After trying my luck with EGR cleaning and changing the O2 sensor, my CEL is still on so looking to change the cat at 160k miles

Any feedback on the Magnaflow 27402 direct fit. I could not see a YouTube video of this. Do you recommend any DIY thread, I could not find it

Thanks for your response

 

Was an "OEM" Denso brand O2 sensor used to replace the old one with ?
If the cat is bad, the car's motor usually bogs down and the exhaust will smell bad.

Check with the site's vendors for replacement free-flowing cats.

 

ask your local muffler shop what to use, a generic obdi2 cat for 100-150 bucks or high flow cat (most require a $10 mod to correct flow rate to O2 sensor)

DIY is spray wd or similar on bolts the night before
remove nuts/bolts and remove cat
install new cat- use new hardware (bolts/washers) if available

what codes are you getting now?
you did the full remove intake manifold to clean egr and poked it correctly?
upper gasket was installed correct side up?

 

Thanks all. Quick follow up.

Any recommendations on the 2 variations of Magnaflow.

Magnaflow New York/Catalytic Converter 49258 at AutoZone.com

300 bucks - is classified as OEM grade

or the

Magnaflow New York/Catalytic Converter 27402 at AutoZone.com

It sells for 199 $...

 

I would definitely call or PM Excelerate, he is not far from you and is the east coast exhaust go to guy for ziners~
stock type for great price or stealthy but legal racers...

 

I just ordered a new magna flow cat. Though I have done things under the hood (TB cleaning, EGR cleaning, etc), I have not done cat replacement. Any suggestions for this one, do I need to jack up the car to replace cat (the tip to spray WD40 overnight was helpful). I searched but did not find a DIY post that covers start to end (with photos or youtube). Any links appreciated.

 

Just keep in mind what you're dealing with. The old exhaust parts are going to be contrary to remove & replace.

You will require room to work on the stuff, so safely find a way to support the car.
Rust and heat kills the old mounting hardware, so be prepared to improvise along the way.

 

if you get in there with the penetrating lube and it looks like nothing but rust
Put the car down!
drive to the local small muffler shop where a few dollars will get the job done

having room to pull a breaker bar is crucial on rust seized nuts
(sounds like a personal problem old guys get)

NOTE: try tightening stuck bolt/nut slightly- to break that bond, then remove
These jobs are either cake, or they eat your lunch