my boy bought a 2002 Acura TL, and it is misfiring, sparks plug has been changed so the mechanic said next step is to change the coil, he plugged in the computer and it read that #3, #4 & #5 is misfiring so my boy is trying to save some $ since the coil seems easy to replace, does anybody know which coils are they? or a picture/diagram of the coils number?

 

Back of engine
123
456
Front bumper

 

thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

any chance you would know how to get the code for the radio?

 

There's a trick to get the radio to display a certain code. You can call the dealer and give them that code (and maybe VIN) and they can retrieve the code for you. Search "radio code" and the thread should come up.

 

multi cyl misfire codes often mean just 1 coil is failed (of 6)
buy 1 coil at parts store
Install on first cyl in code list, reset ECU by pulling CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for 1 minute then reinsert- that forces a master reboot and self test--
drive and recheck codes
keep moving the new coil until car runs better
must reset ecu each time or it doesnt know you have made any changes

sometimes you can pull the power lead to a coil and see if the rpm changes.
not the best way to find bad coil but sometimes is a shortcut

 

what spark plugs??--use only NGK Iridium or iridium IX, or NGK Platinum

not bosch or acdelco or other brand they sold you for 2 bucks each~

Our plugs run about 8 dollars each

 

im not sure what they used but honestly that is a good question i guess when we pull out the coil we will pull out a spark plug also to see what type of spark plugs they used, thanks for the info, i always use NGK, i used bosch once on my old Acura Integra and i had to replace them in 4 days

 

ok so you already know about acura and ngk--good
pull the suspect cyl plugs before buying a coil--if wrong brand that may be all your problem

if correct- buy a coil and follow the procedure posted above
reset ecu is the most important each time,, or engine doesnt know you changed parts,,goes off old stored info of bad part..gives false codes

here is a tip- you can pull all the plugs in listed cyls as possibles--the one with wet looking plug (fuel) or plug tip looks distorted- not flat- melted etc,,(wrong plugs)
that cyl has a bad coil~

good luck!! keep us posted-there may be other issues to work thru
dont be afraid to get the codes ckd for free at parts store,, if they dont loan the scanner tool (refundable deposit on tool)
Only way to know if the codes stay clear is to ask the ecu!

after 1st time with you watching- you know how to plug the scanner in -on their parking lot
It goes in the small pull-out panel behind shifter-
between seat heater buttons- that back piece pops out and a multi pin outlet is waiting to give up its info~

 

thanks alot, this was some really good info and you was right, it was only 1 coil, it was coil #1 we checked all the other coils as well,

 

also the check engine light went off, I know it's still early but it hasn't turned on yet, the car drives and feel way better, again thanks alot, next issue is to try figure out how turn off the SRS light & ABS light, and hopefully figure out what is the code for the radio lol

 

look in the diy threads
depending on year, there are ways to get the radio to give up its code
or you can get it online by VIN for free or 10 bucks- your choice
info probably in the diy

look under the hood fuse covers, and side of glovebox door or under cup holder--sometimes owners or dealer writes it down
some years have a white label with code under a fusebox cover

 

diy also has reset srs light

if it comes back on see.. dealer for 10/150 warranty on it

 

ok cool I checked on the side of the glovebox and there was nothing there, but I will check the other places also, as for the srs light I think I will tell him to take it to the dealer, it's a 02 and it doesn't have 150k, but for real thanks alot for all the useful info, honestly I tried other forum, and till this moment I haven't gotten an answer back, I'm stick to Acurazine from now on

 

In case you missed my post

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/pull-up-serial-code-radio-02-03-model-725143/

 

I saw your post, thanks, sorry I didn't really get a chance to search for it I wanted to help my friend out with car vibration and CEL, but I did see the thread thank you for searching it and posting it here, if I can't find the code for radio around the car then that will be the next option, guys again thanks alot for the help, these are helpful info you guys have provided so far, thanks

 

the srs light,,,if the car had any electrical work done recently- that can trigger a false srs light
thats why you try to reset procedure if unsure of cars history
if it comes back on- its a real code

needs radio code,, Im guessing it had a dead battery

 

register as new owner with acura 1-800 382 2238 x5 gets a human
ask if all recalls are done- there is a new one for airbag inflator

 

if i have to take a guess i'll say yes it had a dead battery, do you think this will cause the SRS light to turn on?

the previous owner had a subwoofer box in the trunk he disconnected the factory sub to install a aftermarket sub, i also see the car has a aftermarket alarm siren, besides that the car seems to be stock

 

was the srs light on from the moment buddy got the car?
lets assume they worked on electrics with battery connected... and go for a reset SRS first
If that doesnt fix it then go to dealer for warranty
I say reset because if its not the warranty prob, they can and will charge for the diagnosis time

normally a dead batt wont trigger the srs light, just locks the radio and nav if equipped--thinking they have been stolen since removed from power source

new TL owners need to register with acura and ck recall status- 1 800 382 2238 x5 need cars vin

 

Radio/nav. code retrieval: https://radio-navicode.honda.com/

 

total'd always has the links!! what a ziner!!

 

i forgot to mention the TCS light is on. is this suppose to be on? we push the button to see if it will turn off or blink but it stays on, is this normal? is there a DIY fix for this?

 

TCS system is OFF when dash light is ON
push button with engine running to turn off
Defaults to ON when you start the car

If it stays on- get the codes read at parts store

does the cruise control work? and the ABS brake system?
failure of those would indicate bad speed sensor at a wheel

 

his ABS light is on and we had the car on lift and the rear passengerside caliper is seems frozen, but the mechanic said it can be because the car has been parked over 6 month, to drive it around to see if it will loosen up, what you think?

 

DO NOT drive with a suspected bad caliper--and that will freak out a speed sensor and trigger abs light

remove it- pop the piston out--if it comes out it wasnt siezed~
rebuild kits with new seals are less than 20 bucks- honda has the right ones
RR caliper seems to fail more often the driver side

complete rebuilt rear caliper at parts store about $75-100 usd
see brake threads for bleed order

 

mechanic is charging him $125 brake pads not included

 

Hi there! I have a 03 acura Tl-s and has about 109xxxK on it. the other day I was on the freeway doing 65-70mph and all of a sudden I felt the engine acting weak and starting to shake a little bit and the engine light came flashing for good 5 sec. I slowed down to 55mph and flashign engine light disappeared. took it to a local shop an they plugged in the comp and "p303" code came up. They say you number 3 coil is misfiring. just to get an idea from here, how much you guys think I'm looking at to be spending here? would it makes sense if I change all 6 of them to save labor price? HELP! -Jan

 

number 3 is the driver side rear coil
they run about 50 bucks each at parts stores
no need for all unless all failed,,its usually just 1
diy time 10 minutes
amazing they got a single code- most often it says multiple cylinders

it may or may not be # 3 is the bad one~
install new coil there and reset the engine computer `ECU` by removing the CLOCK fuse -on passenger end of dashboard, after 1 minute put fuse back in
its the secret backup power to ecu and forces a relearn of system to ck new part

drive and see if its better- recheck for codes

allen wrench required to remove coil, see spark plug DIY for more help about the retaining clip for power lead and exact tools required

 

those with multi cyl codes: start at the first one listed, install coil, reset ecu- drive, if not better move new coil to next position and try again
repeat until correct place found

the system knows there is a problem, but not always exact on its details

 

an easier method is to get the multimeter out and ohm the coils, find the one that has the odd resistance compared to the others, that will be the bad coil. Spend less time and don't guess at the issue diagnois the issue don't try the hit or miss method of poking in the dark which one it is.

Also lossing the platnum tip of the plug will cause a misfire as well, so the plugs should be inspected as well as the coils. Personally I would ohm the coil packs and if they ohm out pretty close to each other then I would pull the plugs looking for the bad one.

 

That sounds much easier- have you done this on a TL?
If a coil is intermittently failing (possibly when it heats up) this method might not reveal the bad one- ?

 

well if you check while the engine is cold it may not show up if the issue is cause by thermal expansion, but if you take it for a drive get it hot then disconnect the connector to the coil and measure resistance it will show up.

Now if the issue is in the seconday winding then you'll never be able to see it using the ohm meter but usually the primary is the issue and the winding you would be testing by checking restantance at the connector. A coil is a coil does matter who makes them, a primary winding inside a secondary winding, votage is input on the primary side, induction occurs transfering the power to the secondary winding and then to the plug, They are all the same only difference is the package the windings are enclosed in and the number of turns they have, the higher the turn ratio the higher the voltage output.

 

or for the person without a multimeter or skilled in its use--not everyone has a real toolbox on here so
we have the: follow the computer method
it says 1 3 and 4 are bad--start at 1, then 3 then 4! or go backwards if you like

there are some who pull the power wire off a coil to see if running changes-
and still NOT spot the bad coil..differance too subtle at idle

whatever method works for you-go for it
Im sure fsttyms1 suggest the replace and reset method for a reason

 

Meters are so cheap now everybody should have one if they touch their car.

 

what we believe should be in everyones toolbox,,, and reality,,, are a bit different

While many of us are good at diy and diagnosing, others are not as skilled with tools
Tell them to probe a wire and they will freak out

example: daughter and coolant prob on non acura, freaked out phone calls,,overheating, cant find a fuse marked fan...cant figure out which fuse is blown by looks....
barely able to ck oil level before adding oil , let alone double ck its enough after fill~

Lets take various methods and present them here!!--something for every skill level

If you have tested TL coils and multi meter works, please make a diy with pics for others,,,its sure beats guessing and moving coils around!! thanks

 

if you don't have a real toolbox then you shouldn't being trying to fix a drivability issue. the computer tells you that there is a missfire on cylinder 1, 3 and 4 doesn't state it's a coil issue you assumed it is a coil issue.

what it doesn't tell you is if the coil is bad causing it, doesn't tell you if the injector is not working right and causing a lean charge, or telling you if the voltage to either is weak causing the problem, so a multi-meter is required to diagnois the problem to find the issue, either a sorted injector or coil pack or a low voltage reading because of a corroided connector or broken wire, it doesn't tell you the plug is cracked or that the platnum tip is burned off causing the issue, yet all will create a misfire condition and set the same code.

But if hunting and poking is your approach to using the computer to each their own.