Hard Start Issues
Hard Start Issues
I have a '99 Acura TL with approx 114K miles. On occasion the car will shut down after I start it. Usually the shut down is preceded by a shuddering of the engine. I can get the car going if I step on the gas immediately after turning the ignition, but the engine will still sporadically shudder for 10 - 15 seconds. I had the EGR valve replaced a month ago as the mechanic I went to told me that was what was causing the issue.
The last scan I pulled from provided the following:
Mil Off
Monitors
0 Inc
8 Ready
Misfire
Fuel
Comp
Catalyst
Evap
02 Snsr
02 Htr
EGR
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the help.
The last scan I pulled from provided the following:
Mil Off
Monitors
0 Inc
8 Ready
Misfire
Fuel
Comp
Catalyst
Evap
02 Snsr
02 Htr
EGR
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the help.
if you have the actual codes that will help us
BUT
Im going with: your guy didnt know of the egr passage and port clogging problem we have
99s are the worst about it !!!! even had a recall to install a smooth bore in the port to cylinder,,didnt solve prob but,, looks nice
remove intake manifold and use solvent tank, or carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger to poke the whole length of the thing clean thru the manifold
a new egr valve wont help when the place it allows flow to--is clogged!
BUT
Im going with: your guy didnt know of the egr passage and port clogging problem we have
99s are the worst about it !!!! even had a recall to install a smooth bore in the port to cylinder,,didnt solve prob but,, looks nice
remove intake manifold and use solvent tank, or carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger to poke the whole length of the thing clean thru the manifold
a new egr valve wont help when the place it allows flow to--is clogged!
if you have the actual codes that will help us
BUT
Im going with: your guy didnt know of the egr passage and port clogging problem we have
99s are the worst about it !!!! even had a recall to install a smooth bore in the port to cylinder,,didnt solve prob but,, looks nice
remove intake manifold and use solvent tank, or carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger to poke the whole length of the thing clean thru the manifold
a new egr valve wont help when the place it allows flow to--is clogged!
BUT
Im going with: your guy didnt know of the egr passage and port clogging problem we have
99s are the worst about it !!!! even had a recall to install a smooth bore in the port to cylinder,,didnt solve prob but,, looks nice
remove intake manifold and use solvent tank, or carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger to poke the whole length of the thing clean thru the manifold
a new egr valve wont help when the place it allows flow to--is clogged!
Forgive me, I am a novice, but does anyone out there have step by step directions/pictures showing how to remove intake manifold and clean out the manifold.
Also, from research I've read that it could be a bad fuel injector, causing the engine to run lean and receive too much air and not enough fuel.
the 105 as done by many places does not include the spark plugs and valve adjustment.
if they did- the egr passage and port(s) would get cleaned then--the manifold comes off to access the valve covers
ck a spark plug, make sure correct ngk
see our diy master list, 3rd item down the main list as you entered gen2
here is the specific one
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-thermoblok-spacers-install-egr-cleaning-615644/
ignore that part about changing studs--you are not installing the manifold spacer kit
if they did- the egr passage and port(s) would get cleaned then--the manifold comes off to access the valve covers
ck a spark plug, make sure correct ngk
see our diy master list, 3rd item down the main list as you entered gen2
here is the specific one
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-thermoblok-spacers-install-egr-cleaning-615644/
ignore that part about changing studs--you are not installing the manifold spacer kit
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Kappiah did you end up finding out the issue? My fiances 99 TL has been doing the same thing for months.
Today we went to start it up and it is just making a rapid clicking noise rather than starting. headlights, instrument lights, and cabin lights all appear fine but fade once we attempt to start vehicle.
Today we went to start it up and it is just making a rapid clicking noise rather than starting. headlights, instrument lights, and cabin lights all appear fine but fade once we attempt to start vehicle.
Kappiah did you end up finding out the issue? My fiances 99 TL has been doing the same thing for months.
Today we went to start it up and it is just making a rapid clicking noise rather than starting. headlights, instrument lights, and cabin lights all appear fine but fade once we attempt to start vehicle.
Today we went to start it up and it is just making a rapid clicking noise rather than starting. headlights, instrument lights, and cabin lights all appear fine but fade once we attempt to start vehicle.
did they run a cleaner thru the fuel line,
or actually removed the intake manifold to clean egr ports and passage,,thats not something a shop normally does on the FI service
for others wanting fuel injection service- 2 cans of seafoam for ~20 bucks will do the job better
clicking noise at start attempt- ck battery and all ground wires condition
or actually removed the intake manifold to clean egr ports and passage,,thats not something a shop normally does on the FI service
for others wanting fuel injection service- 2 cans of seafoam for ~20 bucks will do the job better
clicking noise at start attempt- ck battery and all ground wires condition
did they run a cleaner thru the fuel line,
or actually removed the intake manifold to clean egr ports and passage,,thats not something a shop normally does on the FI service
for others wanting fuel injection service- 2 cans of seafoam for ~20 bucks will do the job better
clicking noise at start attempt- ck battery and all ground wires condition
or actually removed the intake manifold to clean egr ports and passage,,thats not something a shop normally does on the FI service
for others wanting fuel injection service- 2 cans of seafoam for ~20 bucks will do the job better
clicking noise at start attempt- ck battery and all ground wires condition
looks like they just ran a cleaner through the fuel line. exact description is: 3-part fuel injection cleaner; dissolves throttle body deposits. clean fuel induction system. removes deposits on intake valves and cleans clogged fuel injectors.
I just had the spark plugs replaced as well.
Still getting the following when i use my pocket scanner
0 Codes
Mil Off
Monitors
0 Inc
8 Ready
Misfire
Fuel
Comp
Catalyst
Evap
02 Snsr
02 Htr
EGR
No other codes show up.
exactly what spark plugs were installed? it makes all the differance!!
a basic cheapie oil change shop wont have used the correct NGK, at 8 dollars EACH!
the ignition switch,,you called acura and found it was replaced once under recall?
buy one `ign. switch-back section` (not the key part just the electrical section)
at any parts store
see diy for easy install
the `recall replaced` one fails too,,then someone buys another oe model and it fails
Others go aftermarket and fix the prob
a basic cheapie oil change shop wont have used the correct NGK, at 8 dollars EACH!
the ignition switch,,you called acura and found it was replaced once under recall?
buy one `ign. switch-back section` (not the key part just the electrical section)
at any parts store
see diy for easy install
the `recall replaced` one fails too,,then someone buys another oe model and it fails
Others go aftermarket and fix the prob
try wiggling the key with engine running,,can you get it to shut off and come back on just by that?
do you have several keys or other weight on the keyring??,,causing lateral loading inside the key housing
its possible to take the switch out and seperate its halves--if black and dirty try cleaning or replace
do you have several keys or other weight on the keyring??,,causing lateral loading inside the key housing
its possible to take the switch out and seperate its halves--if black and dirty try cleaning or replace
i think i have finally found the issue. the symptoms that my car was experiencing were pretty similar to when you have a bad idle air control valve as described by the article - especially the issue with weather variations. I took it to a mom and pop mech who stated that my idle air control valve was bad. I just ordered the part so I'll have him install it once it gets here or I might just go ahead and try to see if i can do it myself.
any thoughts on either the idle air control valve malfunctioning or the installation.
http://www.ehow.com/list_7219549_sig...rol-valve.html
any thoughts on either the idle air control valve malfunctioning or the installation.
http://www.ehow.com/list_7219549_sig...rol-valve.html
my did the same thing, it would have a hard time starting after sitting for 15-20 mins in the sun with normal engine temp. what i changed was all 6 coils with plugs, cleaned out EGR ports/passages/valve it runs a little better now, but still has the problem. what i usually do is, before i leave the car. i would turn the key to "on" and let the fuel pump, pump first and turn key off (that way it would have fuel already standing by when i come bacK) and then when i do get back to the car i would do the same thing (put the key to "on" for the fuel pump to pump the fuel, then start the car) it usually takes longer to start than any other normal car but sh*t, it starts up everytime lol. also was told that, the Fuel Preasure regulator can be the problem as it dont have enough preasure when hot weather or driving.
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