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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 08:20 PM
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Gabriel Alejandro Iser
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Unhappy Help!

Need help identifying an annoying ticking/clicking noise that seems to come from my front part of the car. im almost certain its from the wheels. i have 15mm spacers installed up front. The ticking is consistent while i drive, and gets faster as i speed up, slows down as i do, and gets louder as i turn. cv axle shafts and boots looks good, and my steering wheel is really shaky now. i have installed ingalls control arms all around. I tightened my lugs today. Any ideas? what bushings or bearing have to be replaced in our cars? and can i buy locally or i have to buy online? brands? help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advanced!!!!
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 08:45 PM
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Main Wheel Bearings = USE TIMKEN or NATIONAL
Bushings = MOOG


If your wheel is shaky check: Steering Link Bushings.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 09:11 PM
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Gabriel Alejandro Iser
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finally!!!!! thank you! i might as well replace them all since my car has 183k miles on it. know if any local places like napa sell em or has to be ordered online?
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Main Wheel Bearings = USE TIMKEN or NATIONAL
Bushings = MOOG


If your wheel is shaky check: Steering Link Bushings.
for the moog bushings, there are stabilizer bar bushings, sway bar frame bushing, front sway bar bushings and lower control arm bushings. I should get them all? and as for the lower control arm bushings, that is separate from my ingall control arm right? as in there is an upper and lower and i only have my uppers new
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 09:31 PM
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Man if you have the moneyzzzz? might as well get them all and have yourself a regained ride comfort. And yes no need for the Upper A-ARM since that is new...
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Man if you have the moneyzzzz? might as well get them all and have yourself a regained ride comfort. And yes no need for the Upper A-ARM since that is new...
perfect. alright, so far in my shopping cart i have the lower control arm bushing (how many of those will i need?) stabilizer bar bushing for the rear, and the sway bar frame bushing. the last two have different part numbers, both still MOOG. Im buying from ebay, all come in kits or couples so i guess i just buy them as is? wanna make sure i take care of any and all potential creaks, squeaks, clicks and ticks and thumps before i see myself eating shit due to poor maintenance.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Main Wheel Bearings = USE TIMKEN or NATIONAL
Bushings = MOOG


If your wheel is shaky check: Steering Link Bushings.
as for steering link bushings, do they go by another name? i cant seem to find them on ebay, they show me sway bar links, rack and pinions, and lower control arms
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 10:12 PM
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The steering link bushing isn't replaceable by itself only, You have to buy the entire Links which are called "TIE RODs" Ill make you a quick list, All these parts will be MOOG:


Outer Link Driver: MOES3490
Outer Link Pass: MOES3491
Inner Link (Driver/Pass): MOEV415
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Driver: MOK90436
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Pass: MOK9761
Completer Lower A-ARM Driver: MORK620045 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Complete Lower A-ARM Pass: MORK620044 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Sway Bar Link Driver: MOK90341
Sway Bar Link Pass: MOK90340
Sway Bar Bushings: MOK90563
Radius Rod Bushing: MOK9733

That's all I can think off.. I pulled those numbers from the parts Boxes I have in my Garage and some out of the Internetz.

Last edited by Skirmich; Jun 14, 2015 at 10:15 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 10:37 PM
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shit, thats a lot more bushings than i thought. how much am i looking at spending here? and all those bushings have to be done with a special tool or pressed?
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
The steering link bushing isn't replaceable by itself only, You have to buy the entire Links which are called "TIE RODs" Ill make you a quick list, All these parts will be MOOG:


Outer Link Driver: MOES3490
Outer Link Pass: MOES3491
Inner Link (Driver/Pass): MOEV415
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Driver: MOK90436
Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing Pass: MOK9761
Completer Lower A-ARM Driver: MORK620045 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Complete Lower A-ARM Pass: MORK620044 (Includes Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing)
Sway Bar Link Driver: MOK90341
Sway Bar Link Pass: MOK90340
Sway Bar Bushings: MOK90563
Radius Rod Bushing: MOK9733

That's all I can think off.. I pulled those numbers from the parts Boxes I have in my Garage and some out of the Internetz.
for the MOEV415, does it come already for both sides? or id have to order 2? buying from ebay
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 10:59 PM
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The Complete Lower A-ARM is optional.. You "COULD" change it if money isn't an issue but I haven't seen a bad lower A-ARM To be honest. For the Lower A-ARM to go bad it would need to be driven with blown shocks for thousands of miles.

None of them need or require a special tool except perhaps the Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing.


For the MOEV415 you have to buy 2.. They fit both sides.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
The Complete Lower A-ARM is optional.. You "COULD" change it if money isn't an issue but I haven't seen a bad lower A-ARM To be honest. For the Lower A-ARM to go bad it would need to be driven with blown shocks for thousands of miles.

None of them need or require a special tool except perhaps the Lower A-ARM Strut Bushing.


For the MOEV415 you have to buy 2.. They fit both sides.
so i would need that ball joint separator thing? is there a diy for these? i feel as if though id have a hard time identifying these things under the car. and alright that makes sense, ive arranged my shopping cart so that ik what i need then. looking at $207.48
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 03:41 AM
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Well yes but remember for those bushings to go wrong you must had driven with blown shocks... They simply don't fail if you change your shocks. And that's pretty cheap considering is a lot of stuff.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 10:19 AM
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I believe you can remove the ball joints with a ball hammer but I've only seen it done that way when they are being replaced because they're bad, the hit probably damages the spindle.

You need a press to put them back in.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 11:13 AM
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I'd do two things before I replaced all the front end stuff. First, run it without the spacers. Second, have a professional do a thorough inspection of the front and rear suspension. I suspect your clicking noise will go away when the spacers go away. Then you can replace any steering and and suspension pieces you might need.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Well yes but remember for those bushings to go wrong you must had driven with blown shocks... They simply don't fail if you change your shocks. And that's pretty cheap considering is a lot of stuff.
so then you suggest i shouldnt replace all that stuff just yet? when i installed my coilovers i was told my oem suspension was in bad shape.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Chojun
I believe you can remove the ball joints with a ball hammer but I've only seen it done that way when they are being replaced because they're bad, the hit probably damages the spindle.

You need a press to put them back in.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
ill keep that in mind if i do end up having to replace all those parts.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TLer trash
I'd do two things before I replaced all the front end stuff. First, run it without the spacers. Second, have a professional do a thorough inspection of the front and rear suspension. I suspect your clicking noise will go away when the spacers go away. Then you can replace any steering and and suspension pieces you might need.
if that clicking is originated from my 15mm front spacers, what do you guys believe could be the cause? my hub studs are too long and need to be shaved down? The aluminum ticks and crackles do to high temperatures? will i be able to make that noise go away without having to take off my spacers permanently?
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Xxb005txx
so then you suggest i shouldnt replace all that stuff just yet? when i installed my coilovers i was told my oem suspension was in bad shape.



I think you just answered yourself
If you knew the OEM Suspension was bad then you should had replaced those items long ago before putting more stress with the lowering.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
I think you just answered yourself
If you knew the OEM Suspension was bad then you should had replaced those items long ago before putting more stress with the lowering.
balls :/ i mean, the shop would tell me anything in terms to get money out of me. but they did say it was bad. so then im due to replace all those items u listed for me or am i looking at a specific one(s) first? #noobproblems
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 03:39 PM
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If you really want to know which parts are worn out you need to get your whole suspension check´d.. Otherwise you could be replacing stuff that is in good working condition. There are easy parts to replace too! Myself replaced the whole steering linkages, Radius Rod bushings, Sway Links and Sway Bushings, Top A-ARM... With no special tools at all.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
If you really want to know which parts are worn out you need to get your whole suspension check´d.. Otherwise you could be replacing stuff that is in good working condition. There are easy parts to replace too! Myself replaced the whole steering linkages, Radius Rod bushings, Sway Links and Sway Bushings, Top A-ARM... With no special tools at all.
hmm. ill be going to the shop that does work on my car for a free check up into that noise since they were last tinkering with my suspension when they installed my camber and did a full body alignment. and when u refer to suspension u mean my coilovers too? i hope these guys will not do a shitty check and actually find what needs to be fixed so i can get on that asap.
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