Iacv
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10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
Iacv
Hey, I have an 03 TL TYPE S and installed ported runners and got a CEL for IAC, so my car revs by itself only when I put it in park after driving it just revs by itself without me touching possible throttle body issue or IACV? Reset CEL never came back.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 331
From: Newport beach
is it revving higher or lower than the normal idle speed?
IACV works by bringing UP the idle speed to a setpoint.
higher: check for vacuum leaks
lower: check the IACV further
check page 11-148 in the service manual for further details, let us know what you find.
IACV works by bringing UP the idle speed to a setpoint.
higher: check for vacuum leaks
lower: check the IACV further
check page 11-148 in the service manual for further details, let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
10th Gear
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
Vaccun leaks
Hey thank you for replying I checked for vaccum leaks possibly around throttle body the gasket seems to be really old, and my IACV haven’t checked to see if it is that yet or not. And yes it idles to abour 1-1500 k when I put in park
I am dumb
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 788
Likes: 208
From: Nashville, TN
The definitely sounds to be the IACV. I've encountered this issue enough times.
What I usually do is take the IACV off, and I'll clean out the holes using a little bit of brake cleaner. Then I'll dump that out, and put some WD-40 in there, and while it's in there, I'll hotwire the IACV to a battery. Basically, and I do not recommend doing this sort of thing because it's obviously not safe and I don't want to be held responsible for any injuries, I connect a wire to each terminal of the car battery, and I will connect the wires to the appropriate pins in the IACV. It should click, turning the part inside the IACV. I will connect/disconnect a couple of times to help the WD-40 work it's way into the small crevices, which should help with cleaning it out and lubricating the moving parts. This usually works out well for me and keeps them lasting. It would definitely be easier to just get a new one altogether, but OEM isn't the cheapest, and people often have issues with aftermarket.
This was something I recently had to fix on a CL that I have been converting to an automatic (formerly a 6 speed). The IACV was not working when I had bought the car, and was doing the up/down revs as you described. When I went to give it power with the battery, it wasn't clicking, at all. It was completely dead. Thankfully, I had another one hand, but it did require some cleaning. Now the car idles perfectly.
As for testing for vacuum leaks, what did you try?
What I usually do is take the IACV off, and I'll clean out the holes using a little bit of brake cleaner. Then I'll dump that out, and put some WD-40 in there, and while it's in there, I'll hotwire the IACV to a battery. Basically, and I do not recommend doing this sort of thing because it's obviously not safe and I don't want to be held responsible for any injuries, I connect a wire to each terminal of the car battery, and I will connect the wires to the appropriate pins in the IACV. It should click, turning the part inside the IACV. I will connect/disconnect a couple of times to help the WD-40 work it's way into the small crevices, which should help with cleaning it out and lubricating the moving parts. This usually works out well for me and keeps them lasting. It would definitely be easier to just get a new one altogether, but OEM isn't the cheapest, and people often have issues with aftermarket.
This was something I recently had to fix on a CL that I have been converting to an automatic (formerly a 6 speed). The IACV was not working when I had bought the car, and was doing the up/down revs as you described. When I went to give it power with the battery, it wasn't clicking, at all. It was completely dead. Thankfully, I had another one hand, but it did require some cleaning. Now the car idles perfectly.
As for testing for vacuum leaks, what did you try?
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