Hey guys,

I've been a long time viewer on these forums but i've decided to make an account. Before I get bashed for not reading other threads, I most definitely have and have not found a solution to my issue.

So, I installed some Kensun fog lights in my vehicle, will be doing a relay kit later, but they just will not turn on.

Solutions I've tried
1. I checked polarity on both sides
2. I checked all connections
3. Checked ballasts and fog light fuse and lighting relays and all electrical functions.
4. Does not need to be grounded unless I use relay kit, (I tested it grounded regardless)

What we have figured out is the switch inside of the vehicle is not functioning properly and only works slightly when out of it's socket (Still will not turn lights on).

Now, when you press the switch in slightly, you hear a faint clicking sound under the passengers side dashboard in some place, and I'm confident that there is a relay switch down there somewhere but cannot seem to find it. Can somebody lead me to what the possible solution may be?

I believe I have eliminated all possible easy solutions so at this point I am not sure what it will be.

 

bad switch

can you run a temporary hot lead from battery to the light for operational testing?

 

Preferably not because I think I'd have to remove the bumper again since I mounted the ballasts on the bumper bar. I can access all wires from where the splash guard is located. How would I go about doing that? I'm not much of an electrician id prefer not to shock myself.

Thanks for responding

 

remove connections in use now, connect temporary lead wire from batt to pos on ballast
connect Neg/ground wire from ballast to a ground point on the car = test

to test switch remove from panel- it pops out iirc, ck for continuity/Ohms with a multimeter- free/$5 type at harbor freight tools is fine

 

The switch has some power going to it but not every wire going to it works. I have just set the lights up with a relay harness and still no luck.

 

Do the fogs work without HIDS? if you went back to halogen, would they work?

Be careful when running HIDs on stock wiring (aka without relay harnesses), there have been numerous people stating that it can burn/melt the existing wiring because of the extra current. Chances are the fog switch circuit has an issue. Bypass the switch and just short the two pins, does it turn on? if so, replace switch

 

Jcahill42, Have you ever seen the fog lights on and when? In relation to the car right now.

 

Nope these new HID lights have never gone on. The old stock ones worked until one of the housings cracked and I stopped using them. So I replaced the housing with the HID ones and now here I am.

 

Yes or no. Are the lights in there all new?

 

Lights as in ballist and bulbs.

 

Both sides

 

Everything is completely new. Lights, ballasts and all cables on both sides.

 

Before you do anything else in order for us to help you, you need to some how get the fog lamps to turn on at the bumper. No matter what it takes. Unless we get confirmation that the lights work it's a moot point.

 

In theory they could be defective... as is brand new, both sides.

 

So how can I test it without the switch because I'm assuming that it is the problem. There a way to just test the switch wires?

 

Unless we know the light works we are not testing anything else. So, do what ever it takes to get the lights to turn on at the bumper.

In other words start from the beginning. Test the lights itself as it came out of the box, as if the car is not there. Unless we can get confirmation that the lights work, it's a moot point.

Follow the manufature instructions to wire/power the lights.

 

Can you explain how I would short the two pins to test this? This would be so helpful!

 

How would I short the two pins on the switch to see if that's the actual problem?

 

sometimes you have to switch the two wires to lights, then they work

 

Which wires? When I pull the switch out, it's clipped onto a grey piece with a few wires coming out of it. And what do you mean switch the wires lol sorry i suck at this but I'm enjoying learning

 

 

Jcahill42, do you understand the diagram above?

 

he doesn't have a relay though.

OP, you'll need to somehow get power to the ballast by safely plugging the ballast directly to the battery. alligator clips or a 9006 pigtail if you have it.

Get a relay to be safe and test by de-pinning the input (where you would usually plug into factory bulb) and touching positive to + on battery and negative to -.

 

Yes I know. Thank you.

 

For now we just want to make sure the lights work.

 

Update: I put in a relay now because I did not want to harm the factory wires with too much current.

I just need a way to test the lights in their current setup but with bypassing the switch because I'm confident that it is the issue.

 

Awesome, then just energize the relay input by touching positive and negative terminals on battery

 

Hmm well I've connected one of the wires from the realy to the positive terminal and grounded to two random body parts near the bumper (Yes they were metal lol). What would I used to touch the terminals? I picked up these little 18 gauge 300 volt small alligator clip wires the other day. I'm kind of new to this stuff but i'm pretty motivated to learn a lot.

 

the 2 wires I mean are where they are `push to connect`
NOT the hot lead power wire to wire from battery to ballast
The round push-on type connector to a box- possibly the out wires from ballast to ignitor? (forgive my lack of remembering terms and knowledge buried in old files of brain)

directions with my low beams `kit` said if they don't work, try swapping them first!
Ck your instruction sheet!!

 

alright so you've connected the positive/negative leads OF your relay properly, now, you just need to energize the input to the relay with 12V so that it will let the headlights draw power straight from battery. The input is where you'd usually tap into the older headlight output. YOu can use two alligator clips but just make sure they don't short out.


just a stock photo from internet so the plug might not look the same but the one in green will need to be energized