Help!
#1
Help!
Need help identifying an annoying ticking/clicking noise that seems to come from my front part of the car. im almost certain its from the wheels. i have 15mm spacers installed up front. The ticking is consistent while i drive, and gets faster as i speed up, slows down as i do, and gets louder as i turn. cv axle shafts and boots looks good, and my steering wheel is really shaky now. i have installed ingalls control arms all around. I tightened my lugs today. Any ideas? what bushings or bearing have to be replaced in our cars? and can i buy locally or i have to buy online? brands? help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advanced!!!!
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Xxb005txx (06-14-2015)
#4
for the moog bushings, there are stabilizer bar bushings, sway bar frame bushing, front sway bar bushings and lower control arm bushings. I should get them all? and as for the lower control arm bushings, that is separate from my ingall control arm right? as in there is an upper and lower and i only have my uppers new
#5
Moderator
Man if you have the moneyzzzz? might as well get them all and have yourself a regained ride comfort. And yes no need for the Upper A-ARM since that is new...
#6
perfect. alright, so far in my shopping cart i have the lower control arm bushing (how many of those will i need?) stabilizer bar bushing for the rear, and the sway bar frame bushing. the last two have different part numbers, both still MOOG. Im buying from ebay, all come in kits or couples so i guess i just buy them as is? wanna make sure i take care of any and all potential creaks, squeaks, clicks and ticks and thumps before i see myself eating shit due to poor maintenance.
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#8
Moderator
The steering link bushing isn't replaceable by itself only, You have to buy the entire Links which are called "TIE RODs" Ill make you a quick list, All these parts will be MOOG:
Outer Link Driver: MOES3490
Outer Link Pass: MOES3491
Inner Link (Driver/Pass): MOEV415
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Driver: MOK90436
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Pass: MOK9761
Completer Lower A-ARM Driver: MORK620045 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Complete Lower A-ARM Pass: MORK620044 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Sway Bar Link Driver: MOK90341
Sway Bar Link Pass: MOK90340
Sway Bar Bushings: MOK90563
Radius Rod Bushing: MOK9733
That's all I can think off.. I pulled those numbers from the parts Boxes I have in my Garage and some out of the Internetz.
Outer Link Driver: MOES3490
Outer Link Pass: MOES3491
Inner Link (Driver/Pass): MOEV415
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Driver: MOK90436
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Pass: MOK9761
Completer Lower A-ARM Driver: MORK620045 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Complete Lower A-ARM Pass: MORK620044 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Sway Bar Link Driver: MOK90341
Sway Bar Link Pass: MOK90340
Sway Bar Bushings: MOK90563
Radius Rod Bushing: MOK9733
That's all I can think off.. I pulled those numbers from the parts Boxes I have in my Garage and some out of the Internetz.
Last edited by Skirmich; 06-14-2015 at 10:15 PM.
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Xxb005txx (06-14-2015)
#10
The steering link bushing isn't replaceable by itself only, You have to buy the entire Links which are called "TIE RODs" Ill make you a quick list, All these parts will be MOOG:
Outer Link Driver: MOES3490
Outer Link Pass: MOES3491
Inner Link (Driver/Pass): MOEV415
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Driver: MOK90436
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Pass: MOK9761
Completer Lower A-ARM Driver: MORK620045 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Complete Lower A-ARM Pass: MORK620044 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Sway Bar Link Driver: MOK90341
Sway Bar Link Pass: MOK90340
Sway Bar Bushings: MOK90563
Radius Rod Bushing: MOK9733
That's all I can think off.. I pulled those numbers from the parts Boxes I have in my Garage and some out of the Internetz.
Outer Link Driver: MOES3490
Outer Link Pass: MOES3491
Inner Link (Driver/Pass): MOEV415
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Driver: MOK90436
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Pass: MOK9761
Completer Lower A-ARM Driver: MORK620045 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Complete Lower A-ARM Pass: MORK620044 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Sway Bar Link Driver: MOK90341
Sway Bar Link Pass: MOK90340
Sway Bar Bushings: MOK90563
Radius Rod Bushing: MOK9733
That's all I can think off.. I pulled those numbers from the parts Boxes I have in my Garage and some out of the Internetz.
#11
Moderator
The Complete Lower A-ARM is optional.. You "COULD" change it if money isn't an issue but I haven't seen a bad lower A-ARM To be honest. For the Lower A-ARM to go bad it would need to be driven with blown shocks for thousands of miles.
None of them need or require a special tool except perhaps the Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing.
For the MOEV415 you have to buy 2.. They fit both sides.
None of them need or require a special tool except perhaps the Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing.
For the MOEV415 you have to buy 2.. They fit both sides.
#12
The Complete Lower A-ARM is optional.. You "COULD" change it if money isn't an issue but I haven't seen a bad lower A-ARM To be honest. For the Lower A-ARM to go bad it would need to be driven with blown shocks for thousands of miles.
None of them need or require a special tool except perhaps the Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing.
For the MOEV415 you have to buy 2.. They fit both sides.
None of them need or require a special tool except perhaps the Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing.
For the MOEV415 you have to buy 2.. They fit both sides.
#13
Moderator
Well yes but remember for those bushings to go wrong you must had driven with blown shocks... They simply don't fail if you change your shocks. And that's pretty cheap considering is a lot of stuff.
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Xxb005txx (06-15-2015)
#14
I believe you can remove the ball joints with a ball hammer but I've only seen it done that way when they are being replaced because they're bad, the hit probably damages the spindle.
You need a press to put them back in.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
You need a press to put them back in.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
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Xxb005txx (06-15-2015)
#15
I'd do two things before I replaced all the front end stuff. First, run it without the spacers. Second, have a professional do a thorough inspection of the front and rear suspension. I suspect your clicking noise will go away when the spacers go away. Then you can replace any steering and and suspension pieces you might need.
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Xxb005txx (06-15-2015)
#18
I'd do two things before I replaced all the front end stuff. First, run it without the spacers. Second, have a professional do a thorough inspection of the front and rear suspension. I suspect your clicking noise will go away when the spacers go away. Then you can replace any steering and and suspension pieces you might need.
#19
Moderator
I think you just answered yourself
If you knew the OEM Suspension was bad then you should had replaced those items long ago before putting more stress with the lowering.
#21
Moderator
If you really want to know which parts are worn out you need to get your whole suspension check´d.. Otherwise you could be replacing stuff that is in good working condition. There are easy parts to replace too! Myself replaced the whole steering linkages, Radius Rod bushings, Sway Links and Sway Bushings, Top A-ARM... With no special tools at all.
#22
If you really want to know which parts are worn out you need to get your whole suspension check´d.. Otherwise you could be replacing stuff that is in good working condition. There are easy parts to replace too! Myself replaced the whole steering linkages, Radius Rod bushings, Sway Links and Sway Bushings, Top A-ARM... With no special tools at all.