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Power steering fluid soaking engine, but from where?
Hey fellas, got an interesting thing I've been dealing with. My power steering fluid is getting everywhere! Every parking spot I drive away from, I leave a little puddle of PS fluid. I've been refilling my reservoir with Lucas Stop Leak, and the puddles have been getting smaller.
But, my high pressure line is still getting soaked, the reservoir gets moist, the hose to the pump is soaked on one side, the plastic above a headlight gets sprayed, and the pump itself is covered!
Here's a picture with the parts affected shown:
The hose clamps are there because I first thought it was leaking from the connections to the reservoir.
Any suggestions on a next step? Anything in particular you guys have stumbled upon in your travels that this might be similar to? I'll take anything at this point guys I'm tired of the looks the Honda guy gives me with all the fluid Im buying haha
Last edited by Arkady; 04-03-2018 at 07:48 PM.
Reason: Despite the years of education my spelling still has room to improve
Check the o-ring on the inlet of your high pressure hose.(the one that bolts to the top of the pump and runs toward the back of the engine compartment). More than likely that o-ring is cracked and sprays fluid when you jump on the throttle.
If the engine is moving around a lot I'd check your mounts as well.
Check the o-ring on the inlet of your high pressure hose.(the one that bolts to the top of the pump and runs toward the back of the engine compartment). More than likely that o-ring is cracked and sprays fluid when you jump on the throttle.
If the engine is moving around a lot I'd check your mounts as well.
Oh my goodness chojun that sounds like it might just be it!
You're talking about this part here, right? Red arrow.
Replaced the O-rings as suggested, and that definitely slowed the leak down a ton. The old rings weren't cracked, but they were definitely old and worn-down.
It's still getting air into the system though, and some spray is still happening. With my new knowledge of where the high-pressure line is, I was able to find that the hose itself was cracked with age. That must be what's literally spraying PS fluid all over my engine bay!
I found the issue on Thursday night, but didn't have time (nor do I currently have the time) to fully replace the hose. I put on a layer of hose-repair, but the leak punched right through that!
Friday I stopped by the store on the way to a friend's place and got some more hose repair tape and gorilla tape. Couple layers of hose repair, a thick and tight layer of Gorilla tape, and then hose clamps on the ends of the hose where it connects to the metal bits. 450 miles later and I've hardly leaked at all!
I'm definitely going to have to replace that hose entirely later though.
Chojun, any experience with that? It kinda looks like I might be able to reach where the hose connects behind the engine bay from underneath, or maybe from up top if I pull out the cross-bar thing.
I'll probably try to just do all the hoses in one go if I can. They all look to be about the same age so I wouldn't be surprised to find more cracks on them.
Maybe at that point I'll look at the pump itself as well - it's making some serious noise. The buzzing is mainly gone from air leaks, but it groans and whines like nothing else. You've pointed out in another thread I believe that this suggests issues with the pump itself, or maybe with the tension of the belt, correct?
Replaced the O-rings as suggested, and that definitely slowed the leak down a ton. The old rings weren't cracked, but they were definitely old and worn-down.
It's still getting air into the system though, and some spray is still happening. With my new knowledge of where the high-pressure line is, ... leak punched right through that!
I have to replace the high pressure hose on a 2000 Accord that I own (probably today or tomorrow). It's pretty much the same process from what I understand on the TL. The metal part of the hose is attached by some brackets to the subframe so you likely have to get under the car to completely remove it. You'll need crow's foot wrenches to get the hose off of the steering rack.
Just be careful not to bend the metal part of the hose when you're trying to get the new one situated back in place.
Is a crows foot really required? A socket definitely won't do the trick?
Also, any thoughts on cross-compatibility of the pressure hose among TL models? I know I can get it way cheaper at a yard than new, so if the newer models have the same shape hose I'm considering pulling one of them instead,.....
Yeah after looking at what this fix entails, I'm not about to get a used part and have to do the whole thing again later on down the line,... I'm getting a new hose that'll outlast the rest of the car instead haha.
So I went to replace the high-pressure P/S hose on my Accord and managed to round the nut that goes from the P/S hose into the steering rack (2:15 on the video above). It's on there amazingly tight.
Anyone have any ideas on how to get this nut out? I sprayed a ton of liquid wrench penetrating oil on it and am going to let it sit overnight. I tried vice grips and a cheater bar and still couldn't get it off.
Are you using a line wrench and not just an open end?
If you'e already vice-gripped it and rounded it, you've entered the fun zone.
You COULD cut the line close to the nut and maybe get a deepwell socket on it then...
Are you using a line wrench and not just an open end?
If you'e already vice-gripped it and rounded it, you've entered the fun zone.
You COULD cut the line close to the nut and maybe get a deepwell socket on it then...
No, not using a line wrench. I'm going to exchange my open wrenches for some flare ones. But at this point it's too late. When I first got the wrench on the nut I noticed the nut wasn't exactly the shape of the wrench. I then had a feeling I was going to have a fun time when the nut wouldn't budge.
I resorted to vice grips because the nut was at that point already rounded.
I thought about cutting the line with a dremel but I still have to get the nut out of the rack. I'm going to try to find a bigger pair of vice grips as the ones I was using are really small.
No, not using a line wrench. I'm going to exchange my open wrenches for some flare ones. But at this point it's too late. When I first got the wrench on the nut I noticed the nut wasn't exactly the shape of the wrench. I then had a feeling I was going to have a fun time when the nut wouldn't budge.
I resorted to vice grips because the nut was at that point already rounded.
I thought about cutting the line with a dremel but I still have to get the nut out of the rack. I'm going to try to find a bigger pair of vice grips as the ones I was using are really small.
If you cut the line and can manage to get a 6-point DW socket on it, that will be your best chance. You might have to file down the flats of the nuts and try a smaller socket, but this is the best leverage. A 12-point socket will just encourage more rounding. Vice grips will just round it worse.
You're 2nd option is a line wrench with a pipe for leverage, but worth a try.
Or you can drop the whole rack and get it off on the bench... Good luck!
Wow my spelling is horrible when using the phone.
I meant to say "I've heard good things about heating stuck bolts up, but I'm not sure if that's a safe idea in this situation"
Jeez that was bad.
Wow my spelling is horrible when using the phone.
I meant to say "I've heard good things about heating stuck bolts up, but I'm not sure if that's a safe idea in this situation"
Jeez that was bad.
Even though I might do that myself as a last resort, I would never recommend anybody else do it.
No luck yet. I got a beefier pair of vice grips on the nut and couldn't budge it. My mechanic neighbor saw me fighting with it and wandered over and gave it a shot himself. The whole steering rack was flexing but the nut wouldn't budge. He's going to bring a butane mini torch from his shop today and see if we can't heat it up and coax it off that way. He doesn't think the torch will hurt anything. If this doesn't work then I'll probably have to drop the rack and take it off on a bench - or replace the rack.
I would be surprised if a seasoned mechanic couldn't get the whole job done in 30-45 minutes. It really isn't that involved. Some thoughts:
* Be sure to use a flare/line-wrench type crows foot to reduce the risk that you round that stupid nut.
* Get some penetrating oil on there at least 24h in advance
Hope I don't end up snapping my cheap extensions again,....
Good call on the penetrating fluid. I'll start soaking mine today and re-apply throughout the day tomorrow until my buddy gets off work and we can get to work on it.
Keep us posted man, I hope you get that thing off!
Chojun, which bolt are you trying to remove? I did the job Friday afternoon and it took me 4.5 hours with a buddy. 1 hour was waiting for him to come back from the parts store with a new pressure switch (he threw the old hose in victory when we got it out, and destroyed the old sensor lol). 2.5 hours were spent on figuring out how to put the new one in .
I know you said you were doing an accord, so it's probably different for you, but on my 99 TL-P I didn't even need the crows feet. Two 10mm up top, 3x 10mm books on 3x brackets, and 2x 10mm bolts on the end. The only tools needed were a ratchet, some extensions, a universal joint, and some sockets. The work was done with the front of the car jacked 2 feet in the air on stands .
So I went to replace the high-pressure P/S hose on my Accord and managed to round the nut that goes from the P/S hose into the steering rack (2:15 on the video above). It's on there amazingly tight.
Anyone have any ideas on how to get this nut out? I sprayed a ton of liquid wrench penetrating oil on it and am going to let it sit overnight. I tried vice grips and a cheater bar and still couldn't get it off.
Chojun, which bolt are you trying to remove? I did the job Friday afternoon and it took me 4.5 hours with a buddy. 1 hour was waiting for him to come back from the parts store with a new pressure switch (he threw the old hose in victory when we got it out, and destroyed the old sensor lol). 2.5 hours were spent on figuring out how to put the new one in .
I know you said you were doing an accord, so it's probably different for you, but on my 99 TL-P I didn't even need the crows feet. Two 10mm up top, 3x 10mm books on 3x brackets, and 2x 10mm bolts on the end. The only tools needed were a ratchet, some extensions, a universal joint, and some sockets. The work was done with the front of the car jacked 2 feet in the air on stands .
Yeah it looks like the TL-P uses a different connection mechanism to the steering rack valve body than the TL-S - flare nut (and also, the Accord uses a flare nut).
I think the nut is rusted on.
I might have to try something like what bbsitum suggested. I'm going to see if my neighbor can take 1 more look at it. My next step was going to be cutting the line off and hammering a socket onto it. If that doesn't work, then I'll try a bolt extractor. If that doesn't work, then I might have to drop the rack altogether and get it off on a bench. If that doesn't work, then buy a new steering rack
I'm glad you got yours done Arkady - all-in-all it's really not a tough job (or it really shouldn't be)!
^^^ https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...t-tips-872907/ . My coment #34 clear about connections. Btw in post #39 I told you exactly what worked for me. You didn't bother to browse forum before project, even you was posting in that thread.
Just about nothing worked getting the nut off. I finally cut the line and bought a bolt extractor set. I hammered it on and got after it with my breaker bar and it popped right off. The nut was trashed!
No I was afraid that I might have to. But I picked up a set of impact grade bolt extractors that have nice aggressive teeth on them and pounded the 13mm one on with a hammer (the original bolt size is 14mm). I just used that, a really long extension and a breaker bar and it came right off.
The penetrating oil worked its way about 3-4 threads deep so that stuff really is pretty good. The nut wasn't rusted at all - I just think the outer metal got a little soft from age or whatever.
For the record, in case anyone is searching how to do this, the high-pressure P/S hose really should go in and out through the top of the engine bay.
To get it back in, I just aimed to drop the end of the hose (that connects to the steering rack) below the subframe where the cat is. From under the car you can grab the hose and give it a little wiggle and it'll come through without forcing it at all.
Hey chojun sorry that I missed your post! I've been moving into my new place so internet has been spotty. I'm glad you got it figured out! I did it the same way you did - in and out through the top.
id say the biggest use of time in this whole ordeal is figuring out how to get it back in haha
I finished the job today. Just by way of more information for anyone coming this way, the brackets holding the P/S hose to the subframe are by far the hardest part of the job - even harder than figuring out how to get the hoses in/out or the flare nut (if present) out of the steering rack. When you detach the brackets, just throw the old M6x1.0 screws away. Go to the store and buy new M6x1.0 screws that have tapered tips. Believe me, I fought getting the screws back into the brackets for over an hour. After buying new ones with tapered tips, I was able to get them started in less than 5 minutes each.
The passenger bracket is easiest to install from the top of the engine bay. For the driver's side, turn the wheel all the way to the left and go through the wheel well. Once started by hand, both bolts can be tackled from the engine bay. A ratcheting wrench is best on the passenger side, and a u-joint and some long extensions do best on the driver's side.
A trick I used was to take a piece of torn glove and wedge it into the socket with the bolt so that the bolt will stay in the socket when you try to start it in the bracket (i.e. stretch the glove across the socket opening, then press the bolt in). The bolt won't fall out of the socket when you let go of it.
All-in-all this is a pretty crappy job. I'm not sure how it relates to the rear engine mount but people who aren't extremely patient should probably just take it to the mechanic to get this job done.
I finished the job today. Just by way of more information for anyone coming this way, the brackets holding the P/S hose to the subframe are by far the hardest part of the job - even harder than figuring out how to get the hoses in/out or the flare nut (if present) out of the steering rack. When you detach the brackets, just throw the old M6x1.0 screws away. Go to the store and buy new M6x1.0 screws that have tapered tips. Believe me, I fought getting the screws back into the brackets for over an hour. After buying new ones with tapered tips, I was able to get them started in less than 5 minutes each.
The passenger bracket is easiest to install from the top of the engine bay. For the driver's side, turn the wheel all the way to the left and go through the wheel well. Once started by hand, both bolts can be tackled from the engine bay. A ratcheting wrench is best on the passenger side, and a u-joint and some long extensions do best on the driver's side.
A trick I used was to take a piece of torn glove and wedge it into the socket with the bolt so that the bolt will stay in the socket when you try to start it in the bracket (i.e. stretch the glove across the socket opening, then press the bolt in). The bolt won't fall out of the socket when you let go of it.
All-in-all this is a pretty crappy job. I'm not sure how it relates to the rear engine mount but people who aren't extremely patient should probably just take it to the mechanic to get this job done.
Is it possible to get the bolts that connect the line to the bracket on the rack and pinion from the top? Were there any special tools that you had to use? My high pressure line literally started leaking yesterday -.-
04-03-2018, 07:46 PM
