Damsel in distress: door lock actuator

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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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Damsel in distress: door lock actuator

I have spent way to much time workin' on the fiancee's TL working on what should've been a fairly straightforward project. And I will say that I've fixed it... er... mostly.:shakehead

Current "end" result (meaning, I thought I'd fixed it, so I reassembled everything and called it a day yesterday): Rear door will lock and unlock with switch and key fob, and the OEM security system/alarm now arms (not arming was the original issue that prompted this repair endeavor). Unfortunately, it now takes three clicks of the "unlock" button on the keyfob to be able to open the door (and it only requires two presses to be able to open the other rear door and the passenger door--one click, of course, to open the driver's door). I am aware that this is not standard operation for the car, and I furthermore realize I somehow messed up the installation of the new actuator. I am looking for advice/info on how to correct this, because I really thought I did it properly. It's just the the three click thing I failed to notice yesterday.

So, I have a subscription to HelmInc.com and I've conducted multiple searches here on Azine and elsewhere, which have yielded helpful results--just nothing too clear on the insertion/removal/order of the attachments, whih is what I think is where I've erred. The thing is, I must be channeling my inner moron or something, cuz I am just not clear what I'm missing. And I am wise enough to know that the input and experience of others can be prompt new ideas and a fresh approach. So, help a lady out? Thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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help?
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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you ckd the remote fob battery?
and the wires all went back to the right places?
were there 2 connectors that were the same????
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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Have no experience with that... did you use an OEM actuator?
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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I didn't wire anything, only had to plug two different-size plugs into the new actuator. Yes, @totaledTL (sorry to hear it), I used an OEM from the local Acura dealer.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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dont worry- he bought the TL totaled --and fixed it up!
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 06:45 AM
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kvan- Did you see this thread? https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/replacing-drivers-side-actuator-broken-power-door-lock-810445/

Maybe it will help?
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Thumbs up

Update: Well, I finally fixed this. Due to an insane work schedule (doctor's hours with secretary's pay... sigh), it took a few months for me to get back to this. I am not entirely sure of what specifically I did wrong or what was not installed right, but I wound up figuring out (months back, before I re-did the install) that I'd probably installed the actuator wrong. Well, that's not accurate. The actuator really only fits in there one way. But I think I did something with the door lock and door handle rods--left too much slack in them or something. I'm not sure. It didn't help that the fiancee and the neighbor were outside talking about something important, and I didn't pay full attention to what I was doing the first time. At any rate, I merely uninstalled and reinstalled the actuator, and all is good. I think I might have had the little plastic loop in the wrong position when I inserted the door lock rod. But I'm not certain. Just taking my time and dong the job right worked--took less than half the time than when i did it the first time. :-)
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