With the recent cold front we've experienced here in the exciting state of Minnesota, it has become necessary to turn the heat on. I am not certain what the problem is, when I turn the temp control all the way to the hottest and all I got was the air from outside. It was just last week that the heat was still working properly and nothing has been done to the car ever since besides getting some new tires put on. The air condition is working fine with no noises or leakage that I know of. Does anyone have an idea of what might have gone wrong?

I was planning to bring the car to the dealership since I have extended warranty. However, after speaking to the service manager, the warranty might not cover for the cost of repair for the heating system. It would cost me 110 dollars just to run a diagnostic test. My friend suggested that it might have something to do with the thermostat, would I be able to tell if the thermostat needs to be replaced?

 

If your temp gauge reads about half scale, and gets there fairly quickly, your thermostat is probably ok. Also, check your coolant level in the radiator as well as the overflow tank. Take the radiator cap off when the engine has cooled off to avoid being scalded.

 

if you look under the passenger side dash, on the left of the glove box. there is a black box with a green plug. this is a blend door motor. they go bad all the time. to check, put the ac off and blower on high. put temp at 60 deg. then watch the motor as you raise the temp it should move. if it doesn't then there's your problem. also in the engine bay on the fire wall, check the heater valve and make sure it moves. it's just above the rear mount. there will be a cable that runs in to the fire wall.

 

I also ran in to this problem, but it started working a day or 2 later.... and never had a problem since then...

 

I tried the method for checking the door blend motor. When I increased the temp, the air movement changed if that's what you meant. But my engine didn't act all that different other than a drop in blower's strength. I couldn't figure out which one is the heater valve since it's night and my stupid flashlight was dying. I tried looking at my coolant level, but I couldn't see a thing, will try again in the morning. I also opened the radiator cap and got coolant bursting out of it.

It's been going on for a week now, I don't think it's going to go away. I probably will bring her to my buddy's father's shop to see what's his opinion it before I pursue any further with the warranty company......

 

I didn't want to accept defeat so I gathered my tools: sweater, flashlight and my ultra bright led keychain and headed out to the driveway. At first I couldn't make out which one is the heater valve, but after a minute or two of poking at every thing by the firewall I finally found that little valve.

After I wiggled it couple times, I started my car and waited for it to warm up a bit. Then turned the heat on, and warm air starting blowing. Awesome! Then I went back to the hood to spray some WD 40 around the area of the heating valve since the car was too fat to fit under the strut bar. Thank you, 240 acura tech for the tip, I'd have end up taking it to the stealership and get ripped off. Awesome people on this site!

 

Hey. New to the forum. A Bud recommended that I start here, and of course, someone else had the same problem I am having right now. Thanks for the initial start everyone. I was having a little trouble locating the heater valve. Any landmarks to look for? Pardon my automobile ignorance, but the only cable I saw ran from the firewall to the engire.

Thanks.

 

perfect! that's what it was. easy to find. look for green plug. a little WD40 later and a helping hand got the motor working again!


Now, how do I fix position change from defog to floor etc???

 

Hey I'm having this same problem. Heat blows out of the passenger vents and cold blows out of the driver vents.

To access the cable, do you have to remove the glove box or open the glove box?