How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors
06-17-2010, 07:37 PM
#1
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors
I GOT IT!
Pitboard link to full article:
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Pitboard link to full article:
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Thanks fer readin'!
Marcus
949-295-1668
Pitboard link to full article:
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Originally Posted by mrheeltoe
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors
I hate these screws. Most European cars don’t even have them, but for some reason the Japanese feel the need to equip their cars with them. The reason they are there is to hold the rotor securely to the hub of the car once the wheel is removed. If you look at how the whole assembly of hub/studs, rotor, wheel, and lug nuts fits together, you will see that these screws serve no purpose once the wheel is installed. The screws exist merely as an unnecessary assembly aide.
Their function is so superficial, in fact, that they are made out of what must be the softest metallic substance on the entire car. Under any load from the brakes, I can imagine these screws’ heads popping off instantly. Alas, they are on the car holding the rotor in place and must be removed in order to change rotors (another insufficiently designed component of the Honda/Acura braking system, but that is another blog topic...) The process of removing these screws appears to be as simple as grabbing a phillips head screwdriver and giving them a twist.
Unfortunately, life creates it’s own interesting moments when it is realized that even a very minimal amount of unseen corrosion or galvanic action LOCKS these bad boys in place, causing the screws to strip with ease. Once these guys are stripped, you need to grab a drill and bore out the heads to get them off. I have done this drilling more often than I have had the miraculous joy of actually removing the screws properly. I never want to do it again.
Let’s say, I were to stop writing here. One might no doubt search their favorite message forum and read all of the wonders of a tool called an impact driver. This tool is a sort of screw-driver with a spring-loaded twisting action that works when the handle is hit with a hammer. The idea is, the hammer forces the driver into the screw while the spring action twists the screw just enough to break it free. Much of the time, and impact driver is the perfect tool for the job. But I content this method is no sure-fire way to unscrew these screwy screws without possible need for the drill.
Problem one with the driver is, not everyone has one, and not everyone who changes brakes every 2-3 years wants to buy one. In order to get one that works reliably, you’ll need to spend enough money that you might well have paid someone to do your brakes for you. I’ve used cheap ones, and broken them almost instantly. Bonus…before they broke, they stripped the screws.
Problem two, even with a good driver there exists an estimated 10% chance you’s strip a screw anyway because the screws are just that bitchy.
So here is my SURE FIRE, WORKED EVERY TIME I DID IT WITHOUT FAIL way of removing the rotor screws from your brake rotors. It involves two simple tools nearly everyone has in their tool box.
I hate these screws. Most European cars don’t even have them, but for some reason the Japanese feel the need to equip their cars with them. The reason they are there is to hold the rotor securely to the hub of the car once the wheel is removed. If you look at how the whole assembly of hub/studs, rotor, wheel, and lug nuts fits together, you will see that these screws serve no purpose once the wheel is installed. The screws exist merely as an unnecessary assembly aide.
Their function is so superficial, in fact, that they are made out of what must be the softest metallic substance on the entire car. Under any load from the brakes, I can imagine these screws’ heads popping off instantly. Alas, they are on the car holding the rotor in place and must be removed in order to change rotors (another insufficiently designed component of the Honda/Acura braking system, but that is another blog topic...) The process of removing these screws appears to be as simple as grabbing a phillips head screwdriver and giving them a twist.
Unfortunately, life creates it’s own interesting moments when it is realized that even a very minimal amount of unseen corrosion or galvanic action LOCKS these bad boys in place, causing the screws to strip with ease. Once these guys are stripped, you need to grab a drill and bore out the heads to get them off. I have done this drilling more often than I have had the miraculous joy of actually removing the screws properly. I never want to do it again.
Let’s say, I were to stop writing here. One might no doubt search their favorite message forum and read all of the wonders of a tool called an impact driver. This tool is a sort of screw-driver with a spring-loaded twisting action that works when the handle is hit with a hammer. The idea is, the hammer forces the driver into the screw while the spring action twists the screw just enough to break it free. Much of the time, and impact driver is the perfect tool for the job. But I content this method is no sure-fire way to unscrew these screwy screws without possible need for the drill.
Problem one with the driver is, not everyone has one, and not everyone who changes brakes every 2-3 years wants to buy one. In order to get one that works reliably, you’ll need to spend enough money that you might well have paid someone to do your brakes for you. I’ve used cheap ones, and broken them almost instantly. Bonus…before they broke, they stripped the screws.
Problem two, even with a good driver there exists an estimated 10% chance you’s strip a screw anyway because the screws are just that bitchy.
So here is my SURE FIRE, WORKED EVERY TIME I DID IT WITHOUT FAIL way of removing the rotor screws from your brake rotors. It involves two simple tools nearly everyone has in their tool box.
How To Remove The Rotor Screws From Your Honda/Acura’s Brake Rotors HeelToeAuto.com's Pit Board
Thanks fer readin'!
Marcus
949-295-1668
06-17-2010, 08:25 PM
#2
harbor freight tools has a good impact screwdriver for 10 bucks
a tool every diy'r should own
The author above is incorrect- the intent of the retainer screws is to hold the brake rotor assembly together as the car is ~flown thru the air~ at the factory- with no wheels installed until late in the process
so the screws keep it all together, no rotor falling on someones head~
The wheel lugs are what holds the whole thing on tight
Proper torque, correctly applied, and the retainer screws are not required
Many people have to drill them out with carbide bit and leave them out
for the rears- the park brake is mini drum brakes inside the rear rotor hub
Its helpful to have the screws there to keep hub alignment good while installing the wheels
a tool every diy'r should own
The author above is incorrect- the intent of the retainer screws is to hold the brake rotor assembly together as the car is ~flown thru the air~ at the factory- with no wheels installed until late in the process
so the screws keep it all together, no rotor falling on someones head~
The wheel lugs are what holds the whole thing on tight
Proper torque, correctly applied, and the retainer screws are not required
Many people have to drill them out with carbide bit and leave them out
for the rears- the park brake is mini drum brakes inside the rear rotor hub
Its helpful to have the screws there to keep hub alignment good while installing the wheels
06-17-2010, 09:42 PM
#3
harbor freight tools has a good impact screwdriver for 10 bucks
a tool every diy'r should own
The author above is incorrect- the intent of the retainer screws is to hold the brake rotor assembly together as the car is ~flown thru the air~ at the factory- with no wheels installed until late in the process
so the screws keep it all together, no rotor falling on someones head~
The wheel lugs are what holds the whole thing on tight
Proper torque, correctly applied, and the retainer screws are not required
Many people have to drill them out with carbide bit and leave them out
for the rears- the park brake is mini drum brakes inside the rear rotor hub
Its helpful to have the screws there to keep hub alignment good while installing the wheels
a tool every diy'r should own
The author above is incorrect- the intent of the retainer screws is to hold the brake rotor assembly together as the car is ~flown thru the air~ at the factory- with no wheels installed until late in the process
so the screws keep it all together, no rotor falling on someones head~
The wheel lugs are what holds the whole thing on tight
Proper torque, correctly applied, and the retainer screws are not required
Many people have to drill them out with carbide bit and leave them out
for the rears- the park brake is mini drum brakes inside the rear rotor hub
Its helpful to have the screws there to keep hub alignment good while installing the wheels
Harbor Freight. That's the one I broke. I've only ever "needed" it for rotor screws, and for the last 3 years I haven't needed one at all, due to the writeup above.
Regarding the screw existing for automotive assembly at the plant, I'd respectfully call your assertion an assumption. One that I shared in the past. But not being privy to the ACTUAL real honest reason why the screws are there, I don't feel comfortable telling people this. How high in the air do they fly the car? How do you know the calipers are not put on immediately after the rotors are installed, making the screws a moot point? We don't really know, so I can't be more wrong that you could be really.
Besides: It seems odd to me that they would tool and manufacture hubs and rotors and source the screws expressly for the purpose of a single production step. Not very lean. I feel like they have a greater notion in mind involving serviceability. But, this is sort of semantics. A little harsh calling me "incorrect" don't you think Tom?
As far as the screws aligning the rotors in the rear...I disagree. Rotors are (or should be) hub centric. The screws do effectively center the wheel in lieu of the hub centricity not being there, but that isn't normally the case.
Marcus
06-17-2010, 10:20 PM
#5
I've got a cheap way using tools you already have to remove the rotor screws.
First soak the screws in WD40 (or other rust penetrating products) for as long as you can. Then find the largest phillips screwdriver that still fits the screw head snugly. Take a pair of large vice grips and secure them to the round part of the plastic screwdriver handle where the metal shaft goes in.
Put the screwdriver into the screw head and using the vice grips for additional leverage, carefully "rock" the screwdriver back and forth, feeling for the "grab" applying more force when you feel it. Eventually the screw head will break and out it comes.
I know this works as I've used it several times for this exact application.
smartypants.
First soak the screws in WD40 (or other rust penetrating products) for as long as you can. Then find the largest phillips screwdriver that still fits the screw head snugly. Take a pair of large vice grips and secure them to the round part of the plastic screwdriver handle where the metal shaft goes in.
Put the screwdriver into the screw head and using the vice grips for additional leverage, carefully "rock" the screwdriver back and forth, feeling for the "grab" applying more force when you feel it. Eventually the screw head will break and out it comes.
I know this works as I've used it several times for this exact application.
smartypants.
06-17-2010, 10:58 PM
#7
marcus- let me apologize, didnt realize YOU were the author!~ really need to wear my glasses!!
For the few times a ziner will remove the screws- either your chisel method (I admit to having done that many times in the past)
or an impact driver are about equal
I used mine on stubborn painted over screws to remove house door hinges
as for the flying cars- I base my statements on viewing tv programs made in various car factories. Wheels go on pretty late in the assembly- less friction to move them on a rack system
even with the calipers and pads on, it may not have been to hydraulic fluid install yet,, and the pads dont rest againt the rotors
Then the more I thought about it - I realized their other important job is holding everything in place when it arrives at wheel install- where a very cool giant air gun with however many lugs your rims use-it has that many sockets loaded with the lugs in the correct pattern to mount-
a human moves it into place and pulls the trigger
all the lugs tighten at once- bringing the torque up equally to the spec...
we have to do a slower step by step process with single lug at a time or risk damage to axle hub, rotors, wheel..
Does that make sense?
on the rears: to clarify- the rear screws hold the rotor on flat to the hub for adjusting the park brake,, with caliper and pads installed
once the wheel lugs are on - and were put on right and torqued properly- thats what holds the rest to the axle
For the few times a ziner will remove the screws- either your chisel method (I admit to having done that many times in the past)
or an impact driver are about equal
I used mine on stubborn painted over screws to remove house door hinges
as for the flying cars- I base my statements on viewing tv programs made in various car factories. Wheels go on pretty late in the assembly- less friction to move them on a rack system
even with the calipers and pads on, it may not have been to hydraulic fluid install yet,, and the pads dont rest againt the rotors
Then the more I thought about it - I realized their other important job is holding everything in place when it arrives at wheel install- where a very cool giant air gun with however many lugs your rims use-it has that many sockets loaded with the lugs in the correct pattern to mount-
a human moves it into place and pulls the trigger
all the lugs tighten at once- bringing the torque up equally to the spec...
we have to do a slower step by step process with single lug at a time or risk damage to axle hub, rotors, wheel..
Does that make sense?
on the rears: to clarify- the rear screws hold the rotor on flat to the hub for adjusting the park brake,, with caliper and pads installed
once the wheel lugs are on - and were put on right and torqued properly- thats what holds the rest to the axle
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 06-17-2010 at 11:02 PM.
Trending Topics
06-17-2010, 11:00 PM
#8
another trick on any tight screw or bolt: try to tighten it slighty first- may break the bond and allow easier removal
06-18-2010, 05:50 AM
#10
06-18-2010, 08:30 AM
#11
great info/suggestions here 
thx
this will come in handy very soon since my rotors/pads are in really bad shape
thxthis will come in handy very soon since my rotors/pads are in really bad shape
06-18-2010, 09:41 AM
#13
Drifting
I've got a cheap way using tools you already have to remove the rotor screws.
First soak the screws in WD40 (or other rust penetrating products) for as long as you can. Then find the largest phillips screwdriver that still fits the screw head snugly. Take a pair of large vice grips and secure them to the round part of the plastic screwdriver handle where the metal shaft goes in.
Put the screwdriver into the screw head and using the vice grips for additional leverage, carefully "rock" the screwdriver back and forth, feeling for the "grab" applying more force when you feel it. Eventually the screw head will break and out it comes.
I know this works as I've used it several times for this exact application.
smartypants.
First soak the screws in WD40 (or other rust penetrating products) for as long as you can. Then find the largest phillips screwdriver that still fits the screw head snugly. Take a pair of large vice grips and secure them to the round part of the plastic screwdriver handle where the metal shaft goes in.
Put the screwdriver into the screw head and using the vice grips for additional leverage, carefully "rock" the screwdriver back and forth, feeling for the "grab" applying more force when you feel it. Eventually the screw head will break and out it comes.
I know this works as I've used it several times for this exact application.
smartypants.
Another thing w/ these screws- if the head breaks off make certain to grind off any remaining portions that may protrude so the rotor will sit flush on the hub.
BTW Marcus, great tip using the chisel. I'll remember that.
Last edited by totaledTL; 06-18-2010 at 09:45 AM.
06-18-2010, 11:54 AM
#14
The impact screw driver is okay, but if your screws are really frozen, the impact screw driver may work as good or worse then a regular screw driver. the thing is, the spring on the impact driver should do the twisting for you as you hammer it, but the spring is not strong enough, so I had to apply more twisting power to it from my hand, and as I twisted and hammered it, it twisted itself to the other direction. If you already have a good regular screw driver with a big philip head, you can hammer it and twist it with you hand. I bought the impact screw driver, but my regular philip screw driver did the job after the impact screw driver failed on me. Spray wd40 and give it 5min, and it will come out.
06-18-2010, 12:09 PM
#15
Through all the postings we have made in our marketing network, I am really surprised at all the comments this has spawned. (although not on the actual blog site, which I find pretty odd...).
Most people are really supportive and like the write-up. Most of those people have interjected their input as far as how they get the screws off. All that is great! For the record, I am perfectly aware that there are a great many ways that one may remove these screws. I prefer this method because it is the only method I have used in the last 14 years that has not once necessitated getting a drill out. In the hundreds of screws I have removed and the half-a-dozen or so methods I have used, this one has NEVER FAILED ME. For an unprofessional and inexperienced DIYer, that is of utmost importance; reliability of process.
Surprisingly, I have only had one critic saying the method was idiotic, and saying they "would actually be embarrassed for even suggesting this method." My retort was simply that "buying $20 tool to remove screws that really should not exist and will be thrown away is idiotic."
Obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat. But reliability, consistency, predictability, and VALUE...all these are the traits that make a part or a process HT-SPEC!
Marcus
949-295-1668
Most people are really supportive and like the write-up. Most of those people have interjected their input as far as how they get the screws off. All that is great! For the record, I am perfectly aware that there are a great many ways that one may remove these screws. I prefer this method because it is the only method I have used in the last 14 years that has not once necessitated getting a drill out. In the hundreds of screws I have removed and the half-a-dozen or so methods I have used, this one has NEVER FAILED ME. For an unprofessional and inexperienced DIYer, that is of utmost importance; reliability of process.
Surprisingly, I have only had one critic saying the method was idiotic, and saying they "would actually be embarrassed for even suggesting this method." My retort was simply that "buying $20 tool to remove screws that really should not exist and will be thrown away is idiotic."
Obviously there is more than one way to skin a cat. But reliability, consistency, predictability, and VALUE...all these are the traits that make a part or a process HT-SPEC!
Marcus
949-295-1668
06-18-2010, 12:10 PM
#16
I tried this. The problem is not the twisting leverage, or not having a big philip head; as you twist the screw driver will slip out that is the problem. you don't have the power to keep the philip head inside the screw. if the philip head can surely stay inside the screw, it can be removed in 5 seconds.
I've got a cheap way using tools you already have to remove the rotor screws.
First soak the screws in WD40 (or other rust penetrating products) for as long as you can. Then find the largest phillips screwdriver that still fits the screw head snugly. Take a pair of large vice grips and secure them to the round part of the plastic screwdriver handle where the metal shaft goes in.
Put the screwdriver into the screw head and using the vice grips for additional leverage, carefully "rock" the screwdriver back and forth, feeling for the "grab" applying more force when you feel it. Eventually the screw head will break and out it comes.
I know this works as I've used it several times for this exact application.
smartypants.
First soak the screws in WD40 (or other rust penetrating products) for as long as you can. Then find the largest phillips screwdriver that still fits the screw head snugly. Take a pair of large vice grips and secure them to the round part of the plastic screwdriver handle where the metal shaft goes in.
Put the screwdriver into the screw head and using the vice grips for additional leverage, carefully "rock" the screwdriver back and forth, feeling for the "grab" applying more force when you feel it. Eventually the screw head will break and out it comes.
I know this works as I've used it several times for this exact application.
smartypants.
Last edited by acutee; 06-18-2010 at 12:13 PM.
06-18-2010, 02:19 PM
#17
Or try using a big punch, close to the size of the head of the screw, quack it with a hammer a couple times to break loose the oxidation behind it, then use a screw driver to take it out.
06-18-2010, 06:03 PM
#18
OK - now,, how big a hammer should we use to get stuck rotors off?? lol
some of those make the screws look easy!!
the retainer screws serve a purpose or 2,,beyond being the bane of your existance
marcus= HT has a blog???
some of those make the screws look easy!!
the retainer screws serve a purpose or 2,,beyond being the bane of your existance
marcus= HT has a blog???
06-18-2010, 06:10 PM
#19
quick survey- how many here own the needed chisel for the marcus method?
or own a #3 phillips head screwdriver? thats the biggggg one in the kit with impact driver, most toolboxes contain only #1 and 2 size
some HFT tools are cheap and may fail you- so get a 25$ craftsman- on sale now half off for fathers day!!
or own a #3 phillips head screwdriver? thats the biggggg one in the kit with impact driver, most toolboxes contain only #1 and 2 size
some HFT tools are cheap and may fail you- so get a 25$ craftsman- on sale now half off for fathers day!!
06-19-2010, 07:26 PM
#21
quick survey- how many here own the needed chisel for the marcus method?
or own a #3 phillips head screwdriver? thats the biggggg one in the kit with impact driver, most toolboxes contain only #1 and 2 size
some HFT tools are cheap and may fail you- so get a 25$ craftsman- on sale now half off for fathers day!!
or own a #3 phillips head screwdriver? thats the biggggg one in the kit with impact driver, most toolboxes contain only #1 and 2 size
some HFT tools are cheap and may fail you- so get a 25$ craftsman- on sale now half off for fathers day!!
im just going to buy the impact driver piece for my impact wrench so i can get those screws off. i have an electrical impact wrench.... hope its strong enough... i think does 200lbs or force.
06-20-2010, 01:29 AM
#22
shoot some wd type stuff at the screws
try tightening them slightly then loosen, the tight ones are just stuck- not that tight by intent
Marcus and I have disagreed on this subject for a few years now, not our first conversation on the matter of what tool for the job~
I save the brute force tools for last,
as I work at a casual pace at home on my car,
while He has to get the screws out and a car fixed, got better things to do with his day!!
not only do I use the driver to remove the screws- I give them an impact tap on re-install.. to be sure they dont come loose!
try tightening them slightly then loosen, the tight ones are just stuck- not that tight by intent
Marcus and I have disagreed on this subject for a few years now, not our first conversation on the matter of what tool for the job~
I save the brute force tools for last,
as I work at a casual pace at home on my car,
while He has to get the screws out and a car fixed, got better things to do with his day!!
not only do I use the driver to remove the screws- I give them an impact tap on re-install.. to be sure they dont come loose!
06-20-2010, 03:25 PM
#24
I've used an "L" shaped screwdriver (similar in shape to an allen/hex key) with high success to remove those screws (after spraying with WD40). Get the largest head you can to fit into the screw, push against the "L" shape and turn....then cross your fingers. 
06-22-2010, 01:50 AM
#26
some of us prefer the right tool for the job, and others have learned to make do with whats on hand, still others find what will work~..even with a box full of snap on tools a few feet away--the big hammer and chisel remains a favorite...lol
I enjoy the air impact chisel using a hammer tip to bust the rotors loose~
so who am I to talk about finesse <g>
I enjoy the air impact chisel using a hammer tip to bust the rotors loose~
so who am I to talk about finesse <g>
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