pzhoward

'99 Acura TL 119K miles

A few weeks ago, I started my car and the rpms were fluctuating between 1000 and 2000 rpms. It would go back and forth... back and forth. I put the car in drive and it was driveable, however the idle was way high. It normally idles at about 750 and instead it was idling at 1000 (while in drive). Once i got to my destination, about an hour later i cranked it again and it ran normal - no fluctuations.

A few days later, i cranked it and it idled at about 250 rpms.... way too low this time and felt like it was stuttering but stayed cranked. I drove to my destination and about an hour later cranked it again and this time it would not start. It would turn over but not crank up. I figured out that, if i held the gas pedal down... it would crank up but as soon as i let off the gas pedal it would shut off. It did this over and over again. Since my mechanic is not that far away from where i live, i decided i would give it a try and try to drive it to them. I had to keep the gas pedal down at all times (even at stop signs and red lights) to keep the car running. By the time i arrived at the mechanic, which was about 5 minutes away, the car was running fine. Meaning, when i let my foot off the gas pedal, it continued to run like it is supposed to instead of shutting off. They cleaned "something" that had a lot of carbon build up. About two days later it did the same thing.... starting at a low idle and not wanting to stay running if i let off the gas pedal. A week went by with no further incidents and then it happened again. It seems that each time (so far) it eventually straightens itself out. What's going on!? Is it an idle valve.... air intake valve... altenator....sensor....?

01tl4tl

Clean the IAC Idle Air Control Valve
You could have EGR port builup of carbon
Spray clean the Throttle Body Butterfly Valve

burnerjunky

can you clean the idle control valve with throttle body cleaner? also, will cleaning any of these things possibly foul the mass air flow sensor?

01tl4tl

The throttle body is the mass airflow sensor on a TL
and the butterfly plate inside -activated by the throttle cables, is cleanable with TB spray
Carbon buildup there is bad
The IAC is on the bottem of the TB assembly- TB cleaner approved for this part too
You wont hurt anything cleaning it, the TB spray is more gentle than carb spray
Run Seafoam thru the intake manifild vaccum line and that will bust carbon loose, then you drive to burn it out
With that done you can check the plugs for an indication of whats going on

burnerjunky

can i use the origional gaskets or do i have to get new ones.

fsttyms1

There is NO mas air flow sensor on the TL. Do a search for IAC valve cleaning. You just use carb cleaner. Take it off the TB and clean it properly. No you can reuse the stock gasket on the IAC. Dont take the TB off or you will need a new gasket.

burnerjunky

il just wait until i get a spacer kit to do this then

fsttyms1

Why???????? Its not hard to do with the TB attached. Its just 2 screws that hold it on.

pzhoward

Hi... it's me again. I originally started this post. First off, let me say thanks to everyone that offered some great advice. To clarify what has been done: in the first post, I mentioned that I took my car to my mechanic and they cleaned "something". That something was the throttle body. What they used or how efficiently they cleaned it... i don't know. Since having it cleaned... the problem has re-occured twice; about 2 days after having it cleaned and again 7 days later. Should I take it back and have them clean it again, including the EGR port AND the IAC valve? Or should I just get the IAC valve replaced?

fsttyms1

I would just clean the IAC myself and save money. There are just 2 philips screws that hold it on. Take it off and get a can of carb cleaner and a old or small cheap cleaning brush. Spray some into the valve and clean it with your brush. Make sure every thing is clean and debris free. After its all clean and dry, just give it a quick hit of wd40, not a soaking but a little spray to just help lubricate it.

pzhoward

fsttyms1,

Are you happy you talked a girl in to doing this herself? If i screw up, it's all your fault! ;-)

fsttyms1

Yes. Yes i am. I would really like girs/women to know their way around a car. Its much safer, and they are less likely to be taken advantage of. If you have problems we will try to help you out as best as we possibly can!!!

2K3_TLs

ooo go fsstymes1!

lol, so thats all there is to the IAC, two phillips screws? no gaskets to go and buy to reattach it right? i might end up doing it tomorrow, if time permits.

3.2TLc

That's it ! Easy enough to do with satisfying results, unless you happen to drop a screw..........! OOP's

fsttyms1

Thats it. unplug it, unscrew it clean it, reposition the gasket reattach it.

pzhoward

ok.... my last post before i venture out in to the unknown. These are my intentions:
Seafoam the IACV and Throttle Body due to the intermittent low rpm idling issue (although, it hasn't done it in a week now). Change my own oil and filter using Mobil 1 Synthetic or Penzoil Fully Sythetic somethingoranother.... and what ever type of oil filter you recommend. Most likely the first time using a synthetic oil since I've always gone to a mechanic garage (not Superlube) to get it changed. Should I seafoam anything involved in the oil change? From what i have been reading, you guys like to put seafoam in just about every nook and cranny. Also, I am changing out my spark plugs - NGK Platinum. I've owned the car for about 4 years and have never had them changed. I am assuming that is what is in there now. I've been told they should already be gapped when you buy them. Is 44 the right gap? I've seen prices range from 10 bucks a plug (Advance Auto) to 18.00 (Acura Auto Parts.org). I just want to make sure I get good ones. BTW, how often should spark plugs be changed?

That said, am I going about this in the right order? Should i start with the oil change first, then IACV/TB, then spark plugs? Oh yeah, might as well drop some seafoam in the gas tank too. Full can at a 1/4 tank, right? Step by step, detailed instructions would be greatly appreciated! I'm excited about doing this myself but cautiously nervous. I dont wanna screw this up. The only part that really concerns me is messing around with the TB/IACV/Seafoam.

Besides getting the oil changed, the only thing i have ever had done to this car is have the timing belt and water pump changed at 95K. I'm at 119K now.

01tl4tl

STOP!!!!
Carb cleaner spray for the IAC valve, not seafoam

Seafoam thru the intake manifold vac line 1 can, then drive like escaped mental patient~
Seafoam in gas tank as you described when you do the vac line method- the hard driving will help speed-clean injectors, add to tank before trips and every 5000 miles for max effect
Seafoam in the engine oil- and since 1st time to synthetic, drive gently for 15 minutes then change the oil and filter.
Mobil1 filter or K&N , even fram is fine. Penzoil Platinum oil is in my 01, Mobil1 FULLY synthetic- read bottle carefully- is well liked too.
Plugs: NGK Iridium- platinum is for wedding rings now- 7 bucks each at kragen or pepboys type store. These plugs start losing efficiency about 60k miles and you should drive a few days after seafoaming before change the plugs- that keeps them spotless on install. They are a super fine wire electrode type- dont touch the gap!!! dont buy 2 dollar plugs or bosch or anything else but NGK
Check the DIY section- there are 2 seafoam threads with more info than you need and pics to match- its as easy as adding gas to the car. Only sounds scary but is really fun to do
First time doing the seafoam should repeat gas tank and intake manifold methods after 2000 miles to give it a final cleaning of leftover stuff.

Welcome to maintaining your TL yourself

pzhoward

10-4

pzhoward

I seafoamed the intake, crankcase and gas tank. Wasnt much to it at all and I didn't even stall the engine! Toot toot! Went for a nice Sunday drive on a long deserted road and everything seems fine. Came back and changed the oil and filter. Since I haven't had any more idle problems in over a week (knock on wood), I'm gonna wait to clean the TB/IACV until I can get a day off to use my mechanics garage so that he can supervise, lol. He's going to let me use his garage to change the spark plugs too. What a nice guy!

Speaking of nice guys... thanks again to everyone's helpful advice, guidance and support. Acurazine is my new best friend!

01tl4tl

NGK Iridium IX are the spark plugs of choice

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

He's just trying to get in your pants

pzhoward

Haha.... I dont think so! But I can see why you might think that coming from someone your age.

2K3_TLs

lol

i take it he tried getting in yours first?

NYtypeS03

Dont feel bad same thing to my car today idle all mest up. First between 1500 and 2000 rmps then way to low rough and about to stall. I am going to do this first tommroow and clean my IAC and if that dont work im going to have to hook it up to the scan tool any suggestion to this promblem if cleaning it dont work or should that take care of it? Also i have 54k on my car kinda has me worried y so early but i also have a cai but dont noe if that will effect it