i recently changed my radiator like 2 months ago and the car keeps over heating and the bottle next to the radiator keeps over flowing so idk what the problem is?

 

are you setting the res bottle to `full cold`?
the hose inside the res cap is firmly attched?
and the radiator is filled to the neck when cold?

did this car overheat a few times???--into the red -maybe driven like that,how long?,
or the water pump is failing and not pumping flow

Off the top- Im guessing all those occured since you got a new radiator... due to clogging and overheat--correct?

Now there is pressure in the cylinders from exhaust gas leak at head gasket
Does the oil level change or now milky-frothy looking?
what does the coolant look like now?

I would pull the plugs, ck for coolant in the oil and cylinders
It may be head gasket replacement time since coolant is forced back and overflows the resivour

let a shop ck it for you, simple test of exhaust gasses in radiator and other ways to tell

 

Did you bleed the air out of it after replacement?
White smoke (vapor) coming out of exhaust?

 

I also have the problem but only when driving very fast for a long time(about 120mph in Germany highway).It goes to about3/4 of the scale on cluster.
-fluid is correct
-fans turn on

I have no idea what it can be

 

should never go above 1/2!!!

ck radiator flow thru, coolant condition/age, fans are really working

due for water pump? replace thermostat

inside cap for res bottle- the hose is firmly attached to cap?

 

Wow, 120mph- fans would just be in the way!

 

I hope the ac is off,,but at full throttle it auto disconnects anyway~
120 cruise in a tl--thats a nic way to spend a few hours...with other drivers also skilled at speed sharing the road..you stay right/slow lane unless passing, or get a ticket!!

in euorpe-autobahn-in the fast lane you better be going 160-180-200+ or groups of cars will blow up on you... high beams flashing!!
Their driver license test would have most americans biting the dashboard
Whatever top speed it will go- the examiner needs to see you properly handle the car there for 30 minutes, plus an hour in town and other areas,,full skills testing

driver training for a regular license is well over 3 grand- thats an old number, more now- but its above the race driver training you get in the usa!

 

Let the car run for a few minutes until its up to temp and feel all the coolant hoses for pressure and heat...If they squeeze easily, or more importantly if they are cold then you have air in the system and it needs to be bled.

 

99TL_PL, For what it's worth, your description is a textbook example of a radiator that can't quite reject enough heat. At speed, you've got plenty of airflow and good coolant circulation. You might have a layer of pollen between the condensor and radiator, or the cooling fins may be loose from the tubes or missing.

 

if rad hoses are soft or have soft spots, they can collapse under suction in system and stop coolant flow
partial or full blockage can result

 

well since i got the radiator changed after like 4 months it started over heating and all and some of the mechanics tell me the radiator isnt good and some tell me the bypass pipes need to be changed and the res-bottle or water pump. well the car usually over heats after a couple of mins of driving because before i take out the car im always filling it up with antifreeze so that keeps it alive for about an hour.

 

the 1st time it overheated was on the highway and it was 4/4 and it just turned of on me and the anti freeze always turns brown after a while so idk. maybe it is the pipes who knows.

 

thank you all guys for the input,espessially 01tl4tl !
the hoses are hard when hot,the fluid has been changed about 4 years ago.
I dont think this is a radiotor flow issue,I have never used anything else than good fluid,schould not be clogged.
the is nothing wrong with it when driving even 90-100 mph for long time,when reaching over 110-120 I can sea the temp rising up just a bit and increasing with higher speed.of course when driving this fast I turn off ac.

I also have one more question.
I have 150k miles on my oryginal tranny and have an oportunity to buy very cheap trans from 2002 CL.will it fit my car 99 TL.my trans still runs great but i plan to keep this car and might need the spare trans one day.the nr on the trans is BGFA-90057252PGF42

THANK YOU

 

iinfam
you most likely have a blown head gasket- thats oil getting in the coolant = turns it brown
You are probably also losing coolant into the cylinders, and out the exhaust-note white smoke from tailpipe when you accellerate
(when head removed, piston top wil be steam cleaned shiny,,or loaded with water and sludge)

cant say if its just one head or both without proper testing, but overheating to the redline is the cause of the THAT problem

in addition: find whatever caused it--if water pump is more than 100kmiles its weak and can be the problem for sure, bad bearings--seal failure, and the coolant leaks out the `weep hole` on bottem of pump- its there to let you know its failed,,

pull the spark plugs and crank engine--the cyls where water comes out ~~~~
compression testing and plug condition will tell you where the prob is, and if both heads are affected

 

99: change coolant- its only good for 5 years if you are lucky
makes a big diff in temp too

for your type driving, I would run slightly less than 50/50 mix, instead add Redline Water Wetter which really works at high heat- dropping temps 20-50f is a big deal!!

 

for those about to jump up and say `well the book says 7 years on coolant`

- keep reading to where it says 5 years on replacement coolant

its additive package wears out- coolant turns acidic in aluminum rad,,,you do the science

 

thanx 01tl4tl.
Ill do the fluid change for some good brand fluid.

 

some are dedicated to honda coolant premix, others use aftermarket name brand that states `approved for acura`

 

yeah i believe its the water pump which is weak because the mechanic fixed the propblem there were 2 pipes connected to the engine which leaking because of pressure i belive and yeah the white smoke comes out at times when im stopped at a red light and i let the car run for about 2 hours and it didnt over heat but when i parked the car and looked at it after an hour or so i seen something was leaking on the ground but the anti-freeze was filled and i believe it might be another pipe or something but over-all it doesnt over heat. and thanks for all the info.

 

its putting out white smoke? thats coolant getting into the exhaust = blown head gasket

does the temp stay at its normal just under half? or is it going up to max red still?

if there is air trapped in the system, (leaks allow air in too) it can fool the temp guage into reading normal while engine is hot

when dead cold: ck the rad level is to the neck, the res bottle at max when cold-
the hose inside res cap attached firmly
and the engine OIL - is it staying at full or going up!! that is coolant into the oil= bad news= damage to bearings and more

 

ever since i got the pipes changed my car runs smooth now so i dont have any problems thank god. and it stopped over heating and the coolant doesnt leak either. but thank you for the help. and yeah i checked the car im always checking if everything is filled and if not i make sure it is.

 

any idea what pipes were replaced?
ck your rad cap to be sure its good seal

that drip on the ground may be condensation drain from ac --if its green or whatever color your coolant is,,not ac condensation~

 

well im not sure i think they were the bypass pipes? and yeah i got a new rad cap cuz the old one wasnt good. and i gotta get the free-on gas in the ac.