mikeesm

Hi I'm new and need help looks like the same problem from different owners car runs rough when engine is warm during start and fine when engine is cold during start. Took to dealer and was unable to get positive diagnoses. Is their a way I can upload a picture of the dealers diagnoses. Thanks in advance

01tl4tl

welcome to the forum
Please describe your symptoms and what codes the dealer may have given you
Year miles, things tried, any maintenance done or needed?

egr passage inside intake manifold clogs, and is often overlooked
easy diy!
were there any codes about insufficient lift in egr?

to upload pics- see full description and rules on top of main page for gen2TL thread list
there is a thread called `How to post pics` near top of list

use an outside photo hosting site (free) and add link to your thread post using- `display in webpage or forum` choice on host
its easy

again welcome! and we can figure it out and get you fixed up right

mikeesm

So that is it few months ago had the car for service. all fluids changed, waterpump, timing belt. <br/>spark plugs. also valve adjustment. always use premium fuel

mikeesm

one more thing the miles on the car is 163k

joemooch

Since it is suggested, eliminate one potential problem: order 6 injector seal kits. Relatively easy install, less than $35. Plenty of youtube help. May not be the solution, but they are probably rotting away anyhow.
RockAuto Parts Catalog
Why not order the Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator too...less than $90.
You likely spent more than that just for the diagnosis.
Good Luck Joe

silver2003tl

iTrader: (1)

Blast from the past.

Cold vs hot is a major clue. Once hot the ECU goes into close loop mode and other components active, forget them all. Also when hot metal expands. Initial guesses are: IAC valve and coil pack.

Yes EGR cleaning if code is set.

Is it only on idle or any speed. Does CEL flash while driving? Need more clues and all the codes including pending ones.

mikeesm

what brand coil pack i should buy. and it only idles rough below 1000 rpm and then after a few minutes it stabilizes.

01tl4tl

who had it apart for the 105 service?
Was the current inspection/codes done at acura dealer or other place?

they should have done the egr cleaning of intake manifold while it was removed for access to the valve adjustment,
also clean/service throttle body and IACV- that's inside throttle body- both are removed with intake manifold to reach the valves!

multi misfire codes are normally 1 maybe 2 failing coils

Coils: any aftermarket brand is fine- about 50 dollars each
RESET ecu via clock fuse method after coil install
As the invoice does not specify they did an ecu reset- different coils wouldn't make a difference unless the ecu knows they have been installed- by doing a full self test after reset!

Sure sounds like dirty egr and iacv- Idle Air Control

01tl4tl

you can test coils by removing power lead at coil, test one at a time- plug back in and move to the next= if rpm drops slightly that coil works
rpm doesn't drop = bad coil

Try holding rpm up = 1000-1500 rpm to ck for roughness/drop..it may be very slight but there

mikeesm

So its been a couple of weeks of testing. Bought one coil pack and did the changing and no difference, removed the cover and cleaned the egr ports which some where clogged. Seemed to work fine for some time but no. Will clean out the air idle control valve. Sometimes recently it was very shakey. After driving for some time and them waiting for about 10-20 minutes to start it. Very interesting. Had to turn off and on couple times to let the engine normalize instead of giving more gas.

silver2003tl

iTrader: (1)

Hi. I missed the DTC's in the image upload. Looks like no EGR code was set to I probably would have skipped cleaning it, but was probably near anyhow. It sound like the IACV - clean it, if that doesn't help, then replace it.

Also make sure you put everything back and don't miss any air/vacuum hoses.

Read this also: Honda IACV Explained

mikeesm

Well I did take the intake apart removed the iacv and cleaned it it looked dirty the metal rod the senses the air so after placing everything back waiting a little. Stated the car and it shook until final the engine light came on checked codes and same codes p0303-p9306 interesting I have not seen the cylinders 1, and 2 it always 3-6. So rest the ecm with the clock fuse and drove it. And couple times after warming up the car and letting it rest for again 10-30 minutes and restated it and no shaking as of now. So any input on what's going on. Thank you.

silver2003tl

iTrader: (1)

Darn, was hoping for you. Next up are the injectors, remove all on each rail and blast out any debris, then start selectively replacing them. Maybe isolate them one by one in a plastic bottle while running the engine, and check the spray pattern and replace the bad ones.

01tl4tl

when you cleaned the iacv did you remove the rod and clean the slit for air, and ck the chamber it fits into- rust forms in there and rod wont move
it takes a constant slight variation of its position to maintain idle

did it test good after you cleaned = rod moved freely in chamber?

regardless of egr codes-which only occur when massive clogging has taken hold=
we ALL need to clean the egr and iacv approx. every 75kmiles-
that number determined by fsttyms1 who has 600,000 MILES on his TL

where they suggest fuel pressure regulator you may want to look in our diy for Fuel Pressure RELAY
that goes bad, also has issue with the solder connection under its base-board- also in diy fixes

01tl4tl

codes are CLUES = not a diagnosis in themselves, and often mislead you

If acura tech couldn't figure it out- and they tested several things for you- its time for acurazine!!

01tl4tl

Do you run a cleaner such as BG44 or Seafoam thru the gas occasionally?
that keeps injectors clean and many other very important parts as well
1 can in just under half tank- do that 2 times for sparkling internals~

mikeesm

Yes and No cleaned the metal rod that's inside the IACV, but did not take it apart. not sure how to. Still need to check the fuel if it flows when the car is warm.
Yes I did run fuel injector cleaner several fill ups, and no change.
thank you guys for all the input!

01acls

Mikeesm, I think your answer is in another thread.

Try: 2g tl prob n fix... "Engine starts up then stalls 99 tl 102k"

Read the 2nd page.

mikeesm

NGK 4363 {#PZFR5F11} Laser Platinum are this good!

bbsitum

This tread was helpful to me. Get yesterday night rough driving and codes
P0305 cilinder 5 misfire detected. P0303 cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0306
P1457 Evap emision control system leak detected (control canister system)
P0300 random misfire detected
P1399 random/multiple misfire detected
Notice how P0305 was first in order. Logically it should be nr 6 misfiring, if ignition coil is at fault because is between 5 and 3. It turn out with pull out and switching test it was nr 5. Went to junkyard and pull out one from some Honda. Worked right away. I do not feel that need to adjust ECU. Car is driving nice.
To add for me big problem is listening to engine when ignition coil is pulled as difference is very small. If you have helper press gas pedal when you do test would be helpful. I was for awhile under opinion that nr 6 is bad. I think it can be big source of confusion in this tread.

bbsitum

I didn't see any crack at coil too. Coil looked old but didn't see any obvious damage.

OTHREETLS

I have this same issue on my 03 TL. I've changed all six spark plugs and coils, but the here and there the codes are back. There is no difference in how the car drives however, so I'm at a loss as to what the issue is

Summitdigs

Almost always a coil pack, with the engine running unplug then one at a time and if you have one that when you unplug it you get no audible difference in idle or notice it idling the same then that's your bad one, you can clean your egr ports too but it's usually a coil pack, I had 4 egr ports completely plugged solid one time and that didnt throw any misfire codes. I have OEM coil packs that are all good too if your looking for a little cheaper option.

Avalf

Jack lape

Gentleman I have a 2000 TL and I had the same issues clean the EGR valve that's going to do it ran fuel injector cleaner through there that didn't do it I found on YouTube where you take the plastic guards off the top of the engine be careful cuz the clips break really easy take your time I believe it's a 10 mm socket take them screws off the top aluminum looking plate it's on top of the engine be careful not to ruin the gasket that goes in between it's metal do not bend it I took a wire wheel on a cordless drill and cleaned up my gasket there about $125 you don't need any thing you can use copper gasket sealer if you prefer but you'll see all the galleries that are inside of their that go down into the EGR valve what you do is you take throttle body cleaner And you clean it spray it and clean it scrape it all out and it's all carbonized oil once you got it took me about an hour hour and a half to do the whole procedure took me approximately an hour and a half make sure you don't flip the gasket the wrong way put a piece of tape or something on it when you take it off so you know which way is up and which way is down you can tell by if you have any holes covered up that aren't supposed to be when you put the metal gasket back on and do not bend the gasket good luck

Avalf

bbsitum

Well one year latter same problem. This time I have only P1399. Conveniently I get it at 9pm when I was driving to bar. Check engine blinking to when accelerate. I should replace all coil pack at once past year. Didn't do so past year because read advice that it is not necessary. Maybe at new cars. At old ones should be replaced all at once. Well live and learn.

bbsitum

Why here we talk about 40$ coil as at Walmart it is possible buy 6 for 60$? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Set-of-6-...MaAmVnEALw_wcB

whitetiger5

It still sounds like a dirty EGR passage. I mean, the chances of random cylinders misfiring? very unlikely when so many others that had these symptoms resolved them by cleaning the EGR.

bbsitum

Well fixed with interesting development. Friday start to pull out electrical connectors. Started with, of course, nr 4 and right away sound of engine didn't change with pulled connector. So I put my backup coil that I brought from junkyard like 10 months go. Coil has "made in Japan" at top and it is it, no brand name. I put it in and same problem.
I tough maybe I should do that fuse 13 procedure and it will be ok - didn't happen.
Now I decided at purpose to go to bars with engine misfiring for 20 miles all together. So that computer can figure out what cylinder is misfiring. In morning checked code and it was p1399 and p0304. Notice how computer didn't point to multiple cylinders than just nr 4. Did switch nr 5 coil to nr 4 and nr 4 to nr 5 and problem just moved to nr 5 cylinder. So I went to "you pull" and brought another coil. This time it say hitachi and it is like new. Worked right away.
So in conclusion next time I will go to autozone and buy Hitachi coil, new one, for 50$. IMO for coils you need name same like for spark plugs, not just any. I will not spend my time at junkyards for f 50$.

whitetiger5

Rock auto has the oem coils for $28. That’s what most people on here swear by for such a critical component.

bbsitum

^^^ Thanks. Will check it.

bbsitum

So basically there are 3 choices - Denso, Hitachi and GNK. I found GNK at rockauto for 28$ each.

bbsitum

So can be like coil is still good but spring is gone or so something?
And it is widely eligible buy boots and spring.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/i...3/ecb4de869e48

whitetiger5

My oem are denso. That’s what’s been on my car since new, if mine ever go bad (knock on wood) I will definitely be buying from rock auto as they’ve got the best price on them.

bbsitum

^^^ This video in #114 is misleading. First spring is not pushed on then attached, hook system, to plastic at bottom. So if you pull out spring you will not be capable put new one on. And even boot is actually glued to plastic. So when I tried to pull boot out plastic of coil broke at top where boot is. Totally nonsense. Spring can not crack any way.

bbsitum

Well spring is pushed in so is removable. I managed do it. So I was wrong. Possible of center spring is reason why "made in Japan" coil didn't work. Will keep it like backup again even I did brake part of plastic on top.

bbsitum

Very interdasting.
"""""An ignition boot is also called a coil boot or a spark plug boot, and a lot of vehicles now have one ignition coil, which creates voltage, that mounts on top of each spark plug. The “boot” is what connects the ignition coil to the spark plug. It is similar to a spark plug wire but isn’t visible.

Over time, the rubber deteriorates and loses its insulation quality. The spark from the coil changes direction; instead of traveling through the boot, from the coil to the spark plug, it will shoot out the side of the bad boot and spark to the cylinder head. This causes that cylinder to misfire.""""""""""""""

bbsitum

This guy at 2:27 said what happen with my "Made in Japan" ignition coil. Spring didn't sit in center at top than rather push against coil plastic. So when I put it in hole spring didn't sit around top of spark plug then rather press against it. Coil would go slowly back out of hole because spring was pushing it up.

elsmootho

2001 Acura TL 3.2L, same issue, Codes P0300, P0301, P0303, P0306 & P1399.
Systematic swap out of coil on each of the cylinders revealed Coil #3 cylinder defective.
Shop Manual says Spark plug torque 13ft-lbs, but spark plug box FR8LCX+ Bosch Super Plus says to torque them to 21ft-lbs, any advice?

Thank you all for the great thread, was a good read and really helped me solve my problem. Special Thanks to 01tl4tl....

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