beefmc

My 02 TL-P's rotors are warped..lots of shake. I have read the forums and Irotors seems to be a good brand, however I could get a good deal on some rotors from EBC, has anyone ever had experience with them??

01tl4tl

I dont know what you read but irotors last about a year then shake
EBC is goo,d Rotora is good, RacingBrake is good

FirePR2002

I have RacingBrake up front and StopTech out back. Both are good with the right pad combo. Stay away from Irotors from what I understand.

Luke7

After a lot of research and advice here I bought Brembo Blanks from Tire Rack=$138.00 shipped. I'm going with Acura pads (my original pads have 64k on them and they still have 10k of life left on them) I have the rotors and will be replacing them soon. Going to replace the front brake lines with Stainless Steel lines. My brakes have been very and I mean very inconsistant as the temp. changes. Not sure if replacing the brake lines will help but I'm going to replace them anyway. Good luck!

fsttyms1

Dont know why you would say that, mine were shake free till 70k when i pulled them off. They saw lots of track time too

beefmc

I appreciate the quick replys. Thanks to all for the advice. It sure is nice to be able to get help when you need it!! Thanks again

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

Are these the EBC you are taking about.
http://www.amazon.com/EBC-USR7087-Ul...tive&carId=001

01tl4tl

irotor comment from me based on reading ziner comments on cracking- that may be crossdrilled only - issue

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

From research I have heard the same.

Kris is just lucky when it comes to Autoparts.

jgallagher392

1999 Acura TL3.2 with 118k only owned for abot two months


I replaced my front rotors about a months ago, and now I am getting shaking in the steering wheel. I don't feel it in the break pedal at all. Any advice?

Also, when I am going up a hill my car chugs in 4th gear.... is my transmission starting to slip?

How often should I service the transmission?

myron

iTrader: (4)

thread JACKING

01tl4tl

read the tranny failure thread for symptoms
2nd and 3rd gear change or uphill lugging engine is when it shows up big

what rotors did you use- what brand of pads

beefmc

Hey dnd2984, these are the EBC's I was looking at. I was going to pair them with EBC green stuff brake pads.

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/6...0A2192046.aspx

jgallagher392

I changed the rotors this weekend and the shaking has subsided.... I picked them up from autozone. Does the brand of rotors really make that much difference?

Thanks 01tl4tl for the advice....

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

yea thats not a bad price

01tl4tl

Brand of rotor is relative to how you drive. Ultra cheap may be ok on some other cars-
but the TL is a little picky about its parts.
Basic non maniac type driving, good rotors and pads will stop the car.

Live and commute in the mountains? or hot foot hard short braking- maybe combined with that freeway traffic suddenly going from 80 to 20 all the time??,
in those cases I would get excellent rotors with extra cooling powers, and pads designed to take that kind of heat and not protest.

The best thing to protect your brakes- well 2 things- bed them in gently- meaning no full lockup to abs braking for a few hundred miles- if its an emergency -do whatever you have to, but normal bed in, just be nice to them but not totally babied.
The other thing is to cool the rotors and pads back down by just driving without using them for a few to several minutes as needed after periods of extremem use.
Getting them scorching hot then parking- you do the math~
Hi performance rotors need special break in procedures and may take up to 500 miles to get working at full ability

SodaLuvr

I just noticed that Napa's Ultra Premium rotors (Part # UP XXXXX) carry a lifetime warranty. They cost $73/each for the front rotors and as far as I can tell, they are identical to the Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, which I'm sure are good quality replacement rotors.

If their warranty truly covers warp, then this might be one hell of a deal. I'm going to call Napa tomorrow to check.

CeeGee

Shaking in the steering wheel sounds like tire balance.

01tl4tl

CG- since your new here- the gen2 TL has a well known problem with warping the stock rotors which will indeed shake the steering like there is no tomorrow~
Some of have experienced rotor probs with other replacement brands on the TL, thankfully a warranty replacement set fixed the prob-
as 1 user reported- bad enough to shake the watch off your wrist...or at least wind it for you every day!

While tires will give a vibe while cruising- rotors will shake the steering wheel on braking

beefmc

I replaced my rotors and pads last week. I chose EBC rotors (slotted and dimpled) with Hawk ceramic pads. They work great..however there is a clicking sound coming from them. It's not to loud but it is quite aggravating. Does anyone know what could be making the sound? I don't feel anything in my brake pedal, so I have no clue.

01tl4tl

when is the noise exactly and does it change?
Did you check the replacement pads for installed shims so you dont use the factory shims on them?
Is everything done properly as for lube on certain points and correct torque values on the bolts

01tl4tl

did you bed the pads and rotors?

beefmc

It is a ticking sound that starts as soon a I gather speed, the faster I go to faster the ticking sound. I did correctly bed them and the install was double checked

SodaLuvr

Sounds like a problem with the pad contacting the rotor. Did you check rotor runout?

beefmc

That is something I did not do, and that is exactly what it sounds like it's doing. If it is runout, I see it too late to return the rotors. It is something I should have checked as soon as I got them. Oh well, they still work great and I only hear the sound with my windows down, I guess it's time to upgrade the stereo!

DjMikeSkillZ

so all in all....is the power slot a good choice?

I am a aggressive driver....i live in the city...i sit in stop and go traffic alot...and i also take long drives through the mountains....im generally easy on my braking....not like the fools who ride the brakes all time...but u have to do what u have to do......

I would like to go with the powerslots with Hawk HPS ..... so all you pros out there...is this a reasonable purchase?

01tl4tl

rotora racingbrake ebc stoptech/centric are all used by ziners with good results
Whats your budget-?
traffic driving requires excellent instant cooling and serious stopping power- at least where I live,, it will go from 80 to 20 in the blink of an eye- BRAAAAKES!!!
whew~
The fronts are where you want the most power- they do 70 percent of the actual braking force- the rears can use most anything
Hawk is good pads- see thread on them for rear- needs slight mod before install
RacingBrake makes good pads- similar ability to hawk, with slightly less dusting-
they are on my 01TL
The ultimate budget $150 mod is changing the front calipers to the 2 piston units from the old Legend series- man does it stop good!!! and predicatable time after time now.
Thats my opinion~

DjMikeSkillZ

yea i was just doin the fronts for now.....i went with the powerslots with the hawks.....seemed ok at this time....i will do the backs this summer at some point...i was getting the 80 to 35 mph off ramp shake....my fronts were donesky..all grooved up....and not to mention they are the stock rotors !! so its time anyway....now for the 2 piston calipers fromt the Legend.....i can get them at most junk yards ...right ? and they bolt on ?

01tl4tl

no on the junkyard calipers- they will just need a rebuild
At kragen you can get Rayebestos part FRC10627 and 10628
thats front calipers at 75 bucks each - all freshly rebuilt- see the many threads on Legend Calipers
Its a direct bolt on- but the calipers get swapped left for right and a few small tricks to know

DjMikeSkillZ

same pads as the TL ? or do you order Legend pads? LOL and what tricks?

01tl4tl

search under legend calipers- I have written several times on the subject

jimmymack

Anybody have experience with the signature series rotors from raceshopper.com?

DjMikeSkillZ

Just did the rotors yesterday...i must say...im am so happy to not have my watch boucing around on my arm ! they feel nice....i likes

bibledriver

Is it loud always or under braking is it loud.

before I had RB rotors, I had some drilled and slotted. They were SICK loud under braking. That was with OEM pads (hard compound).

You gotta think hard brakecompound (ceramic, pretty hard) is going to generate some good noise riding those slots and dimples!

beefmc

It make that clicking sound all the time. There is some noise during braking but its not too bad. They do stop like a champ, but dang that clicking noise!

01tl4tl

did you pull the caliper to make sure there are not 2 shims on a pad back- some brands come with their own backing shim installed, and the user puts the stock/OE shims on top of them- thats not good!
Then inspect the inner pads squeeler tab- the metal arm thing that extends down towards the rotor- that can get bent and contact
Or the main backing plate the big round thing behind the rotor itself- aka, the dust shield,
it can get bent if you rest the caliper on top edge of it while working on the brakes

Noises after brake job are not to be ignored~

bibledriver

Just me, and don't

I have always put 2 shims on inner, and one shim on outer. This is a habit I got into with my old '91 accord. They were notoriously squeakers. I have seen all the oem pads on the TL with the same. What is all this fuss of 2 shims. no please. Just talk to me.

bibledriver

P.S. I have 2shims inner, as does wife, at this time also and experience no problems.

SodaLuvr

Clicking sounds are usually due to loose fitting hardware. Check the pad abutment clips on the mounting bracket. Shims are UNLIKELY to cause clicking.

01tl4tl

well matt, that explains why et300 are cutting your rotors that way, I wondered what was going on. seriously dude! I need to get new pics of mine up (repainted the calipers black for a ziner meet, and painted anything in the area too!

without flameage--the brakes of old are not the brakes of today- shims before were a precision fit adjustment device that came in different thicknesses to achieve a measured clearance yadyada- that has been superceeded by the one shim-
and some brakes, not running shims at all, as the guy at RB said to me, if we had wanted you to run them, we would have included them
also running multi shims can/will reduce needed clearance, and can make noise within themself, with movement and such
So while rare its possible this can be the noise on other members car after brake job!!

I always suspect the last thing done to the car first. A recent ziner story involved using shims on top of shims already factory glued to the new performance pads~
Once removed the OE shims on top of them- back to good brakes
thats my opinion