help me identify this object found under the hood of my 2nd 2001 Tl
help me identify this object found under the hood of my 2nd 2001 Tl
I took over a 2001 TL with 149k on it. compared with the 2001 TL I owned since 2000, it has a lot of issues as I am the 3rd owner (1st owner in FL, 2nd owner in PA).
today I found this object - please see the picutre with notes.
I hope it is not a part of car but simply someone (previous owner or mechanics) left it there.
what is it - a part, a tool, a weight ?
today I found this object - please see the picutre with notes.
I hope it is not a part of car but simply someone (previous owner or mechanics) left it there.
what is it - a part, a tool, a weight ?
it definitely is a weight.
often times they come with brackets.
car makers place these weights to eliminate NHV or Noise Harshness and Vibrations
I dont think it was supposed to be where you found it.
often times they come with brackets.
car makers place these weights to eliminate NHV or Noise Harshness and Vibrations
I dont think it was supposed to be where you found it.
thanks for the tip. I compared the side engine mount of my good 01 TL with not-so-good 01 TL and indeed it should a part of attachment to the side engine mount and it is just rusted off. luckily it is heavy and square so it just sit there without causing any damage to the timing belt next to it.
Further, it is called Dynamic Damper for the side engine mount from acura parts diagram as I can see ? the bracket is still with the engine mount but the weight just falls off the bracket.
will try to "glue" it back; or buy a new damper.
Further, it is called Dynamic Damper for the side engine mount from acura parts diagram as I can see ? the bracket is still with the engine mount but the weight just falls off the bracket.
will try to "glue" it back; or buy a new damper.
Here is a quick simple fix: Just drill a small hole on the bracket on the engine mount and another hole on the damper. Now you can put a screw to hold it together. I don't think any glue will hold in that hot engine compartment.
I will order a new damper ($21 from acurapartswarehouse); I notice the engine has a little violent vibration when turning off. not sure it's related to the broken damper but I will try. thanks.
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damper/vibration
Hey Jliu789, while it's quite possible that the damper may be causing the vibrations when shutting the motor off, it would be worth investigating a bit further as 01tl04tl suggested.
With 150k on the dial, and not really knowing the maintenance history.....it could be any of the three main motor mounts or even the tranny mounts.
Once the front mount goes out, it takes the top passenger side mount out rather quickly. It's left to deal with all of the motor's torque force upon it. Double-check the side mount's rubber guts, as it may need replaced again.
I have the maintenance record from 2nd owner from whom I got the car. I don't see any engine mount replacement performed. as your guys suggest, I will have all engine mount checked out.
oh man, my own 01 TL (silver) has 142k and it has never any problem since 16 miles. this 01 TL (black) has quite a few issues that I need to address - I fell in love with the sound system the 2nd owner installed into it that I was totally blind to all mechnical issues when I bought it. those issues are so obvious now.
I will update once I install the new damper - it could be worthwhile to get the genuine damper as it's possible to attach the weight to the bracket by glue or screw but it's impossible to duplicate the effect of hard rubber between the weight and the bracket.
oh man, my own 01 TL (silver) has 142k and it has never any problem since 16 miles. this 01 TL (black) has quite a few issues that I need to address - I fell in love with the sound system the 2nd owner installed into it that I was totally blind to all mechnical issues when I bought it. those issues are so obvious now.
I will update once I install the new damper - it could be worthwhile to get the genuine damper as it's possible to attach the weight to the bracket by glue or screw but it's impossible to duplicate the effect of hard rubber between the weight and the bracket.
hi, gentlemen,
I got the damper by UPS. I have to take out the 35mm bolt (part 33) to replace the damper. I loosen up the bolt and unscrew it 10mm already. then it seems to me the bolt is the only thing hold part 8 and part 7 together. do you think it's ok to take out the part 33 bolt ? I don't feel much tension/pressure/weight when unscrew the bolt; but I am a little nervous so I stop.
appreciate your advice.
I got the damper by UPS. I have to take out the 35mm bolt (part 33) to replace the damper. I loosen up the bolt and unscrew it 10mm already. then it seems to me the bolt is the only thing hold part 8 and part 7 together. do you think it's ok to take out the part 33 bolt ? I don't feel much tension/pressure/weight when unscrew the bolt; but I am a little nervous so I stop.
appreciate your advice.
hi, gentlemen,
I got the damper by UPS. I have to take out the 35mm bolt (part 33) to replace the damper. I loosen up the bolt and unscrew it 10mm already. then it seems to me the bolt is the only thing hold part 8 and part 7 together. do you think it's ok to take out the part 33 bolt ? I don't feel much tension/pressure/weight when unscrew the bolt; but I am a little nervous so I stop.
appreciate your advice.
I got the damper by UPS. I have to take out the 35mm bolt (part 33) to replace the damper. I loosen up the bolt and unscrew it 10mm already. then it seems to me the bolt is the only thing hold part 8 and part 7 together. do you think it's ok to take out the part 33 bolt ? I don't feel much tension/pressure/weight when unscrew the bolt; but I am a little nervous so I stop.
appreciate your advice.
replaced. I guess site engine mount doesn't do much weight bearing so my thumb did the alignment when screw bolt back.
I feel the car runs smoother and quieter afterwards. still the car has a little choking vibration when engine is turned on/off . so there must be something else
next thing to attack: the plastic mounting handle (upper right) of air cleaner case is broken.
I feel the car runs smoother and quieter afterwards. still the car has a little choking vibration when engine is turned on/off . so there must be something else
next thing to attack: the plastic mounting handle (upper right) of air cleaner case is broken.
Hey Jliu689, Still getting a bit of vibration ? ....Have you inspected all of the mounts ?
Something to try, if you have not already done so....is to have another person at the driver's seat, while you're up in the front observing and listening for the source of this vibration. It should be apparent if it's only when the motor is being shut off.
Check the hood's rubber isolator's with hood down for a good fit, then inspect everything under-hood in the engine compartment for tightness and clearance. Try to isolate the specific area and side of noise, rather it be the entire motor unit or a basic component.
Something to try, if you have not already done so....is to have another person at the driver's seat, while you're up in the front observing and listening for the source of this vibration. It should be apparent if it's only when the motor is being shut off.
Check the hood's rubber isolator's with hood down for a good fit, then inspect everything under-hood in the engine compartment for tightness and clearance. Try to isolate the specific area and side of noise, rather it be the entire motor unit or a basic component.
I just checked - should have done this when replacing the damper - the side engine mount is completely bad (the rubber has crack, and even a bubble !!! (see the read circle in the pic). also it has only 2 bolts (instead of 3; the rear one is missing). the mount looks so old that it seems it has never been replaced; but then why one bolt is missing.
the front engine mount seems to be replaced as at least the bolt looks new. then again there are only 3 bolts (should be 4 to fix to cross beam);
when I got the car, it had tendency pulling to the right. Firestone shop did wheel alignment but it still pulled to the right. so all 4 tires are replaced as they said the tires (had only 28k on them) wore more to the right. so the weak side mount could be the issue ? ( I guess firestone just wanted to sell the tires and didn't look into the reason why tires were bad with only 28k on them).
having owned a silver 2001 TL for 12 years, I find I am completely a rookies for this troublesome pearl black 2001 TL.
ok. please don't look at the picture - I just replaced a brand new genuine Dynamic damper to a Dead engine mount.
the front engine mount seems to be replaced as at least the bolt looks new. then again there are only 3 bolts (should be 4 to fix to cross beam);
when I got the car, it had tendency pulling to the right. Firestone shop did wheel alignment but it still pulled to the right. so all 4 tires are replaced as they said the tires (had only 28k on them) wore more to the right. so the weak side mount could be the issue ? ( I guess firestone just wanted to sell the tires and didn't look into the reason why tires were bad with only 28k on them).
having owned a silver 2001 TL for 12 years, I find I am completely a rookies for this troublesome pearl black 2001 TL.
ok. please don't look at the picture - I just replaced a brand new genuine Dynamic damper to a Dead engine mount.
It's all part of the learning curve. You'll have all this experience and info to apply to your "chosen silver TL" , as eventually it'll have the same kind of growing old pains as the black sheep of the family.
Getting back to the black beauty..... I don't really think that the mount would be the biggest cause of the car pulling to the right. The overall alignment along with other suspension parts such as the tie rods may be worth inspecting a bit closer.
Things like control arms, rims and tires could cause the car to pull if damaged or worn.
The car could've had been previously wrecked in the front end, resulting in possible frame damage.
If the car still pulled after an alignment and new tires, either take it back to Firestone and have it rechecked or go to a different shop. Firestone makes more money selling tires than they do with alignments. Surely, they would stand behind their work.
Getting back to the black beauty..... I don't really think that the mount would be the biggest cause of the car pulling to the right. The overall alignment along with other suspension parts such as the tie rods may be worth inspecting a bit closer.
Things like control arms, rims and tires could cause the car to pull if damaged or worn.
The car could've had been previously wrecked in the front end, resulting in possible frame damage.
If the car still pulled after an alignment and new tires, either take it back to Firestone and have it rechecked or go to a different shop. Firestone makes more money selling tires than they do with alignments. Surely, they would stand behind their work.
update to engine mount
replaced side engine mount with OEM (from acura parts wharehouse), and front engine mount with Beck/Arnley (from RockAuto). total part costs $62 + $68. total labor cost 8 hrs at the rate of $0.
the vibration when idle and when turning off engine is greatly reduced. and the engine responds quicker and firmer.
the stock front engine mount that I took out still has decent rubber but I don't hear any liquid inside when shaking it; perhaps all oil (?) leaked out already ? or do we expect OME mount to have liquid inside.
the Beck/Arnley does have liquid inside and it has the lead that I connect the solenoid tube to.
the vibration when idle and when turning off engine is greatly reduced. and the engine responds quicker and firmer.
the stock front engine mount that I took out still has decent rubber but I don't hear any liquid inside when shaking it; perhaps all oil (?) leaked out already ? or do we expect OME mount to have liquid inside.
the Beck/Arnley does have liquid inside and it has the lead that I connect the solenoid tube to.
Did the original front mount still have the vac hose attached when you removed it ?
It's possible that someone had previously used the "non-vac assisted" Accord V-6 mount to replace the factory installed mount.
Beck/Arnley is a respected aftermarket brand. You mentioned that it had the vac fitting and that it was oil filled......Not a bad price for the better part. The labor to install the mount would've been more than you paid for the part.
It's possible that someone had previously used the "non-vac assisted" Accord V-6 mount to replace the factory installed mount.
Beck/Arnley is a respected aftermarket brand. You mentioned that it had the vac fitting and that it was oil filled......Not a bad price for the better part. The labor to install the mount would've been more than you paid for the part.
the front mount I took out has the vac fitting at the bottom attached. I can't find any model/brand so not sure whether Acura OEM. it is vac-assisted but definitely has no liquid left inside when I took it out.
If I recall correctly, you had previously stated that this mount had a bolt missing or something ? Chances are that somebody had worked on this before. The premium aftermarket parts are to be made to work the same as the original specs.
But, as we all know.....in this "global, ie: chinese" parts, there are inferior knockoffs. That's why it pays to get a better known brand with a warranty. The work involved with redoing the installing is a factor in one's choice of quality parts.
But, as we all know.....in this "global, ie: chinese" parts, there are inferior knockoffs. That's why it pays to get a better known brand with a warranty. The work involved with redoing the installing is a factor in one's choice of quality parts.
the new Beck/Arnley (from RockAuto) I installed is made in Taiwan. looks decent and solid. time will tell.
(the front engine mount had only 3 bolts to the frame; the side moount had only 2 bolts to the frame. so both had been removed once before; and it was not done by Acura dealer for sure).
my own 01 TL had side and front engine mount replaced by Acura dealer at 80k ($400 something). now at 142k, it's so quite with zero vibration that sometimes you just wonder at the traffic light " did I turn off the engine ". that was before. after 120k, I don't go to Acura dealer anymore.
not all 01 TLs are equal.
(the front engine mount had only 3 bolts to the frame; the side moount had only 2 bolts to the frame. so both had been removed once before; and it was not done by Acura dealer for sure).
my own 01 TL had side and front engine mount replaced by Acura dealer at 80k ($400 something). now at 142k, it's so quite with zero vibration that sometimes you just wonder at the traffic light " did I turn off the engine ". that was before. after 120k, I don't go to Acura dealer anymore.
not all 01 TLs are equal.
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