KamikazeTL

Where can I find this part? I've tried looking all over online and even autozone doesn't have it.

sharroll

I don't know but I called the Honda dealership which is closer than going to the Acura and they can order the gasket and the cost for to change the oil pan gasket is around $315 done by Honda! Also, check www.advanceautoparts.com hope that works!

KamikazeTL

The dealership said our cars don't have an oil pan gasket so it would need the seals replaced.

ANC297

iTrader: (2)

I dont know if they have a gasket, but you do need to put new silicone around the edges of the pan.
Its probably high temp RTV, but there mightt be a specific gasket maker to use.

KamikazeTL

Is it the front seal?

fsttyms1

There is no gasket to buy, its a liquid. Go to the honda dealer and get a tube of Honda Bond.

KamikazeTL

Is that like the silicone thingy?

fsttyms1

Yes. But its the best stuff on the market. Been using it for years for gasket material. Iv used it on just about every make of car and bike and never had a issue

KamikazeTL

Thanks for the information. How many tubes do you need to seal the oil pan? I bought a new oil pan aswell.

lokee99

iTrader: (3)

A new oil pan and some sealent huh. I think i need to do this as well. Acura or Honda should be able to tell you how much you need. I wonder what steps do i need to do to do this for myself. I guess maybe drain the oil and remove the oil pan... Clean off the old sealent and install new pan with new sealent? I dont know. Never removed that.

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

You have to drop the J-pipe. It's in the way.

lokee99

iTrader: (3)

How hard is that? I only do stuff that I have had problems with before so this will be a first for me.

Everyone said the motor mounts were easy and it probably would have been if i could get that one bolt loose that I couldnt lol. I was at a shop doing it and used everything but couldnt break it. So i took it to the dealer

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Its not hard, you might run into a stubborn rusty bolt, that's about it. It's only a few bolts on the headers and B-pipe to remove the J-pipe, then disconnect the O2 sensor.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you mean a can (comes in a easily dispoensed aerosal can OP, squeeze the trigger, and it comes out at a very workable speed)

Toyota's fiback (their sealant, can't think of exactly what it is called ) is also another good sealant, but it comes in squeeze tube form , so kinda a pain to dispense easily (i either like the aerosol form, or when you can actually use enough sealant in a couple of months, the caulking tube/gun form)

i can get two pans out of a can of hondabond, with a little left over (not much though, so it can do one pan EASILY)

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

considering lokee and OP are both from Cali (and hopefully the cars are too originally); rust should not be too big of a headache for them (some of the bolts might be "sticky", but should not be "frozen/ completely siezed" up on them though)







also when you stuff the new pan/gasketed pan back up, gotta be real careful doing it, so you do not move the silicone out of place if you accidentally hit the bottom of the tranny (it basically scrapes it away from the said area, then it does not seal properly, and you get a leak)

fsttyms1

No i meant tube lol

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

fuck i can't find a pic of the can form, but i know i have a can sitting on my toolbox at work



as OP how about Yamabond instead (and YES there is such a thing)






i was thinking of Hondabond, but actually it is UltraFlangeII

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

btw in this TSB:

http://www.acura world.com/tsb/TSX/b99-015.pdf

(delete added in space first though)

it even says "This thick, gray material is the only recommended product for
sealing gasketless oil pans on the 1998-99 2.3CL, and ’99
3.2TL." for since the tsb came out in 99, only references to the newest models at the time

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

When I'm stuck in traffic, at a stop, the smell of burning oil has begun assulting my senses.

I have a little oil burning off the rear of the engine. Doesn't seem to be the valve cover gasket.
'Twas thinking it was from the pan. The front bolts are dry, but the rears are coated.
I got a 10mm ratchet with a short handle in there, and gave seven or eight of them the tinest snug.
If they did't "crack" tighter [about a 1/16th turn], I left them alone.

There is a plug of some sort above the rear of the pan, but I cannot find the right schematic for it.
That plug was tighter than my bank's unsecured credit.

There was the tinest of weeping at a sensor above the pan [the rear side, by the filter],
but I don't think that was it.

Hoping it is the pan. Any hep is appreciated.

Am I gonna have to remove this "J-pipe" and reseal the pan?

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

If you think you've found it, all you can do is monitor it and see if it continues to leak. If not then yes, the J pipe needs to be removed to the re-seal.

The plug you saw was probably the drain for the coolant in the engine block. Not it, obviously.

The other one was probably the oil pressure sensor.

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Evidently I need to get the car up higher and take a hard, hard look.
The smell was gone for a while, but is creeping back.
What do you think? Spray with degreaser and air-blow off?

I'm not happy about the idea of cutting off the J-Pipe, mainly because I'm unfamiliar with the components and possible problems I might encounter. Even with the search function, I've not found clear pictures of the procedure. Any help or direction will be appreciated.

TLTu

Bump for J hook removal instructions.

thoiboi

Step 1. Unbolt
Step 2. Lower

Iggy

Just to add,
Remove six nuts on J--pipe, and 2 hanger bolts which allow the whole assembly to drop. disconnect the o2 sensor connector(otherwise the exhaust will hang from the wires). That's it, leave everything else on the exhaust connected.

I would also recommend 2 NEW OEM flange gaskets(5 bucks each at dealer). I've tried aftermarket gaskets but they don't fit right.

Iggy

also

Iggy

BigSaveDave

@Iggy Is this from the service manual?

thoiboi