cominfromafar

What should the oil pressure be for a '99 acura tl?

The repair manual says 71psi @ 3000rpm for the 1999 J32A1/UA5 engine.

I have two gauges.

*****Gauge 1 --- 0-100psi scale (in 2psi steps), xxx manufacturer guage*****
At idle (750rpm) and warm engine, i get 28psi.

At 3000rpm, i get 84psi.
************************************************** *************

*****Gauge 2, 0-300psi scale (in 5psi steps), KD Tools gauge*****
At idle (750rpm) and warm engine, i get 30psi.

At 3000rpm i get 90psi.
************************************************** *************


First off, it's odd that when at 3000rpm, the KD tools gives me 90psi instead of the expected 85psi. Could be some calibration issues even though i just purchased both of them and expected them to be ready to go.


More importantly, am i in danger since my oil pressure is 84psi @ 3000rpm when the manual states it should be around 71psi @ 3000rpm?

If it is bad that the pressure is this high, what could be causing it?

fsttyms1

I dont think its that bad. Does it get higher as the RPMS build?

And why are you testing it anyway? do you suspect something is wrong?

mtsesrs1

Other questions to be asked?

New Motor, Old Motor, How many miles, Type and weight of oil, Stock oil pump, (High Volume pump (Doubt it) . A number of variables you have left out we do not know. As a gereral rule 10psi per 1000 rpm keeps a stocker together. Heavier oil produces more psi. Oil cold produces more. Too much pressure 100psi + can be bad as well as too little psi less than 10 @ idle. A little more info can help.

cominfromafar

Sorry about the lacking info, here it is:

Fully original stock motor (w/ stock oil pump) and tranny with 106,700 miles.

Oil grade/weight is currently [Castrol Syntec] 5w-30, and it's been about 1,500 miles since i last changed it. I change it every 3,000 miles.

I can't say if the oil pressure goes higher than 84/90psi (w/ the two corresponding gauges) if i rev it past 3,000rpm because i didn't go much past that. I revved to 3,250rpm at most, and noticed that the needle (on the 100psi scale gauge) was just teetering at 84/85psi. I'll try revving it higher and post the results.

I did also observe what you said about cold oil producing more pressure, and so i did let it warm up for at least 1 radiator fan cycle, or for more than 7 minutes. The readings which i posted above were well into the warming period (radiator fan cycle, upper radiator hose very warm, and more than 7 minutes had passed), and after i saw the fluctuations due to cold oil.

The reason i am doing this is because my oil pressure light was coming on, blinking slowly and fast sometimes. I suspected that it was a sensor, but being paranoid and careful, i decided to check to see if the pump was operating correctly.

I hope i haven't left anything out this time...

cominfromafar

I forgot to note that i will be seafoaming the engine/fuel system and then putting on the new oil pressure sender.

fsttyms1

I would say possibly a faulty sending unit ? (also check the alternator output) Does your VTEC work properly?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

did u put an after market oil pres. gauge in? bc if u did i need some help with mine.

cominfromafar

Well i tested it again, and (w/ a warm enginge) the oil pressure was 96psi @ 4000rpm. I didn't want to take it above 4,000rpm. I really suspect that there is a blockage somewhere. But being that i need the car up and running to get work done immediately, i connected the new pressure sender unit, and will seafoam the crankcase while keeping an eye on things since there seems to be no low pressure/pressure loss. I know, i'll probably have to change the sender unit again due to the seafoam procedure.

Raj, i did not connect an aftermarket oil pressure gauge, so i don't think i can help. But you can still ask and someone will have an answer..

fst, how do i check if the VTEC system is operating properly? I hear no engine knock or anything. The alternater/ground wires look fine.

2K3_TLs

Take your car out for a drive, past approx 3800 RPMs, thats when VTEC engages for your TL. You should note a change in sound when VTEC kicks in, however slight it may be.

cominfromafar

If i hear the sound difference, does this indicate that it's working properly (without any problems) or just that it's working (with glitches, however minor it/they may be)? The car is still on jack stands (i'll finish up bolting everything when i get up later before i head to work), so i should be able to hear the sound if i rev it now right (i assume the transmission doesn't have to be engaged)?

2K3_TLs

If you can hear it, it should be working properly... if it wasnt, I'm more than positive it would throw a CEL or something. I dont know how the 99's are when you rev it in park/neutral, but when I rev it up then, it bounces off at approx 5-5.2k RPM as if it were hitting the limiter, then again my VTEC engages at 5k.

cominfromafar

ummm, just to verify that i didn't do all of this for nothing and so i don't feel like an idiot, there is no reset procedure after an oil change on '99 TL's right? The reset procedure is for gen 3 and onwards only?

The manual says to change the oil, turn the engine on, and the oil light should go off in 5 seconds. I didn't read anything about a reset procedure.

cominfromafar

Ok, i'll test the vtec on an open road then.

2K3_TLs

there is a reset procedure for the "Maint Req'd" light. It explains how to reset it in your user manual. I dont know it off hand though. All it is, is a reminder... it comes on and flashes after 5k mi, I believe... and then comes on and stays on after 7500... its just a reminder to change your oil and other maintenance items...