a piece of cake.

 

thanks for the great DIY with pic.

could someone add this DIY into G2 TL DIY Thread (There are 2 DIY there but covers no rear mount)?

I will try.

 

Yeah, Victus1 has got ya on the right track.....with his "DIY" and proper tools, ya can do it and save yourself some bucks towards the next job ! Did you get the vac assist hydraulic or the solid poly for the rear mount ? Good luck !!!!!

 

yes. Victus1's DIY is spot on all the details. I am half way there and will put new mount in - luckily I have another TL to drive while this one sits in the garage with the engine on a pile of wood block.


I got Becker Arley Hydraulic + vac to match the type/brand I replaced for the front.

 

See, it's not a tough job. Glad to hear you tackled it yourself. Save the money and put it into another project.

 

yes, I got it done last night ! thanks for your DIY.
It is tough !. afterwards I even think the quotes from my Acura dealer of $400 labor is not that ridiculous as I am sure their technician will do it their way (conventional), not the way Ziner does it !

 

Glad you did it. What did you find difficult...removing bolts on the bracket?

 

Saving the $400 was the motivating factor ! A few good tools along with experienced "Ziner" tips makes everything possible. You now have the pride and satisfaction of completing a tougher DIY, preparing yourself for the next challenge. Good job !

 

removing the 2nd and 3rd bolts (seen from the bottom) is difficult but managable. I didn't have the thin head reversible wrench you suggested, but I had three (short, medium and deep) of 14mm socket and I did both bolts from the engine apartment. started with deep socket and with bolt come out more and more switch to shorter one.

I tripped one bolt when removing the mount (the left rear bolt). this costed me some time. in the end, I used one crowfoot wrench and the wobble extension got the damaged bolt out.

I had hard time to line up (or close the gap) for the bottom (17mm) bolt when installing back. so I had to tighten the 2nd bolt (14mm) all the way first (this, with the top bolt, basically secure the position of the bracket).

oh yah. maybe I will use this $400 to do the timing belt special from NJ Hamilton Honda for my 2005 MDX.

how about this deal:

$389 Honda Timing Belt Replacement
Special

Reg. $549.98

 

"I did both bolts from the engine apartment."

Ahh yes, it's a killer to do it from the top. I removed both of these from under the car. As soon as they loosened slightly with the ratchet, I slapped on the ratcheting-wrench and whizzed them out in no time.


"I had hard time to line up (or close the gap) for the bottom (17mm) bolt when installing back."

Using the jack to move the engine slightly helps in lining things up.

Congrats for tackling this job!

 

IT's a hour job at best for anyone that's done it. $400.00 at Acrua=Figures! I paid a local mechanic $80.00 to do it. I had tried doing it myself. Just too hard to get the engine supported and into the tight spaces. Worth paying someone to do it in my opinion.

 

What you have is a competent mechanic with all the right tools. I don't know any mechanic who will admit this to be a one hour job. I wish I had a mechanic like that!

 

I would definitely go to the mechanic if I could find one willing to do it for $80.

anyway, bad news : the new rear engine mount I installed doesn't hold vaccum. I have to use rubber vaccum cap to close that branch end so at least the vaccum control works for the front. I didn't test the new mount before installation as I didn't have a vaccum tester until I bought one from HFT in brake fluid bleeder kit. I don't know whether the mount itself or the rubber tube not tightly inserted; it seems impossible to take out the tube from the bottom of mount and insert a new one. but I am tired so I just leave it as that for now.

with Sandy come to town, I don't need to commute to the NYC next few days so I may bring the car to a tranmission shop nearby to get some prof help, providing they are open for business and there is no power outage .....

be safe !

 

There's a solenoid valve which controls the vacuum assist for the mounts. This valve gets a signal from the PCM to activate it, providing the vacuum application as necessary.

Assuming that the valve is functioning properly, it could be as simple as replacing the vac hose to the mount. Otherwise, check the mount's fitting for the vac.

 

Yeah, it could be the rubber hose or the metal line to the hose has a hole somewhere.

 

I was trying to find this thread because after replacing the front mount the rear is also bad and need to be replaced.

A diy sticky would be nice.

 

Nick that rear is a beast. If u want a hand I'd be willing to help. On vacation a while so just let me know.