engine light and vsa light came on!!!!!!!!!
#1
engine light and vsa light came on!!!!!!!!!
so i just realized dat my engine light came on my 2003 tl-s so i was heading home to see if i could spot the problem and den on my way home the vsa light came on so now both lights are on can sum1 tell me wat this means please!!!!!! i looked around the forums and its said maybe a wheels sensor or a tune up please sum1 lmk as long as its not a tranny problem lol
#2
first: get to a parts store for a free `code reading`
with the warning lights on they will get a few
report back here with those and we can lead you down the diagnostic path
how does the trans fluid look and smell? black and burnt?
done any brake work recently?
an 03? whats your mileage?
Had the `oil jet kit` installed on trans under recall?
part of the covered vins for trans extended warranty?
If you could type in more English and less slang it will help the old members~
with the warning lights on they will get a few
report back here with those and we can lead you down the diagnostic path
how does the trans fluid look and smell? black and burnt?
done any brake work recently?
an 03? whats your mileage?
Had the `oil jet kit` installed on trans under recall?
part of the covered vins for trans extended warranty?
If you could type in more English and less slang it will help the old members~
#3
its an 03 wit 167000 on it and replaced rear pads like 2 months ago and i bought the car on 2nd tranny and i was gonna get a fluids changed in my car like this weekend and i will post up code as soon as i get it
#4
good new just went to advanced near my house and wen i turned on the car and drove the vsa light wasnt there anymore just the engine light found out 1 of my cylinders in misfiring just a basic tune up i just dodged one
#5
chances are high that a cylinder misfire is really a bad coil
the lights may come back on at any time
When you determine which coil is bad, replace that plug too, you are probably due for new spark plugs anyway, when were they done?,,only good for 80-90kmiles despite what the book says of 105
Use NGK Iridium, not bosch or autolite or other brands- get the correct plugs!
and the 105 service- timing belt water pump was done?
coils are about 50 bucks at most parts places in town
a TL tuneup is engine air filter, spark plugs and seafoam, cabin air filter good idea every year
the lights may come back on at any time
When you determine which coil is bad, replace that plug too, you are probably due for new spark plugs anyway, when were they done?,,only good for 80-90kmiles despite what the book says of 105
Use NGK Iridium, not bosch or autolite or other brands- get the correct plugs!
and the 105 service- timing belt water pump was done?
coils are about 50 bucks at most parts places in town
a TL tuneup is engine air filter, spark plugs and seafoam, cabin air filter good idea every year
#6
note on rear brake pads-
many makers are still using the wrong backing plate for the TL rear pads
The inner pad has 2 raised tabs on it- one at each end- one holds the low pad level warning squealer tab- the other is empty
those are the right pads
the wrong pads have an additional raised tab in the top center of inner rear pads
To do a quick ck- look under car at inner side of rear rotors- if its shiny all the way across then its good
If its got rust on half the width and shiny on other half of rotor- its got the wrong pads and only partial contact is made of the pad to rotor,,thats why the rust--no contact!
That 3rd tab gets pushed first by the caliper piston, cocking the pad as its pressed against the rotor instead of flat full contact
Ck that when strange probs after brake work
many makers are still using the wrong backing plate for the TL rear pads
The inner pad has 2 raised tabs on it- one at each end- one holds the low pad level warning squealer tab- the other is empty
those are the right pads
the wrong pads have an additional raised tab in the top center of inner rear pads
To do a quick ck- look under car at inner side of rear rotors- if its shiny all the way across then its good
If its got rust on half the width and shiny on other half of rotor- its got the wrong pads and only partial contact is made of the pad to rotor,,thats why the rust--no contact!
That 3rd tab gets pushed first by the caliper piston, cocking the pad as its pressed against the rotor instead of flat full contact
Ck that when strange probs after brake work
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