Problem with Brakes and Rotors
Problem with Brakes and Rotors
I have purchased rotors and brake pads for my car. Nothing to extravagant, just the Centric OEM type replacements (actual parts listed at the bottom fyi). I went to change the rotors and brakes and (a week ago) one night and could not remove the stock rotors. Since i could not remove them, I decided to just change the brake pads and come back to the rotors later... but as you guessed it, I got real busy and have been unable to change the rotors, so now i am running on the original rotors with the new pads. I have been riding like this for about 1000 miles. My questions:
1. Do i run any risk of messing up my brake pads running this setup? I know my right rear rotor is warped, so i am scared I fawked up my brake pad...
2. Should i buy new brake pads or would I be fine running the same pads with the new rotors?
I wanted to know as I plan on changing out the rotors this weekend when I have time...
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2003 ACURA TL S 3.2L 3210cc V6 FI [J32A2]
Brake/Wheel Hub : Brake Pad
CENTRIC Part # 10505360 {Ceramic} - REAR
CENTRIC Part # 10507870 {Ceramic} - FRONT
Brake/Wheel Hub : Rotor
CENTRIC Part # 12040047 - REAR, Solid
CENTRIC Part # 12040046
1. Do i run any risk of messing up my brake pads running this setup? I know my right rear rotor is warped, so i am scared I fawked up my brake pad...
2. Should i buy new brake pads or would I be fine running the same pads with the new rotors?
I wanted to know as I plan on changing out the rotors this weekend when I have time...
--------------------------------------------------------------------
2003 ACURA TL S 3.2L 3210cc V6 FI [J32A2]
Brake/Wheel Hub : Brake Pad
CENTRIC Part # 10505360 {Ceramic} - REAR
CENTRIC Part # 10507870 {Ceramic} - FRONT
Brake/Wheel Hub : Rotor
CENTRIC Part # 12040047 - REAR, Solid
CENTRIC Part # 12040046
Since you've been riding on them for 1000 miles, I would suspect the pads would be messed up from the warping, you never know by looking at a rotor that its warped, you have to physically measure it for "run-out", or unless it is totally focked up in appearance. You should of just used the new pads with the new rotors in the first place. So to answer your questions: 1=yes, 2=yes.
should not be a big deal with only 1000 miles on them of easy use
Hit them with 120 sandpaper if they look glassy- otherwise just use them as is
Make sure to use brake spray cleaner on the new rotors before install and be certain all the contact friction point gets lubed with caliper grease
Paint you calipers black while you are in there!!
Change out the brake fluid now and once a year from now on
You probably do not have a rear rotor warped- that would be very odd- more likely a caliper problem or the slider tracks not greased for the caliper to move when the brakes are used
The 2 screws hold the front rotors on
IN the rear- the park brake must be OFF as it is a set of drum brakes INSIDE the center of the rear rotor
It can be stuck on a pad ridge just like old school drum brakes- the rubber plug provides access to adjuster
Perhaps reading the diy on brakes is in order for you!
Hit them with 120 sandpaper if they look glassy- otherwise just use them as is
Make sure to use brake spray cleaner on the new rotors before install and be certain all the contact friction point gets lubed with caliper grease
Paint you calipers black while you are in there!!
Change out the brake fluid now and once a year from now on
You probably do not have a rear rotor warped- that would be very odd- more likely a caliper problem or the slider tracks not greased for the caliper to move when the brakes are used
The 2 screws hold the front rotors on
IN the rear- the park brake must be OFF as it is a set of drum brakes INSIDE the center of the rear rotor
It can be stuck on a pad ridge just like old school drum brakes- the rubber plug provides access to adjuster
Perhaps reading the diy on brakes is in order for you!
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mada51589
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