Headlight flicker
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
Headlight flicker
My driver-side headlight is starting to flicker. I will sometimes just be driving (daytime) and I will notice in the bumper of someone's car that my headlight is completely out. When I turn them back on it will flicker before coming on. It seems to be pretty inconsistent, but I think it is probably just a new bulb that I need.
They are not original bulbs. I ordered them from HIDextra.com
Here is a video showing what happens with the flicker.
What do you think? New bulb?
They are not original bulbs. I ordered them from HIDextra.com
Here is a video showing what happens with the flicker.
What do you think? New bulb?
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
This issue is coming back with new bulbs.
I checked to make sure they are plugged in all the way.
They flicker when i turn the wheel to the right and take a turn. I have no idea how that should have any impact on my headlights, but it for sure happens when i take right turns only.
I checked to make sure they are plugged in all the way.
They flicker when i turn the wheel to the right and take a turn. I have no idea how that should have any impact on my headlights, but it for sure happens when i take right turns only.
did you replace the hid ballast and ignitor, or just the bulbs?
our systems are old and water failure prone
its too easy to get hidextras kit with new ballast and bulbs for 59$!
and solve the problem www.hidextra.com
my 01 had flick to turn back on, one go off in turns or bumps- opposite side not work etc
until I spent the 60 bucks and replaced decade old parts with some modern technology
no more probs with any of that!
our systems are old and water failure prone
its too easy to get hidextras kit with new ballast and bulbs for 59$!
and solve the problem www.hidextra.com
my 01 had flick to turn back on, one go off in turns or bumps- opposite side not work etc
until I spent the 60 bucks and replaced decade old parts with some modern technology
no more probs with any of that!
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
did you replace the hid ballast and ignitor, or just the bulbs?
our systems are old and water failure prone
its too easy to get hidextras kit with new ballast and bulbs for 59$!
and solve the problem www.hidextra.com
my 01 had flick to turn back on, one go off in turns or bumps- opposite side not work etc
until I spent the 60 bucks and replaced decade old parts with some modern technology
no more probs with any of that!
our systems are old and water failure prone
its too easy to get hidextras kit with new ballast and bulbs for 59$!
and solve the problem www.hidextra.com
my 01 had flick to turn back on, one go off in turns or bumps- opposite side not work etc
until I spent the 60 bucks and replaced decade old parts with some modern technology
no more probs with any of that!
Having the same problem. Jus checked my ballast and igniter for any water damage but it's all clean. Everytime I hit a small bump or turning, one head light will go out. Alternates too which is weird...
I have done many aftermarket HID kits. I am pretty sure its your ballast. They only have so much life in them, and like other high voltage devices, are prone to failure. I don't advocate any aftermarket kits in particular, but VVME and other online companies have complete kits starting around $40 and up. Its a small price to pay for piece of mind. Your first headlight ticket will cost you more than a compete aftermarket kit will. If you have never done anything like installing an aftermarket HID kit, either ask a friend, checkout the forum, and YouTube has MANY tutorials, some even car specific.
I have done many aftermarket HID kits. I am pretty sure its your ballast. They only have so much life in them, and like other high voltage devices, are prone to failure. I don't advocate any aftermarket kits in particular, but VVME and other online companies have complete kits starting around $40 and up. Its a small price to pay for piece of mind. Your first headlight ticket will cost you more than a compete aftermarket kit will. If you have never done anything like installing an aftermarket HID kit, either ask a friend, checkout the forum, and YouTube has MANY tutorials, some even car specific.
once you get pink at startup, flicker, alternating goes off or other light weirdness its time to admit that 13 years was a long life for the technology made by the lowest bidder of the time
I like hidextras setup, they always have a coupon code, and excellent customer service
I like hidextras setup, they always have a coupon code, and excellent customer service
Yeah, back in the day......Acura's HID lighting feature was a pioneer within the car industry.
The OEM set-up held up relatively well through the years. If swapping in a good bulb doesn't work, then it's more cost effective to simply replace the old stuff as 01tl4tl suggested. With over 10 years exposure to the road conditions and elements, their biggest problem was corrosion due to moisture. So, it may be wise to update and be worry free down the road.
The OEM set-up held up relatively well through the years. If swapping in a good bulb doesn't work, then it's more cost effective to simply replace the old stuff as 01tl4tl suggested. With over 10 years exposure to the road conditions and elements, their biggest problem was corrosion due to moisture. So, it may be wise to update and be worry free down the road.
I'm planning to dive into this project tomorrow - Replacing 2001 TL HID ballasts with HIDExtra kit. The only sticky I could find says the bumper and headlight assembly have to be removed. Is this true even if I mount the ballast on the rail?
Diver its best to remove to bumper cover and few bolts holding housing on
get rid of all the old parts there- dead weight,,and I mean weight!
it takes a little thinking to slip new wires into housing
the bracket will mount to frame rail or some mount new ballast in old location, some even leave old one and bolt new ballast to it!
not all of us have a racer mentality~
some gorilla glue or a basic screw will hold the bracket, ballast clips to it- about the size of a deck of cards
Do NOT fill the moisture drain hole with silicone- heat heat hot hot is whats happening with hid inside the housing!!
get rid of all the old parts there- dead weight,,and I mean weight!
it takes a little thinking to slip new wires into housing
the bracket will mount to frame rail or some mount new ballast in old location, some even leave old one and bolt new ballast to it!
not all of us have a racer mentality~
some gorilla glue or a basic screw will hold the bracket, ballast clips to it- about the size of a deck of cards
Do NOT fill the moisture drain hole with silicone- heat heat hot hot is whats happening with hid inside the housing!!
I suggest get matching connector to ones on new ballast- 2 bucks at parts store 14/16 is the size
Diver
getting the back cover off the housings to reach the bulbs is half the battle
remove housing and its right there!
Note Torx #20 Security tip needed for screws on back cover, you can dremel that into a flatblade easy!
pay attention to the retainer arm to bulb operation, and which way the external rod on bulb faces = down
Diver
getting the back cover off the housings to reach the bulbs is half the battle
remove housing and its right there!
Note Torx #20 Security tip needed for screws on back cover, you can dremel that into a flatblade easy!
pay attention to the retainer arm to bulb operation, and which way the external rod on bulb faces = down
The plastic bumper cover is off and I'm deciding where to place the ballast. It looks like the rail is going to be the winning location, forward of the windshield washer reservoir on the passenger side, and whatever the large black box is on the driver side. I was going to butt splice the power wires to the ballast, but I think I'll take your advice and get the right size female connectors instead.
I ordered an adapter I saw mentioned in one of these threads thinking I wouldn't have to splice wires, but it won't plug in to the gray square connector, the ebay connector is different than what's on my 2001 TL, so the project where this adapter was mentioned must have been for a different generation TL.
I'll make sure the rod on the lamp is oriented below the lamp. Thanks.
I bought a set of security torx, so that screw wasn't a problem. Thanks for the tip.
I need to buy some replacement plastic rivets, I damaged 3 of them when removing.
I'll finish this tomorrow when I have a clear head.
I ordered an adapter I saw mentioned in one of these threads thinking I wouldn't have to splice wires, but it won't plug in to the gray square connector, the ebay connector is different than what's on my 2001 TL, so the project where this adapter was mentioned must have been for a different generation TL.
I'll make sure the rod on the lamp is oriented below the lamp. Thanks.
I bought a set of security torx, so that screw wasn't a problem. Thanks for the tip.
I need to buy some replacement plastic rivets, I damaged 3 of them when removing.
I'll finish this tomorrow when I have a clear head.
only 3? a handful of the plastic rivets/clips is the average
make sure to use heat-shrink wrap over the connectors, or electrical tape over connectors even if the plastic covered waterproof ones- in case you get crazy with the pressure washer one day- its all safe
make sure to use heat-shrink wrap over the connectors, or electrical tape over connectors even if the plastic covered waterproof ones- in case you get crazy with the pressure washer one day- its all safe
the silver `arm` locks the bulb in place, make sure bulb is in locator tabs.
arm opens with a down and out push with screwdriver type tool
note for all- HID bulbs are very sensitive to oils from your fingers
Wear latex/rubber gloves, if you do touch bulb use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to wipe entire surface clean
arm opens with a down and out push with screwdriver type tool
note for all- HID bulbs are very sensitive to oils from your fingers
Wear latex/rubber gloves, if you do touch bulb use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to wipe entire surface clean
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Jun 29, 2014 at 10:23 AM.
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
wow gen3 has the problem too?
ours starts with the electronics being mounted directly below the drip hole/heat escape for housing- whose weak seal to leans allows moisture in after only 10 years!!
and onto/into the ballast- which usually takes the igniter with it
that's why modern parts in a matched parts kit are the way to go
ours starts with the electronics being mounted directly below the drip hole/heat escape for housing- whose weak seal to leans allows moisture in after only 10 years!!
and onto/into the ballast- which usually takes the igniter with it
that's why modern parts in a matched parts kit are the way to go
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
I'm getting ready to purchase the replacement third party ballasts.
I've worked with HIDextra.com in the past, any reason to buy somewhere else?
Also...Can I just purchase (2) single ballasts like this?
Or should I buy the entire kit with capacitor, relay harness, etc.?
I've worked with HIDextra.com in the past, any reason to buy somewhere else?
Also...Can I just purchase (2) single ballasts like this?
Or should I buy the entire kit with capacitor, relay harness, etc.?
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
http://www.hidextra.com/hidextra-35w...bs-2-ballasts/
I know you mentioned splicing. Is there any DIY post I can follow on here? Any parts list for anything else I need to buy before starting this project? screws, clips, connectors, electrical tape, etc.
order the kit you found, with 35 watt bulbs and ballast there is no need for a new relay system
I suggest 5000k bulbs to best see road with
there is a coupon code online or on their site or just call and mention acurazine- they will hook you up
buy small pack 14/16 guage female waterproof connector and small pack of shrink wrap.
some gorilla glue or a few screws mount the ballast bracket to frame rail
I suggest 5000k bulbs to best see road with
there is a coupon code online or on their site or just call and mention acurazine- they will hook you up
buy small pack 14/16 guage female waterproof connector and small pack of shrink wrap.
some gorilla glue or a few screws mount the ballast bracket to frame rail
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
So should I leave the old ballast mounted to the headlight? Why would I not install the new ballast there? Where is the frame rail? Underneath the headlight housing?
Sorry...I just like being prepared before I put my car in a condition where I can't run to the store and pick something up mid-project.
you will cut a connector off and install a new connector on each of 2 wires- per headlight
the ballast comes with the male connector already installed on wire
(unless they changed since mine)
you can wait to get the part- go to autozone type store and show them the new ballast- say "I need a mate to these wire connectors!" 2 dollars should get you a small box, ask for package of shrink wrap of the correct size
remove the stock ballast- its dead weight, there are creative ways to mount new ballast- smaller than a deck of cards, to old location or move it away to the frame rails- those long metal things supporting the car~
there are a couple diys on here. not all made it to the `official list` so look in general and problem threads for install help
getting the pins holding the under-car plastic panels on is the hard part- oh yeah you will be needing a few of those pins, Stop by the dealer and tell them what you are doing, they know which ones are the pita, expect to break 3~
the ballast comes with the male connector already installed on wire
(unless they changed since mine)
you can wait to get the part- go to autozone type store and show them the new ballast- say "I need a mate to these wire connectors!" 2 dollars should get you a small box, ask for package of shrink wrap of the correct size
remove the stock ballast- its dead weight, there are creative ways to mount new ballast- smaller than a deck of cards, to old location or move it away to the frame rails- those long metal things supporting the car~
there are a couple diys on here. not all made it to the `official list` so look in general and problem threads for install help
getting the pins holding the under-car plastic panels on is the hard part- oh yeah you will be needing a few of those pins, Stop by the dealer and tell them what you are doing, they know which ones are the pita, expect to break 3~
a search online for waterproof 14/16 (wire gauge/size) female connectors should yield pics of connector with rubber/plastic shroud around it so when the male is inserted- the whole thing is covered- but should be extra waterproofed with shrink wrap, considering its location
watch a few vids on the project- its much easier than it seems in print
watch a few vids on the project- its much easier than it seems in print
Thread Starter
Need an OEM lip kit on my
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,499
Likes: 7
From: Orlando,FL
This was all sorted out with new bulbs and ballasts. Everything was working great. I just came back from 3 months of not being home and now I notice that the passenger headlight sometimes does not come on. I have to turn off and turn on the headlights 2-3 times before it "re-ignites" the bulb. Once it comes on it will warm up and stay on. The flicker issue has been resolved.
Do you think this new issue is the bulb or something else?
Do you think this new issue is the bulb or something else?
sounds like ballast, call hidextra and ask for their opinion
If not still in the 12 month warranty they will hook you up with just the part you need for very cheap
occasionally mechanical things fail or a connection corrodes etc, this is life whether you spent 60 bucks or1200
NOTE hidextra usually does a december special- in past years it was 50% off!
If not still in the 12 month warranty they will hook you up with just the part you need for very cheap
occasionally mechanical things fail or a connection corrodes etc, this is life whether you spent 60 bucks or1200
NOTE hidextra usually does a december special- in past years it was 50% off!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







