dan lazer

so im lookin under the hood today and i seen that only 1 fan was kickin on----also there 2 different fans in there----1 fan has 5 blades and the other has 4 blades----and it looks like there different motors too !!!!!!

WHY WUD 1 FAN KICK ON AND NOT THE OTHER ????

is there fuses for these or what ?????

THANKS GUYS----THIS SITE HAS HELPED ME SO MUCH !!!!

01tl4tl

the driver sider fan is the primary engine cooling fan and should come on and off as it sits at idle

the passenger side one is tied to be ON with AC so it pulls air thru its `radiator` and the engines radiator--makes systems operate better

if the driver side fan ever stays on more than a few minutes after shutdown, or doesnt come on at all, ck the coolant temp sensor- located pass lower corner rad, or at thermostat on certain years (99)

dan lazer

ok thanks alot man----god u know it all huh buddy !!!!!

THANKS AGAIN---I APPRECIATE IT

junteschan

Your driver side fan motor brushes are worn out.
Replace the motor and it should run fine once again.
I purchased mine from ebay as they were much cheaper.
Hope that solves it.

dan lazer

what is the fan motor brushes---and how wud they get worn out

my fan kicks on and off every few mins when sitting at idle like 01tl4tl said !!!!

so what r ya talkin about man ???? just wondering

01tl4tl

the moving parts inside the fan motor wear out--thats just life
try wikipedia to learn about car parts operation

with the amount of hours the main fan might be in use over 10 years,--heavy commute traffic etc,
not surprising to have one fail

every few minutes seems a bit often for it to cycle:
ck your fluid level and condition- if over 5 years on coolant = replace it!
ck rad cap- have parts store test for you or just replace for 10 bucks
a weak seal changes the whole system operation

01tl4tl

everything specific to the TL, was learned right here on azine
So you can know everything I do!!!
other general mechanical is from a lifetime of being around it

dan lazer

wow---i'll definetley look into the whole system now

who know if the coolant was ever replaced--i got it from alabama 2 yrs ago now---but i always wanted to do a coolant flush--i just always forgot to do it

thanks guys

totaledTL

Actually, the brushes don't move- but wear from contact with a moving part, and arcing... -> [open door for fries to comment/correct...]

99AcuraTLDave

greetings all. my prob sounds similar.
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replaced radiator with aftermarket from partsgeek or auto warehouse in August. replaced top hose also


Thurs: battery dead. i replaced with new battery; leveled all fluids (Honda coolant); ran engine to air out coolant (not a bleed or burp as i've read)

temp gauge maxed out from driving once around the block.

engine compartment, nor hood does not appear physically overheated beyond normal operating temp

burning coolant smell and smoke rising from driver side radiator behind the fan. (am wishfully thinking that it's just from spillage while running car with cap off to air it out).

fan appears to run only when veh turned off

also, tranny on it's death bed. must feather it into 1st, 2nd and 3rd. has been gradually worsening for the past 3 years. i've scheduled to replace it in mid April.
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3day old problem so far. have not dared to drive more than 10 minutes at a time without long rest period. can't do 40 min drive to work on monday like this. much user friendly help needed.

from threads i've read thus far, i'm prepared to:

replace coolant temp sensor
replace fan motor
replace radiator
replace ignition switch (kind of unsure based on arguments in thread about this one)

any advice?

spiro

Start here;
bleed or burp as i've read.

01tl4tl

definetly burp it- cap off- engine running- heater on HOT!! or it traps a bunch of air

2000 rpm till fan cycles on and off--idle till fan cycles twice-2000 rpm fan---idle again till fan cycles...top off rad as needed during this

put rad cap on and stop engine- let cool overnight and ck levels-
top off rad (bottem of filler neck)
and res bottle at cold level- plus its hose inside res cap is attached firmly

then suspect thermostat is stuck closed so engine fluid never reached rad to be cooled
Very Likely based on fast temp rise

rad fan-driver side should run on and off sitting at idle several minutes
It should run a few minutes after shutdown then go off
if its running more than that - ck fan temp sensor

not running at all- ck power to fan and motor actually spins by hand- they do wear out

have rad cap pressure tested- inspect rubber seal,,10 years is a long time for one to last,, for 10 bucks~

01tl4tl

parts store will pressure test the cap for free

Im thinking burp may be your main prob-as you only let it sit and run,,,,needs heater open- #1 priority to doing it correctly..and the rpm use to make thermostat open and system running
do a search for my post and `burping procedure`--I copied it from the book and posted a few years back
or access your year owner book on acura.com owner section