pad abutment clips, often known as the slider clips- they hold the pad tight at the tab ends of the pad, they are the metal piece that slips/clips to caliper bracket then you slip the pads in- they have that spring tension you have to push the pad down and in to get it to go in and lock in place. Shiny gold when clean on the TL, need to be cleaned and lubed where the tabs on the pad tabs slide on it, thats where all the motion happens every time you push the brakes, they get moved in ~1mm to contact rotor and then clamping force of caliper applies brake pad pressure to rotor
Release the brakes and without pressure holding them on- they return out 1mm at rest position, Were you to take up the mm with shims what do you think will happen.

Ask your wife about getting into her skinny jeans fresh from the dryer, oh they fit- its just a squeeeeeeea--gimme a second squeeeee - wait let me lay down, give me those pliers to grab with I know there is plenty of room in here....
and then listen to her walk- squeek click squueek click

 

hmm. The useage of old, I understand, after all they are called "shims." However,[devils advocate] why would a brand new set of OEM pads still have double shims inner, and single outer? I achieved the shims by using those off of my old pads. How would the shims explain rotor cut? When I slid the calipers over the pads (and shims) there was plenty of clearance. therefore, there is explicitly no pad dragging unless applying brake pressure, and I drive only with one foot. [/devils advocate]

Just trying to see your POV. and i don't mean personally owned vehicle.

 

The same thing that would happen when you go to a new brake with thicker linings. 1mm retreat from maximum medial position. Like I said, there was plenty of clearance, therefore when applying brakes, full pressure = x now no matter if there is an extra mm of thickness to the object, pull foot off brake pedal and you have relieved 1mm (shims are SS, not going to just absorb a mm of braking power and then give it back while not allowing pad itself to move).
Do you see where I am coming from?

 

I would agree. Take the wheel off ans inspect for play in the brake pads and parts they slide in. Also it may be just the pad hitting some un-machined or a lip in one of the slots. Until you get some miles on them they may do it. But i woudl still take the wheel off and inspect the pads and what they are sitting in to make sure they are play free.

 

of course there is room when you push the caliper piston all the way into the housing, but if you noticed when old pads were removed, the piston is right up there tight- it does not retract very far when in normal use
You have to understand how hydraulic systems operate on a very short movement.

I would not know about OE pads as I dont use them!
Have my old set somewhere but didnt appear to have more than 1 shim per side
Maybe honda is using a thinner backing plate or pad depth- so thats why they shim as you say- I dont know-
Can you believe it! 01tl said there is another thing he doesnt know!!
Now I certain the end of the world is near!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ok so about 700 miles ago i replaced my rotors and pads.....I bedded them as required by Power Slot.....and gave them 500 miles b4 any hard or erratic braking....everything seems awesome...stops on a dime...and the shaking is gone, etc, etc.....however....I look at the wear on the rotor on the Right side...evething is fine(as shown here):





Then when i look on the Left side...it looks as though it isnt as even(the wear) as on the other side:





and i dont know why ... any suggestions? preferably Fstty or 01acura guy?

 

It appears to me that the pad isn't contacting the rotor completely. I think you have a problem with lateral runout. Did you check runout during installation?

What kind of pads are you using?

 

Also make sure the pads are floating the way they should in the slots.

 

umm you guys...im and ass and didnt check the runout...it was pouring out and i just wanted to get the dam things done....i had a pain in the ass set screw....and was frustrated from that...so i just slapped them in....and how would i check to see if the pads are floating in the slots they way they should? oh and i went with Satisfied GS6 Pads...they said the stopping power was just as good as Hawk with less dust ...

did i fcuk myself?

 

That is not runout. If you had bad runout you would be shaking. It is kind of hard to ascertain being that the pictures are tiny and out of focus. Does it look like metal to metal? We are assuming that is front, seems to be. Is that correct? Are you sure you got the right bads, didn't get oil soak on any of the pad or anything weird, they fit just like a glove when you installed them?

 

Did you grease the slots that kris is talking about? When you replaced your old rotors and pads was there anything awry that could help explain this situation? Nothing stuck between backing plate and caliper.

 

yes they are the front....there is no shake anymore(read previous posts)...it couldnt be metal to metal..they are new pads and rotors...there is NO indication that there is anything wrong....they feel fine and stop on a dime ....they went together perfectly and grease what slots "kris" was talking about and whos kris? lol

 

in order to check if the pads are floating, you would remove caliper and make sure that they freely move on the path they should if braking (toward and away from rotor in the slot freely).

How did you compress your caliper? Did you bleed your brakes? I know it doesn't make sense for metal to metal, but I can't quite make good sense out of the pics.

Remove caliper, check freedom of motion, then inspect pads on that side.

 

take the calipers off- remove the pads- clean the metal pieces that are on the bracket- they pop off,-
then where the pads clip in- the part where the tab on the end of the pad fits into the ~slider/clip~, needs caliper grease, and the backing side of the pads get a little caliper grease where the piston will contact (dont grease the caliper piston edge itself- grease on the backing plate side of the pad
And on the outer pad- see where the fingers of the caliper will contact- apply grease to those areas as well
Now put it together and check no grease got on the rotor, and grease is where its supposed to be now with caliper installed-
install caliper bolts and torque correctly- caliper bolts to bracket are ~36 foot pounds- check kragens website help for exact number for your year
Geting them too tight makes the caliper unable to slide properly.
It should move in and out from outside perspective
The pads need to have a small amount of movement in each direction up down -back n forth
If it doesnt slide now it wont later!!
Wheel lug torque 80 foot pounds
Do that- rebed and see what happens

what was the method you used- details?

 

thanks guys....i did grease all the parts i was supposed too...i even took apart the caliper and re greased the pins....i will take them apart again and recheck for floating....

yes i did bleed properly

and yes i torqued correctly

and for the bedding... i did it according to the powerslot intructions.....6 passes from 35 to 5(with moderate pressure)...with 5 minutes of cooling in between...then 4 or 5 high speed passes from 50 to 10(with fairly hard pressure, but not extreme)...all with out stopping completly and proper cooling....

im goin to re check the caliper this weekend.....

 

It seems caliper, or wack pads. However, if it was caliper, you would think you would have already seen some evidence on last setup.

 

Not necessarily, as runout does not immediately cause pedal pulsation. Overtime, runout will cause disc thickness variation, which is the cause of pedal pulsation.

Just a guess, I'm still stumped as to what's the true cause. Usually if the pads are "stuck" on the clips, the pad will still contact the rotor completely, it's just that there may be uneven wear after a while if the pad does not move correctly.

 

I want you to attempt to explain how LATERAL runout can cause uneven wear of the brake pad. It is MUCH more likely that his caliper piston is not pushing out properly, binding and therefore applying uneven pressure to the pads. If a brand new set of brakes had a symptomatic runout problem of that extent, the symptom would not be isolated to uneven wear on the pad, it would be shaking like a rabbit in heat!

 

to put it into other terms, the change in X dimension has absolutely no relationship to the theta dimension.

 

Hows the brake fluid look? ever changed?
Bleed the caliper and see what comes out
If miscro sized rust particles in there- it can cause sticking piston and unequal pressure
OR
if the pads have anything on the back of them that doesnt belong- a small tab for example- that will make the pad sit funny and wear funky

 

Yeah, I think I'm going to take back what I said. While I'm not sure if I agree with the suggestion of uneven pressure from the caliper piston, I think the problem has something to do with the pad itself.

The pad is not contacting the rotor completely. I wonder if it was the correct part number and if he installed it correctly?