ketanchampaneria

I have an 2001 Acura 3.2 TL

I stopped at a signal light and I saw that ABS and TCS lights were on solid and then small LCD screen under the odometer was flickering. At the next signal light, I pressed the breaks all the way down towards the mate and all the gauges want to the off position. The maintenance light started to flicker at this time and the LCD panel under the odometer was completely off. When I got into my driveway, I turned off the car and waited for about 30 seconds. But the car would not start it would make a rapped clicking noise in the engine area when turning the key.

Try the interior lights, they work fine, but when turning on the headlights only the left side would turn no right away, put the right headlight would have a delay for about 10 to 15 seconds and then after being on for a few seconds being on solid, it would then start to flicker like an strobe light.

Please can someone help! I am completely stubbed!

Bob_F

Do you have a battery charger? If so hook that up and see if the battery takes a charge.

ketanchampaneria

Yes, I do have a battery charger. I will try that, but we also tried to give the car a boost from are van it is a 1996 GMC Starcraft Vandura 2500 and we must of left it on for about 5 or 10 minutes. But still the car did not startup!

I will go try the battery charger now!

thanks

fsttyms1

Battery is dead. If the battery is dead no amount of jump starting will help.Also you may want to have the alternator tested.

ketanchampaneria

I think your right and dead on. I checked the battery and the voltage reading was 11.70v which I read is below 25% and the indicator on the battery is Black/Dark.

There is also a buildup of a blue/white solvent on and around the positive terminal which could be a leaking battery.


Thanks for your help!

gizmobuilder

That rattling/rapping noise is probably your starter solenoid engaging/disengaging rapidly. Its cuz the starter motor draws so much current that if your battery is a goner it actually drops the voltage to the point where the solenoid deactuates, and then there is no load, so the voltage jumps back up, so the cycle repeats.

ketanchampaneria

I charged the car battery for about 4 hours. The battery charge want from 11.70v to about 14.2v and then I started the car, it started up right away. I left it idling for about 5 to 10 minutes turned it off and then waited for 30 minutes. Started the car again waited another 15 minutes and want out with the car to do some shopping for about 2 hours, no problems in starting up the car at my two stops.

Came home with out any problem could this be a fluke!

fsttyms1

May want to test the alternator

6spMike

Clean the corrosion off the battery terminals.
They make a wire brush like tool to clean the clamps and the posts.
Put a layer of grease on them when you put it back together.

ketanchampaneria

Below is the test that I tried, but not a 100% sure if the battery was overcharged to perform the test properly.


One Very Simple Alternator Test:


1) Start Car and run at a normal idle.

2) Connect a Voltmeter Directly Across the battery Terminals.

3) Turn on Headlights to High Beam.

4) check the battery Voltage.
*** The Battery voltage Should read between about 13.8 to 14.2 volts. (Possibly up to 14.5 Volts.)

5) Increase motor speed to about 1500 or 2500 RPM. The Alternator should now produce a battery voltage between 14.2 and 14.6
Volts.
*** If it is Lower than 14.2 volts, the Alternator probably has one or more Bad Diodes.

6) Now, Maintain the 1500 RPM and Turn off the Headlights. Run this test for One Full Minute.
"The Battery Voltage should NEVER Exceed about 14.8 Volts".
***If it Does, the Alternators Voltage Regulator is probably Faulty, OVER CHARGING the Battery.

6spMike

What were your results?
It might simply be that the posts to cable connections are dirty. Cleaning them might fix the whole problem.

Gfaze

It is very likely that the corrosion on your battery post was the cause of your problem. Corrosion at the terminal will interfere with current flow to your battery. It will slowly discharge until you cannot start your car anymore.

Even though the battery took a charge you should take it in to your local auto parts store such as Checker/Schucks/Kragen/Murray's or Autozone to have your battery load tested. This test will determine if your battery is still in good condition or if it will fail again. If it is leaking acid then my guess is that the battery is probably several years old and in need of replacement. Most batteries last an average of about 3-4 years. Some go longer but they are not very common.

You should also get your alternator tested just to be sure that it's still charging properly. If all is well, use battery protectant lube to prevent future corrosion on your battery terminals. Any local parts store should have that stuff in little packets for about a buck. Make sure to clean the battery terminals on the cables and the battery posts thoroughly.

For extra peace of mind, you should replace the battery regardless of the test results. A leaking battery is nearing the end of it's lifespan so you might as well change it now instead of getting stranded in the middle of nowhere later on.

SatinSilverTypS

iTrader: (1)

i had a nearly identical problem on my old ford taurus due to internal corrosion in the battery cables (meaning beneath the protective jacket). replacing them solved my problem. just something to keep in the back of your mind.