HEy guys..., I'm getting LED for the tail lights. What can I do so I don't have the brake lights indicator on the dash. Should I put resistor? or something else can I do beside taking the bulb off the dash. thanks...

 

I'm getting LED for the taillights. And I heard if you have the LEDs, you'll have the brake lights indicator on the dash. What can I do to get rid of the light on the dash? Beside taking the bulb out on the dash.

 

Does your brake light always stay on or something? If so, you may be low of brake fluid.

Getting LEDs for your tail lights won't have anything to do with the brake light indicator on the dash, but to answer your question, just pull out the bulb from inside the dash.

 

ignore it like me? "sad"

i've given up.. and i dont wanna rip up the dash for one light.
i forgot what its like to have a dash without warning ligts..

maybe theres a way to bypass?

 

LEDs may indeed require a Load Resistor in order to keep the flash rate normal
and prevent the systen from thinking it has a dead bulb- triggering the brake lamp light

Some LED sets are now sold as `Load Balanced`- Im guessing thats a resistor built inside it

I put leds on the bike and a simple resistor solved the flash rate
vleds.com has them for 10 bucks with a heat shield around it
There are threads on installng it too

 

The reason for that is your cars computer thinks your bulb in burnt out. LEDs don't use much power and don't put out enough current draw (LOW resistance) needed across the terminals of your tail, signal, or break light.

What is required is not normal resistors, but high wattage resistors. Reisistors which are capable in handling power upto 20-50 watts. Do not even think about using little electronic resistors that are low wattage. These resistors must be large and powerful otherwise they will melt!

 

WHy do I need use high wattage resistor? It's only a led tail light. they're using low wattage. Because is LED.ANyway where can I get the resistor from? Radio shack, maybe? THanks

 

Because it has to be capable of dissipating the heat w/out destruction. 50 watt size sounds a little overboard but that would be even less likely to overheat. You are just trying to simulate the same load on the circuit as if the original bulbs were being used, so the system doesn't sense what it believes is an open bulb(s).

Also used resistors on bike as 01tl described after installing LED signals, to retain flash rate. It should work.

 

Taking the dash apart is NO big deal. It's very easy and you could have that bulb out and the dash back in place in about 15 minutes. The only screw you would need is the philips head to unscrew 4 screws holding the gauges in place. VERY SIMPLE. I've done it like 3 times in the past week to fix some lighting problems. It will be cheaper and easier for you to just do that. Don't worry about the resistors or load balancing blah blah blah. Just go in there and pluck the bulb out.