Car is a 2000 3.2TL, and I got the CEL flashing on my dash today. I was sitting at a light, and the car shuddered/shaked and felt like it was going to stall. Idle dropped from the usual idle to approx 250 rpm on the tach. after about 1-2 seconds, it caught and then the CES started flashing. The car ran like crud, shaking terribly until it got over about 2500 rpm. IF i tried to accelerate quickly, the shaking was incredibly bad, like I'd had an accident or something!

MY mechanic told me about a year ago about the FSB for the EGR port that acura put out, but my car was already over mileage to be covered. He suggested I drive it until it becomes an issue.

On the way home I went by an auto store and got car code read. IT said that a number of cylinders are misfiring. Reading about the issue, I am under the impression that it might only be one coil, and to try swapping in one good one until the problem is solved(like old style xmas lights!!!!).

I figured I should read about the EGR port too, and ended up pulling the plastic cover and the upper cover in the IM.

To my horror, it's the dirtiest I've ever seen any engine of mine. Yes, even dirtier than my 307 Chevy with 2 bad cylinders and 380,ooo mi!!!!

So I am going to do the spark plugs, and get a new coil pack. I am also going to pull the IM and TB and thoroughly clean them both. MY main concern is the volume of oil on/in the intake manifold. I know it's nasty looking, and would like some feedback about anything to look for that might be causing this problem.
Here's a few pics.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as this is my DD and right now not going anywhere!

Thanks

Top of intake manifold:


Inside of IM cover:

 

yep - thats what they look like inside when you pull it apart to clean the EGR and install a thermoblock spacer. Run some engine cleaner at next oil chage and dont worry.
The EGR port gets plugged- its no big deal to remove the entire intake manifold and clean it out.
the diy has everything you need to know
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156252
The EGR valve itself either works or it doesnt- the prob is usually the plugged passage
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs are preferred by many ziners

 

^ thanks for the quick reply.
I intend to pull the IM and clean everything out, and had read that link, just that my intake looks so different(must be different year or model)than the one in the link, I didn't want to blindly proceed. The one in the link has nowhere for the oil to collect like mine does and that made me pause. That one also looks like the IM in the service bulletin here: http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF .

I know next to nothing about honda/Acura, but I'd think that if that part of the IM is that dirty, and the EG passage is that gunked up, the EGR port must be pretty clogged!

Thanks for the heads up on the plugs, is there anything I should look for in regards to the oil in the IM? I wouldn't think that oil could come through the bolts? seeping out from the EG passages?, it's hard to tell from the pics, but the right most parts of the IM have almost 1/2" deep oil in them, all the way to the left there's about 1/8" or less.

 

I think its a 99 in the pics- the bolts are all in the same place though, so the procedure is the same.
I have seen pics same as your before- its not a problem
Clean everything out including washing water thru the intake
- the bulletin talks about an drill bit but that ONLY for the dealer when installing a tube insert that was supposed to fix the problem- it didnt
Use carb spray- toothbrush- be nice, and it will clean up
Dont forget the IAC under the throttle body base

 

^thats ONLY for the 99. the 00+ are different. We just need the little tracks cleaned out on the little cover and the 6 holes cleaned out in the IM (required you to remove it. Also there is a 2nd link in the DIY thread with what i did)

As for the oily substance, i dont know how its getting in there, but it IS normal

 

alright, removed and cleaned the IM and the TB. Changed the plugs and got a new coil. The first time I started it, it ran rough, so I swapped the coil to the next cylinder.
My luck musta been high, cause the 2nd try it started up quiet and smooth, with no flashing CEL on the dash. Took it for a little test drive to the auto store, and it no longer brought up an codes.

The car drives like it should now. Thanks alot everybody!

|M|

 

Do an ECU reset, just to let the car relearn how to run with everything clean
passenger side footwell area I think, fusebox- fuse #8 clock backup fuse
that the real power for the ecu

Or if you know the radio security codes (everyone does by now right?)
disconnect the battery and clean the terminals for fun. Discon the batt will make a reset too.

A good seafoam treatment will make it run like new

 

^heh. I have the seafoam, just waiting for the gas to go down a bit. I had just come from filling up my tank and was going to wash the car when it started acting up.

I know the codes for the nav and radio, not a problem, and did the reset in addition to having the battery out.(well out for working on/around the IM and TB, just disconnected when I moved the coil pack)
I keep the terminals very clean, because when I got the car there was so much corrosion, you could harldy see the terminal! Right away I added a new clamp and corrosion pad on the battery, but the copper cable is infected, so I clean it everytime I fill my gas(as well as check oil, etc)
My last two DD were a 91 Rx7 and a 71 GMC truck, so I know about maintence to say the least! lol

|M|