So my car has been dying on me while driving for the past month. The dash will just light up and I find a spot to pull over right away. Sometimes I can start it, other times it's as if the battery is dead so I have to get a jump. The jump starts it right up. After replacing a battery, and mutiple system and alternator checks, everything still passes. I pulled the battery cable off while the car was running, and it didn't turn off so I ruled the alternator out. Only thing left would be the ignition switch. According to MYAcura, the recall has already been fixed on my car(owned maybe 3 months), so it was time to shell out some cash of my own. Picked up one at Autozone for a little over $50. Was going to do a video of the install and ran into a problem.

I pulled everything apart, unplugged the switch from the socket, and unscrewed it from the column and then realized the alarm is wired into the switch. There are open wires everywhere and this just doesn't look like a Acura Dealer job. My alarm has not been working from the remote since I got the car. I figure maybe the immobilzer or these open wires are killing the car. I don't know how to check though. I tape up the wires, and put the old switch back. Went driving, and it still nearly died.

Is there any way to put this switch on without splicing into the wires on the new switch? Can I just leave the alarm wires off until I can take it to a shop and get it looked at, or will something get damaged. I see my dash dimmer is wired into it as well and it's not currently working so maybe someone screwed the wiring up. I have no original radio, and the navi comes on when it feels like it.

 

Is it an aftermarket alarm ?

 

Hey Rebirth82, that's quite a mess you've got tucked away in the black tape.

Judging by the overall appearance, I'd be very surprised if that was something that an Acura dealership would've done at the time of the recall work for the ignition switch.

It'd be safe to assume that whoever replaced the factory radio and alarm, butchered the wiring. It appears unsafe and needs to be all redone utilizing a wiring schematic to get it all back to normal working order. Unless you feel competent enough to undertake this challenge, perhaps it would make sense to leaving a pro tackle this mess ! Yuk.....!

 

I have no idea. The honda remote won't program to it. The receiver in the window says echo on it and has a button. Not sure what each setting is on a button press. I did leave it on once though and it killed the battery. It was daytime, and I didn't see the l.e.d in the window until the next night.

 

I'm hoping an Acura dealer wouldn't do something like this. I've never see this type of crappy work at Honda. There is no radio in the car right now. Maybe they replaced the factory with aftermarket, and then took it with them, I have no idea. I don't usually worry about things like a radio when I purchase a car. They are $100 installed everywhere. I really am thinking about just unplugging the old switch without taking off wires and leaving it hang while I plug up the new switch and see what works, and what doesn't. I don't want to splice into the new switch and void my warranty just to find out the car is still shutting down from something else. I can't afford Acura fees. Recalls should be taken care of for the life of the car.

Oh I also found out the hid was completely gone after I purchased the car. I didn't realize the brights were on, and when I did I assumed the bulbs had burned out. Turns out the entire kit is gone. No bulbs, ballasts, nothing. The shop has to make a custom kit just to get it to work properly. I was planning on just getting the transmission rebuilt since it's hard shifting during startup. Gonna cost $1400-$1600. Going to make sure they use the right fluid. I may just sell it and buy a newer tl, or a pilot. Driving 200+ miles a day right now in my civic, and need the second car.

 

I pulled the old switch off again and just left it hanging with the wires it was attached to. I put in the new one, changed the battery terminals since one was kind of loose. Jumstarted it, and the lights are still on dash, and still dim. I tested the battery which usually passes but now it says flat, and there are no lights for the altenator at all. maybe it is going out, or maybe something is missing from the wires that are not attached to the new switch. battery is at the store charging, so going to put the old switch back on again tomorrow, and test with battery again. I may end up sucking it up, returning the switch, and having it towed to Acura, or Honda since it's closer to me. I'll post tomorrow once I check it again. Any ideas that would save me $125 for a Acura diagnostic, + more $$$$$$$ for the repair would be appreciated.

Picture is with the car on

 

If you recently replaced the battery, and you're still experiencing starting issues.....chances are that the alternator is going bad. You have several different things going on, but need to have a good working electrical charging system in order for the car to start. There could be a problem with the main cables from the battery, check connections....especially ground.

If you're able to get the car started with a fully charged battery, you may be able to make it to the nearest auto parts store to have the electrical system checked under load. If you can't get the car going, consider removing the alternator from the car and take it to have tested. Remove the drive belt, a couple of mounting bolts and a wiring connector......not all that difficult. A rebuilt alternator will be less than $200.

I'd tell you how to bypass the switch and jump the starter, but it can be tricky and is not advised unless you understand the basics along with the risk.

 

Starting isn't uaully a issue. It's the shutting down while driving. Once that happens, I have to have a jump. I have been to both Avance, and Autozone multiple times to have the battery and alternator tested while running, and with everything on. Everything always passes. I can never get to the auto store when the lights on the dash are on though. I can't get them to come on on demand. It just randomly happens when I am no where near to get it tested. Right now is the longest they have ever been on, even when I jumped the car, but the battery also showed flat. I picked it up from the store today fully charged, but have had so much work do do, so no time to go check it. It's also raining so I would like to stay alive rather than die playing with a battery in the rain.

I initially thought it was the alternator, but after the passing tests multiple times, and reading about other people having the same issue, I wanted to check the switch.

 

More than likely, something is shorting out and causing a drain on the battery.
A wiring schematic would be helpful. Check any and all connectors, grounds, etc.
There are tests on the battery that could indicate a slow scavenger drain upon it.

 

you ``changed the battery terminals` what does that mean???
you cut off the cable ends to battery and replaced them- on original wires?

I would go for new batt cables and new extra ground wires from frame to engine, acura kit, or make you own from parts store bits for the small grounds,,

A bad main batt ground will really screw with you
If there was blue crud growth at batt terminals/cables ,its inside the 10+ year old cables
just age is reason enough to replace them

 

Hey just an update and to thank everyone for their help. I ended up putting the factory switch back since I didn't want to cut into the new one like the old one is. I was testing the battery and alternator that same day and wasn't getting much reading from the alternator for the first time so I took it to have it tested. It had failed but for some reason would always pass while is was in the car. Reason for failing was the power steering fluid got inside of it and fried it. Previous owner didn't have a cap on it when I purchased it.

Ordered a used one from http://www.automotix.com/ way cheaper than the parts stores, and it came with a 1 year warranty. It came pretty fast, had it tested first and it passed. I put it in, and so far so good for about two weeks now. I was going to change the alt belt and power steering belt and hoses while I was at it, but I am getting my trans done soon. I don't want them to toss brand new Honda fluid, and put cheap stuff in it. Also the power steering belt looks like a major pain to get on and off. Looks like the engine mount needs to be removed first.

I was going to do a video and add it to my youtube channel but holding a camera and getting the alt in is impossible. I'll do a writeup if someone needs it.

 

I cut off the end of the wires, and also changed the metal connector parts to a red and black one like my civic. They have a more tighter connection, and you don't have to wonder which is negative and possitive. The terminal wasn't corroded, but the connectors were not real tight although this wan't causing the problem. I started with the cheapest stuff first though.