We'll see tomorrow...

Today things were fine... Then out of nowhere, in around-the-town driving the car started jolting - the engine was hitting higher than normal RPM's before shifting - which was rough. It got progressively worse as I drove straight to my mechanics shop. I didn't take it higher than 45mph. RPM's were pegged at 5,200RPM... 3rd or 4th or 5th were basically all 1 gear... Manually putting it in 3,4,5 changed nothing.

After a few miles the CEL and TCS light were on. When I got to the shop the car wouldn't go in reverse.

When I went back later tonight to drop off the key and note, I started the car and the TCS light was off and the car could go in reverse - though it was 'rough' - jolted backwards. The CEL was still on.

Within the past few weeks I've noticed a slight roughness in shifts. It wasn't anything too noticeable, at the time... though, it made me really think about looking at options to get rid of the car.

For the past couple of months, I've noticed that occasionally at WOT (when merging onto the highway mostly - as that's the only time I'm ever close to WOT - I baby the car) the engine will bounce off the rev limiter before it shifts. Perhaps unrelated - though notable.

• Car has 119,xxx miles.
• The car was included in the extended transmission warranty.
• The 2nd gear oil jet was fixed.
• No apparent leaks
• No D5 flashing
• No noises or smells
• Idles normally

The irony? I took the car to CarMax last Monday to see what they would give me for it... I think it felt that betrayal?...

 

should have taken their offer!!
it must be like the azine trans curse--the carmax curse-you have 7 days until failure~

upper gears all stuck together and bouncing at heavy load = guess what
Yes it will be ok for a day then act up--thats what they do--
its been giving every signal to you for a few weeks now--while you continued to push it getting on the freeway...

 

do the standard visual- dipstick fluid color and smell

the recall had nothing to do with the wearout failure of clutch disc/packs

 

Shop got these codes:
P0700 ("Transmission fault")
P0730 ("Incorrect gear ratio")

So I have to get it from the shop to my local Acura dealer for service.

 

dealer for service? like what--a change of fluid is not going to solve your problem

Now I can be wrong- it happens- may be totally unrelated to failed trans

you are over the warranty limit on miles-
do you have a great relationship with the service dept???-- in order to get you Goodwill assistance from acura on a trans?
or have your own extended warranty?

 

Huh? dealer for service.... repair, fix, work a miracle?? Sorry, wrong wording?

(The only relationship I have w/ the dealership is my family has purchased 4 cars from them... including this one. But other than that, no.)

 

sounds like the torque converter. i see it all the time on hondas and acuras. i work for b&m transmissions in texas. what happens is the torque converter fails and ends up clogging the internal filter(reason for it not moving when it warms up) and then trashes the rest of the clutches. you need a rebuild and a new converter. i recommend a Precision converter ive had the best luck with them. acura will only put acura parts in it and you will be in the same boat your in now again.

 

Acura service diagnosed it as.... a bad transmission. They would replace it with a 'rebuilt' transmission. $5,100 parts & labor from Acura. They contacted Acura Corporate who agreed to cover 80% of the cost. Also, since Corporate got involved, it will come with a 3yr 36k mile warranty instead of the 1yr/12k.

Also,
Right side engine mount cracked - $229 w/ transmission (Service advisor actually said that this 'was probably caused by the transmission' - could I be a pest and see if they can cover more of the cost of this?)
Right lower ball joint bad - $145 w/ transmission

They didn't mention specifics or anything about the torque converter.

He said the rebuilt transmission actually only re-uses an older case and the internal components of the transmission are all new.

I'm waiting on the service advisors call to authorize the 'repair'.

This is still a lot of money for me - but it at least means the car is worth fixing.

We'll see how this goes.

I wonder if a replacement and 3yr warrantied transmission is worth anything to CarMax and/or another dealer. I would like to think so?

I always felt bad for the guys that posted up here about their crummy transmission failing... Really cruddy. I really thought I dodged the bullet when mine turned over 100k and was smooth as butter.

 

$1000 for a new tranny? Wow, I would run to the dealer and get that all in writing. That's a hell of a deal.

 

change the side mount yourself. It's the easiest one to do.
Have them change out both lower ball joints. If one if bad, chances are the other is going to be shortly.

 

well glad to hear your keeping the car on the road, to save a little more money do change out the side mount yourself its easy. had my tranny replaced for 1k last year, others better grab the goodwill coverage before its all gone. Im surprised you were able to get coverage this late, good luck with everything.

 

You sure they said right side mount and not the front mount? They usually try to throw in front mount r&r during a transmission replacement. If they actually did say the right side mount, if money is a concern, it's simple to do yourself. The part is around 50 bucks and takes maybe 10-20 minutes with no special tools required.

Ball joint, the part I think is around 30 bucks, so they're probably asking for an hour of labor. Doesn't seem too bad but of course an experienced tech can do both in an hour or less.

 

The other side was replaced a year or so ago.

I suppose that is lucky. I dumped $1k into the car 2 weeks ago for essentially all new brake components.. so this hurts a little.

Right side is what they said. If it were decent weather and I wasn't so busy, I might do it myself... but at this point I'll just let the 'professionals' take care of it :/

They got the transmission in today, so the car should be done today or early tomorrow...

 

speak with the service manager--
First: express your extreme gratitude for the goodwill assistance--thats who dealt with corp on your behalf--donuts go a long way as thanks~

Then ask for info on the `side motor mount`- the part is 50 dollars and labor 1/2 hour for the passenger side mount- regardless of trans installed or not
If they meant the `front mount`- behind radiator, but actual left side of engine--then its a big deal if trans removed-
the part is 150$ plus 3/10 of 1 hour to replace about 30 dollars
With trans in, they get like 3 hours!
and often service writer accidentally forgets to modify the labor in computer to - with trans removed, so it bills 3 hours

Whatever it is, get it done- but knowing what and correct price are part of the deal
Dont expect service writers to know squat--not real techs for the most part-just salesmen of repairs

When you get a partial goodwill -where you pay some- you are able to purchase a 3/36 for $300--its included in the price given
and yes, IF someday way down the road you should decide to ever sell your baby, a fresh trans with some warranty is a very good thing compared to a TL with old trans

Be careful what you post- as acura found an old post of a ziners car for sale,, that was asking for goodwill now- they approved then revoked the offer- despite explanation that ad was old, car had recent major repairs and were going to keep it..they didnt care, offer revoked!

goodwill is from your family owning 4 acuras --thats keeping a good customer happy,,smart plan for them

what you actually get on their trans:
A case from post 2005 with external oil jet kit moved inside, and better oil passages cast into the case itself--much better with that mod,, but still not perfect trans,, as we all know--
treat it right and enjoy your life,,
change 3 qts fluid every year is the best you can do for it

Units come with a new or rebuilt TQ as the old ones are full of clutch material~

the `hard parts` inside- being metal gears and shafts- are measured, cleaned, and inspected for within limits- if bad they are tossed and melted down
If good- they go in a box of useable parts the assemblers grab from to build `fresh` trans

the soft parts like clutches, bearings etc--all get new
Acura uses their stuff, which may not be the very best- but will be fine for the deal you are getting

congrats--go speak with service manager now

 

^Thanks for all your info.

I double-checked with the service advisor and he said it is the right side engine mount - and the front looks ok.

I was looking into the real-world worth of my car to see where I stood - really just so I could avoid this exact situation - spending thousands on a car that isn't worth very much for me in a sale.. But with a new transmission and all new brakes - the risk of another costly repair is significantly reduced.

 

thats the primary wear out parts we have--
not bad considering many cars with 100-150kmiles are ready for the recycle yard-
while we replace a few belts and hoses--and motor on~

 

Picked up the car last night. Actually came out a few hundred less than quoted.

The transmission is smooth as butter - shifting is almost unnoticeable. I kind of remember that feeling from years ago.

They also replaced the ECU.

 

certain VINs get a new ecu with slightly different shift programming

You may notice it holds 1-2 slightly longer when dead cold,, and shifts slightly harsh in those gears when cold
Its part of the new ecu setting to get the engine warm faster, so it gets off the `full rich` start mode

 

I lost my seat presets which I had not changed in 3 years. I just can't get it back to how it felt before - ugh. Haha.

 

LOL the right side is easy to replace. Like 30 mins. Typical Acura rip off. I think it cost like $80? If I remember right.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59Kc577zCA8

 

I must have been one of the lucky ones when I lost my tranny in my '03 TL last Dec with 101K. Driving home, turned a corner CEL and TCS both light up. All gears still alive and running smoothly, temp o.k. Got it home (1.5 more miles) checked possible problems, but nothing looked abnormal. Got in it the next morning, no warning lights. Drove 30+ miles at >70 mph, approached off ramp, gearing down it started jerking, couldn't catch the top gears, still had first three and reverse. This was a Sunday, no doubt! I had a meeting, so car had a chance to cool down, started and ran o.k. for first five miles and same thing. I parked it at my office that was much closer to dealer-about 3 miles. Took it into Lyle Pearson in Boise, ID and not only did they diagnose as an internal problem they told me that my VIN# was within the scope to extend warranty on tranny to 127,000 not just the 100,000. So they kept it a week gave me a brand new MDK to drive free for the week, paid for the gas, put in the new tranny and it has run just as it should since. They did catch me for the front engine mount at $275 (since it was already pulled apart) and showed me where it was fried (I didn't argue the point that it probably got fried from the tranny getting too hot)...but other than that, it was a sweeet ending to what I thought was disaster!

 

they raised it to 127 now? it was 109 last anyone knew,,thats good to know

they bent you over on the front mount- its 150 part and 15 minutes labor to install when trans is removed,,but they need some profit in the deal~

front mount is very common part failure, and is found with trans death when tech looks at it and sees oil leaking, also fixes that mystery vac leak you had

get on a program of changing the fluid every year- 3 qts honda atf, while its in warranty- should have a 12/12 on trans replaced under full warranty--unless thats changed too
congrats and enjoy getting half a new car for free!!!!!

 

a thank you note to the service manager, and all 10s on the survey cards and calls goes a long way towards more Goodwill--especially if you need anything in the future--

those survey cards that come with your receipt,, get read at corp- data mined for good employees--or not so good.
Acura thinks anything less than 10s is a fail grade- the SM should be able to make customer happy before they leave the shop- is the idea

they are passed around at weekly shop meetings and discussed
If a service writer, manager or tech really was good to you- name them!!

helps them come bonus ck time

 

So something upsetting has happened within the last week or so.

Occasionally, the front of the car will jerk/shake. It's not shifting gears - as speed isn't significantly changed.

The best description of the "feel" I can give is it's as if you're driving on ice/snow and you hit a few consecutive patches of drive pavement. The front end tugs/shakes.

I've noticed this at about 2k rpm @ 60mph while very gently accelerating - (just enough to get the car to a slightly higher speed on the highway - not merging or anything)

 

like coming out of convertor lockup? that downshifting feeling, but more exaggerated?

how are the cv/axle bearings?

 

call the service manager and ask if the head tech can take a quick ride with you to demonstrate the prob and see if its a trans related issue

thats what warranty is for- if its bad--it happens~

 

[quote=01tl4tl;12676058]like coming out of convertor lockup? that downshifting feeling, but more exaggerated?
Maybe? Like, it's engine braking - but rougher.
I don't know. There are any noises or feelings otherwise.
Yeah - I think that's my next step.

Also, there's a Mait Req'd light on. Was flashing on start up - now solid.

 

[QUOTE=jayunsplanet;12677824]The Maintenance Required light is related to oil change intervals. If to you still have your Owner's Manual you can look in there for the reset procedures. If not there is a sticky somewhere about it at the top of the 2nd Gen TL page.

 

I know how to reset that light. The fact that the indicator came on and I'm having an issue at the same time is ironic.

I was curious though - since I got a new ECU, are all the old maintenance intervals set in there as if the car was new?

 

there are no stored intervals except 7500 miles for oil change on the mait req light

As we all know but for the noobs= it starts blinking about 6000-6500 miles and goes on solid at 7500
nothing but a counter of miles since you last reset it at oil change

 

My shop diagnosed it this morning. Apparently, when they took it out in the morning (after I dropped it off last night)... it was misfiring across the board. They say spark plugs and coil-packs.

Also notable, they found regular old spark plugs in there rather than the recommended plugs (the name is escaping me at this moment). I know exactly how that happened - years ago, I took it to a shop that I never go to and they screwed other things up - this must be another hidden gem.

 

install ngk iridium plugs, reset the ECU to clear codes, see if that fixes the misfire
if not- continue to coil testing--if anything its probably 1 coil not all 6 has failed