TylerStami

Hi guys, new member here. I have an 01 Tl and had issues starting as of last year. Randomly started running like crap, wouldn't stay running won't constant throttle. Then started to not want to run at all. I replaced plugs and it would start, then same day it wouldn't start again. Brand new alternator was put in as well. I recently tested one of 6 cylinders and had VERY low compression. Now trying to test the rest but have to get another battery due to letting it sit over the winter like a dummy. Any help would be awesome or any other test I should try. It has spark, fuel pressure but no compression on one cylinder. Maybe hopped timing if 3 more cylinders are low but that's the only leads I have!

TylerStami

edit to original post
I also removed timing cover, belt looks fine and is still tight, starting fluid helped crank but still wouldnt start. May add more as I continue to think. It's been a while since I tried messing with it

frankjnjr

Additional info. would be very helpful. Any history on the car? You said " Randomly started running like crap, wouldn't stay running" etc Prior to having these issues, how was the car running? How many miles? Any clues as to maintenance history. How long have you owned it? After you replaced the plugs, you said " it would start" How did it run when it started? Low battery voltage can contribute to issues. No, or little compression on any cylinder is a serious problem. Were all plugs removed to perform the compression test? Did you do both a dry, and wet test on the one cylinder you did test? You said " had issues starting as of last year". What kind of starting issues did you experience at that time, ie. extended crank time before start, starts and than dies,starts but runs poorly, starts, but won't idle, etc? Answers to these questions may help fellow members assist you in trying to determine the root cause.

frankjnjr

It would also be important to know EXACTLY which Brand and Part Number spark plugs you installed.

TylerStami

Sorry! New to this and forums lol but the car was running beautifully. Right now it has 159k miles, maintenance has been perfect as it's been in my family since it was bought brand new in 2001, it would run with the new NRG plugs that autozone recommends for the vehicle. It did have a 5 volt drop when running which led me to replace the alt. Afterwards it ran fine, then acted up again and wouldn't idle at all without constant throttle. Just did a dry test on one cylinder. It started and ran poorly, then went to starting and then die almost instantly. Crank time was usual as well. Sorry again for the poor explanation.

TylerStami

And as of now it wont run at all it turns over with a fully charged battery but wont start

Iggy

sounds like idle air control valve(IACV)

is the check engine light on?

frankjnjr

DITTO, IACV . Still can't understand ZERO compression on the cylinder you tested. You may want to re-do your test, making sure the gauge is working properly.. Not sure which NRG plugs Autozone sold you but, it is not prudent to use ANY plug in this engine, other than the Acura/Honda OEM recommended NGK PZFR5F-11. If you search this forum, you will find several threads which outline problems resulting from the use of non OEM recommended plugs. Dealer price = $23.73 ea. Ebay lists them for $8.85 ea. with free shipping. These plugs are expensive, but they will easily last for 100,000 miles, so, well worth the cost.

TylerStami

Noooo. It wasn't at ZERO compression, it was at 52lbs, which may as well be 0 lol and the plugs I replaced were the original plugs to my understanding. I'd have to pull them again to give you a part number but it wasn't the plugs allowing it to not start. I've had more than one gauge on it as well.
I was told more than likely jumped timing, just trying to find the time to get back out to the garage and get a better reading on more than one cylinder.

TylerStami

and yessir, that light has been on for a while, I will find the pictures of the codes it was throwing and post them.

frankjnjr

You advised " maintenance has been perfect ", was the timing belt changed at around 100K? If the plugs you installed are not NGK PZFR5F-11, than they are not the correct plugs. Although the NGR plugs Autozone recommended would not cause a no start problem, they are still not the correct plug for this engine. With proper maintenance, these engines are bullet-proof, and will easily go 300,000+ miles. If the timing belt was not replaced at 100k, than there is a good possibility it did jump time, which would explain the low compression, as well as the no-start problem.

TylerStami

when my father owned it, he had more than just the timing belt replaced at the 100,000 mile mark. Not sure on the plugs, at the time when it was running shitty, first thought was to change the plugs, not sure on when they were changed last before then so I started with them and went from there.

TylerStami

when I say "perfect", i mean everything that needed done, was done on time and as needed. Now as to the plugs, again I'm not sure on if they were the exact part number you are referencing.

TylerStami

the first half of its life, the car was in Florida, drove by my grandfather, then when he passed it was brought up north to Ohio, which would make me believe that the "newer" belt probably needed to be changed a bit sooner due to the more harsh, cold winters it has been through vs Florida weather. It was just a random and sudden change of the engines issue.
correct me if I'm wrong

frankjnjr

In my opinion, the difference in climate, Florida vs. Ohio, would not negatively impact the timing belt life expectancy. Even with low compression on one, two or even three cylinders, if you have spark, and fuel, as you stated you do have, the engine should start, especially after introducing a dose of "starter fluid". If the timing belt was replaced at 100K, and the engine now has 159K, it would seem unlikely that the timing belt is the problem. The symptoms described in your initial post, point to an IACV issue, as Iggy advised. Please post the result of your complete compression test, and verification that the engine is getting spark, and fuel. It is also puzzling that even though your malfunction indicator lamp is on, there are no engine related trouble codes.

TylerStami

yes, if I have the videos from my old phone, I took some of fuel, spark and the amount of compression on the engine. And believe me I am just as confused. I've had a few come to my house to look at it and are just as puzzled. I have no reason to b.s. about what was and wasn't replaced either. And as you said it was even worse that there wasn't any engine related codes thrown.
could there be potential of it being a wiring issue?
my buddies car was recent doing the same exact thing and ended up being a wire rubbed raw in his wheel well due to him being on a lowered suspension. I am not lowered, although his car is a Subaru.. lol

frankjnjr

Any thing is possible! Why not get back to basics: 1. Does the engine produce spark? Does the engine generate fuel? Easy enough to check. Crank the engine over a few times, than immediately remove a spark plug. Is the plug wet with fuel, yes or no. Than, while the plug is out, attach it to the coil pack and see if it has spark. If the engine is producing spark, and is being supplied with fuel, it should start! If it will not, when supplied with both spark, and fuel, than the no start issue is elsewhere. Perhaps a ground, a sensor or even an immobilizer issue. First things first, spark and fuel, yes or no?