Larry1030

I am seeking help with my 1999 Acura TL with about 140K miles.

A week or so ago I started having issues starting it. The starter would not crank, SOMETIMES. Turn the key to "Start", no crank, but the solenoid clicked. This happened just once or twice, and each time if I turned the key to Start a second time the engine cranked vigorously and started immediately.

Then one time it wouldn't crank at all, no matter how many times I turned the key. I got someone to give me a jump but still no cranking. I called a friend for help and a I ride home. It took him about 20 minutes to get there - and when he arrived we again tried to jump it and it started right up!

I wanted to rule out the possibility of a bad battery although it did crank vigorously when it cranked at all, so I took it to Advance Auto and had them test the battery and their tester said my 4 year old battery was defective, so I bought and installed a new one. It started fine. But later that day, the intermittent problem recurred - I turned the key to Start and the solenoid clicked but no crank, then I turned it a second time and it cranked vigorously and started right up. I put this down as possibly the new battery not having a full charge.

The next day (yesterday) I drove about 250 miles. This should have fully charged the battery. During this trip I started the engine 6 or 8 times without issue. (BTW, there is no problem with the charging system - the battery reads ~12.6V with the engine having been off for awhile, and ~14.5V with the engine idling.)

But today, the problem recurred. And this time, no matter how many times I turned the key to start, the engine wouldn't crank. I tapped on the solenoid and tried again, to no avail. I used a clip lead to jump straight from the battery (+) terminal to the solenoid activation (coil) terminal (with the wire removed from it) with the Key in the IGNITION position - the solenoid clicked loudly but no cranking. I let the car sit for a few minutes (while I stewed) and just on a whim tried again. It started right up.

I think my testing and the behavior indicates the problem is either the solenoid (sticking, perhaps pitted/corroded contacts?) or the starter - (intermittent thermal sensitive open circuit in windings?)

Would like to know if you all agree with my diagnosis before I replace the starter and solenoid (it doesn't seem the solenoid is available separately in any case). Does it sound like one of those is the problem?

thoiboi

Good legwork


Replace starter it's dying.

TonyNY27

Sounds like a problem I had awhile back. Mechanic changed the battery cables and the problem came back. He changed out the fuel relay and it fixed the problem. Did you try a different key also?

Larry1030

Follow-up

I replaced the starter today. It took about 3 hours including going to the store to give them the old and get the new one. The bottom starter mounting bolt is a bit hard to get to and had I should have removed the battery tray support bracket bolts before the battery tray bolts. Failing to do that caused the bracket to bend but I was able to restore it. Other than that, everything went smoothly.

The new starter is working perfectly. Time will tell if the problem is solved but I cannot imagine what else it could be.

Am attaching some photos in case anyone else wants to take this on.





old starter





old starter





engine compartment driver side with battery, battery tray, bracket and coolant overflow tank removed.





Bell housing with starter removed.





New starter. Looks identical to old.





New starter.





New starter installed.





Driver side of engine compartment after installing the new starter. The battery tray bracket, battery tray, coolant overflow tank and battery still need to be reinstalled.

01tl4tl

while in there ck the battery NEG cable- it likes to come loose inside its connector that bolts to the car frame, under battery

Larry1030

I've finished the job (didn't take any photos after reinstalling the battery tray, and battery because you all know what it looks like). In case there is still a problem I will follow your advice. Meanwhile, as you can see in my last photo, there are two cables attached to the negative battery connector. Where does the other one go?

01tl4tl

to ground?

Be aware the 99s have a weak ignition switch back- the electrical part - likes to cut off in turns or act weird = its time for another one,,may need up to 5 in its life!
50 bucks and a look at our DIY will fix you up
Was replaced one time under recall many years ago, then on the owner after that