Today I Cleaned my injectors and EGR port but the failure persists. When i went for a ride to test the car it ran fine like new but after 10 minutes started failing and my CEL and TCS lights came on tohether
I've been using it like this for 2 weeks, I changed my spark plugs, didn't work.
I've read in several threads that it could be a spark plug coil as well, but my question is, shouldn't it be failing since the car start to run? why does it take a while to start stalling? is this familiar to anyone? what should I do?


Note: I haven't cheked what my my DTCs are yet. I'll post later for reference.

 

give me the dtc code before you waste more money on replacing shit you may not need. i will let you know what to do.

 

WIthout the codes we have a better chance of telling you the winning lottery #s.

 

OK, went to AutoZone and here's the list:

• P1399
• P1519
• P0300
• P0301
• P0302
• P0303
• P0304
• P0305
• P0306

I guess the problem is near the coil packs. Hopefully not all of them.
I'm planning to take the car for a complete diagnostic on a computer today.

 

random misfires and IAC valve circuit failure.

inspect/replace the IAC valve. check it first and make sure coolant level is good and bled since you would have removed and disconnected everything from the throttle body and intake manifold when you did the EGR port service
if idle drops too low it can cause misfires. if the problem still persists do a cylinder power balance test and disconnect coils one at a time to see if you have a dead cylinder, one bad coil can cause a random misfire for any/all cylinders. if you find a dead cylinder swap coils from another cylinder to confirm it is the fault of a bad coil.

try this and post back with your results. good luck

 

^ Many members have had the Multiple misfire and tried that method. It usually doesnt work unless its completely bad. Usually its just bad enough to trigger the misfire. They can trace it down by buying one new on and slowly working their way around resetting the ECU between each swap.

 

lol i think more often than not its the users interpretation of the test that is indecisive...and of course if its not misfiring at the time you are doing the test than the test wont be doing much help either

 

How's the procedure for the 'cylinder power balance test'? Do I require special tools?
I'm currently at work, so when I get home I can try that out.

 

I agree to a point but for your average shade tree mechanic without all sorts of specialized tools its hard to accurately.
These cars throw the multiple misfire code very often with no symptoms or noticeable so disconnecting one to see if it changes wont do any thing The method i described has worked for hundreds of members here and only cost them 1 coilpack (which was 99% of the time the problem)

 

agreed its almost always just one coil. no reason to be replacing a whole set

 

 

I followed the procedure of "disconnecting coils one at a time" I found a dead cylinder swapped it with a good one and confirmed ONLY 1 coil was not working! As simple as it sounds

Next step is replace it and wait to see if no other codes come up regarding the IAC valve.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna have a better sleep tonight

Thanks for the help

I'll post later for any change after replacing the coil.

 

I'm still wondering why did it work like nothing was wrong for the first 10 minutes or less and then it suddenly started malfunctioning

 

It's not uncommon for any electrical component that's on the ragged edge to only fail under certain temperature and/or load conditions. All it takes is for a connection or wire to open when it's hot.

 

true, in the case of coils high resistance usually causes the failure. (broken coil winding, poor electrical connection, etc) resistance causes heat, increased heat causes increased resistance.

OP, good to hear you nailed the bad coil!

 

Another issue come up with this now the middle rear injector is making a hissing noise and leaking gas and I can't stand that smell I remember I pulled out all of the 6 injectors to clean the burned fuel deposits but didn't replace the O-Rings Should I replace the whole set? or only on the leaking one?

Should I use a type of lubricant to install them? or just pushing them will do the trick?

 

It's probably the o ring(s) anyway. It's easier if you lube them. I don't know what's recommended, but I usually use a thin film of grease. I use petroleum grease on the theory that if any get's where it shouldnt be the gasoline will dissolve it. Based on that I would stay away from silicone grease, moly, etc.

 

you probably pushed a O ring off or broke it. Pull it back out and check. When you go to reinstall it put a small amount of Vaseline on the o ring and they will slip right into place