Alright guys what's up! So I have a little issue here. My battery is good and the alternator is good also. But If I leave the radio on with the car off (for 5 minutes) the speaker sound will fade so will the lights and then everything will shut off.

Then when I go try to turn on the car on. It makes a rapid clicking noise or a rrrr-rrr noise How a dead battery would sound like. If the car sat for a few hours or overnight it will do the same. But it always turns over after 2-3 cycles of the rapid clicking noise and the rrrrr noise. No warning lights or anything are flashing. The automatic power window doesn't work anymore either. It still goes down just not automatically anymore I have to use the button.

So what could this be, I'm thinking maybe a bad starter solenoid? since the battery/alternator are in good condition got it checked out at autozone. But that doesn't explain the automatic window problem?

First my headlights went out from the condensation fried ballast now this

Thanks guys much appreciated!

 

Bump

 

How old is the battery ? Was a "load test" performed on the electrical system ?
Check all the connections and grounds. If anything is corroded, it'll cause problems. If the charging system tests ok, then look closer towards the starter wiring and possibly a relay or solenoid ?

 

The radio causing the battery to go dead would make me take a second look at the battery. The capacitance testers parts store typically use are not 100% accurate. The gold standard is still a specific gravity test with a hydrometer and a load test that can handle 1/2 the battery's cold cranking amps for 15 seconds. This means cables as big as your little finger and a load unit big enough to dissipate 5000 watts of heat.(usually the size of 2 shoe boxes side by side) This diagnosis is a piece of cake for any shop with even minimal equipment. For $50 or less you should get a battery load test, alternator output test (volts @amps), regulator check, diode/stator test, parasitic drain if necessary, and hydrometer test if necessary or advisable.

 

Battery isn't as good as you think... If it sounds, looks and smells like a dead battery? It is a dead battery.


Make a LOAD TEST on your nearest Autozone and confirm it.. Worst case scenario? Your Alternator isn't working.

 

One of the points I was trying to make is that the typical parts store doesn't have the equipment to do a real load test. Basically, if you can hold it in your hand, it's extrapolating the amperage capability based on a much smaller load.

 

^^ His battery is in such state that the radio is eating its capacity in 5 minutes.. I don't think it needs and industrial Tester to see that voltage as the Niagara falls.

 

If the battery is OK, then it sounds like a bad ground wire.

 

Ok first thing I would do is check the dash, Does the red battery light turn on as soon as you turn the key to start the car without starting the engine, its located by the check engine light. If you don't see it you change all the parts you want and still have alternator and battery issues.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, @ErickUa5 I'm gonna have to check that out after school. I have a new battery chilling in my garage so I'll pop that in there to see if that fixes the problem. If not I'll just get a new starter :/ But before that where would the ground wire be located? I had the guys at Auto Zone test my alternator and battery they gave it the O.K but then again they're not happy campers when they have to leave the cold A/C to be in the Florida Sun. So they weren't really trying to help me out with anything.

Another problem is when I go over speed bumps a little bit to fast, Or go up a very steep driveway it will slip also. It only slips sometimes in 1st gear -_- Such a beautiful car with a GARBAGE Transmission on the type-s. It's the struggle for a 18 year old kid working minimum wage haha. I guess after fixing the alternator/starter/battery/ground wire problem. I'll get my headlights taken cared of. Then do a ATF-DW1 3x3 flush..

 

So depressing when I wanna get headers, intake and such. But have all this other crap popping up.....

 

The ground wire is at the Ground on the battery.. There are 2 Connections!


1) To the chassis just in front of the Battery.
2) A cable going down to the Transmission housing. < Usually this corrodes and make problems.

 

I agree with you on what state his battery is in, but he said autozone tested it and found it ok. Based on the information given, he needs better testing.

 

You must have somehow offended the automotive goddess, so either make a suitable sacrifice to her, or save your money for actual repairs.

 

Hey Hxrguitar, welcome to used car ownership. Any 10 year old car with over 100k on the dial will require considerable preventative and routine maintenance. Things like T-belts, trannys, suspension, brakes, etc......etc. will keep ya entertained.

The mods can wait until ya feel at ease with having a dependable car for transportation. After ya get everything tight, then ya can start having some fun. Sometimes if ya mod first, ya get caught with other issues and no money.

 

Yeah I just changed the oil and popped in a new Mobil1 oil filter, A tranny flush is next. What should be after that? That is a high priority (Beside brakes mine were replaced recently) ? The tranny was also replaced a month before I got the car. But before I start modding my car. I'm thinking of doing the Accord Tranny swap. Because the shop did a bad job on my transmission. And from what I read around here why keep putting money into our transmission when it's guaranteed it's just going to shit out again.

 

You can certainly begin the search for a low mileage one. Prices are reported to be $650 to $1500, which is a pretty wide range....