If the drain plug for transmission fluid is too tight to break
If the drain plug for transmission fluid is too tight to break
Want to drain and refill my ATF 3 times. But the plug is too tight. With normal 3/8" ratchet I can't turn it, not at all.
What should I do?
Brake bar or fixed head torque wrench is not an option as the position of the plug is not ideal w/o lifting the car up.
Cannot afford to buy an impact wrench/driver.
What should I do?
Brake bar or fixed head torque wrench is not an option as the position of the plug is not ideal w/o lifting the car up.
Cannot afford to buy an impact wrench/driver.
If you can't break the drain plug, you're gonna have a hard time breaking the fill plug. Break the fill plug BEFORE you brake the drain plug.
I did it with just a regular ratchet. Hit the end of the ratchet with a mallet a couple times. Remember, counterclockwise to open.
I did it with just a regular ratchet. Hit the end of the ratchet with a mallet a couple times. Remember, counterclockwise to open.
If you can't break the drain plug, you're gonna have a hard time breaking the fill plug. Break the fill plug BEFORE you brake the drain plug.
I did it with just a regular ratchet. Hit the end of the ratchet with a mallet a couple times. Remember, counterclockwise to open.
I did it with just a regular ratchet. Hit the end of the ratchet with a mallet a couple times. Remember, counterclockwise to open.
I think I have to get a mallet and PB penetrate oil.
Probably my 3/8" ratchet with low leverage. Need some longer ratchet.
slide a pipe over your ratchet for instant torque generator
spray wd or pb or dc on the threads as able,,let sit overnight and repeat
old school trick- when it doesnt want to loosen- try to tighten slightly
add some taps of hammer to help break corrosion bond
then loosen- should come off for you then
its a very common problem- seems well past its 29 foot lbs spec torque (same as oil drain plug) but years of neglect and the dissimilar metals react
wont hurt to put a little spark plug anti-sieze on the threads before install
spray wd or pb or dc on the threads as able,,let sit overnight and repeat
old school trick- when it doesnt want to loosen- try to tighten slightly
add some taps of hammer to help break corrosion bond
then loosen- should come off for you then
its a very common problem- seems well past its 29 foot lbs spec torque (same as oil drain plug) but years of neglect and the dissimilar metals react
wont hurt to put a little spark plug anti-sieze on the threads before install
I had the same problem....the mallet worked like a charm 
Use the dipstick to fill with a slim cone, like a turkey baster with endcap removed.
This drain bolt doesn't need to be super tight as it already has washer on it.
Use the dipstick to fill with a slim cone, like a turkey baster with endcap removed.
This drain bolt doesn't need to be super tight as it already has washer on it.
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Using the dipstick hole would take forever. Still, I had to break my fill bolt via a breaker bar with a pipe over it. Was on there TIGHT. Plenty of room though, so not a problem.
this is a common problem of stuck bolt after many years of sitting
the atf drain plug has a torque spec of 29 foot pounds
same as the engine oil drain bolt
torque/tightness is very important!
you dont want to strip out threads being too tight
or lose the drain plug and all the fluid on the road,,, from too loose~
the atf drain plug has a torque spec of 29 foot pounds
same as the engine oil drain bolt
torque/tightness is very important!
you dont want to strip out threads being too tight
or lose the drain plug and all the fluid on the road,,, from too loose~
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