tfields04

I'm having the same problem and and I'm at the stage where I dont think its a coil... I got some B-12 fuel cleaner @ autozone. Maybe that will clean it out

lojik

Somebody have mercy please please help. Here is my story ... A few months back here is where the recent problems started. I had a tranny changed by the dealer 2 years ago at about 100k. had a 3 yr warranty since i paid for the labor(5 to 6 hundred). 3 to 4 months ago after being sure that my tranny was slightly faltering i was waiting to make an appointment when a day came that forced me to head there to the dealer asap. The car would self accelerate from normal to about 2000-2500 rpms then back down and back and forth and so-on. Took it in they replaced the tranny free of charge but said that the acceleration issue was not the tranny and some coil or cylinder had a misfire error code or something and they had to change it according to them ($160). Done. Fine when i left the dealer right away my car felt like one of those old sluggish luxury cars with a super soft but stiff steady pedal. Felt some power loss but i thought it was a new ecu with possibly new settings like I had heard was done at times by the dealer when replacing the tranny. Let it go, i thought as long as it works and they handled the acceleration issues i was ok. Then like 2 weeks ago i get an check engine light , the code read p0401 or p1401 something like that and read egr valve. Looked online for possible issues and read that there was a recall at one point because the design allowed for easy build-up of carbon deposits. So fine after much research i realized that was my issue. Went to my mechanic and had him clean out the valve and surrounding areas. He cleaned from the back of the engine where the valve is and said it was really badly clogged and cleaned it. code went away and my car had a very slight wobble while idling and the check engine camo on again and knew that to fully get the benefit of cleaning i would have to pay to or clean myself the manifold side of the egr valve. Car ran better than ever even with that little stutter while idling. I Don't think i remember the car feeling so strong. Still i knew i was not done but don't have the money to pay or info to do it myself yet. Then last night it started again with the uneasy idle to 2500 and back down then back up and while driving i could feel the uneasy self acceleration, while parked it would jump up and down in neutral or parking it didn't matter. Then i read in this forum about possible coils and fuel rail cleanings and i am just trying to stop spending money unnecessarily. should i do an ecu reset should i clean the manifold what on earth can I do and stop wasting money. will the cleaning of the manifold side solve all the problems? Did the dealer lie about a coil misfire or whatever their claim was. $160 is cheap for dealer standards so whatever they did was minimal or really easy and an excuse to charge for something please help. PLease.

lojik

I have a 99 Acura tl , (I wrote the message above and forgot to mention my make and model)

lojik

I also forgot to mention that I also heard that the dealer extended the recall warranty on TL's to 150000 miles. i have 139,000.FYI

01tl4tl

dealer cant extend warranty- only corp can and Ive heard nothing about the egr port recall on 99s being extended but call acura usa 1 800 382 2238 x5 or if in canada
1 888 9 acura 9 and ask if still covered

cleaning just the end at the valve is worthless- need to remove manifold and ream the entire length of the pathway out per our diy
99s only have 1 egr port in the manifold, unlike later years with 6! and it still plugs them all!!
Needs to be done every 75kmiles--you are way past that

coil failure is common and will cause shake, low power etc
get the codes read so it spits out possible bad cylinders
buy 1 coil at parts store or dealer and install on first listed cyl
reset ecu by removing clock fuse on passenger end of dash for 1 minute
test drive, ck codes again
If not fixed move new coil to next listed cyl and try again
always reset ecu!!
reminder cyl number order is rear from pass to driver 1 2 3
front pass to driver 4 5 6

If dealer said it needs a coil it does
160 would be a hour labor to install and test it, move if needed, plus 60 for the part
about 50 at parts store

01tl4tl

B12 fuel cleaner is ok but read carefully to use at max allowed dose- not minimum,,as in treats 12 to 25 gallons--you want it in 12 gallons 3/4 tank

seafoam and bg44 are also excellent fuel system cleaners, so is redline SI-1 but ALL need to be used at max,,and probably do it twice

lojik

i do not have permission to access the diy 99 tl egr port clean can somebody send it to me please?

01tl4tl

diy section, list here https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/
and the 99 specific pics are in this one
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-thermoblok-spacers-install-egr-cleaning-615644/
skip the instruction of removing and changing bolt studs unless adding a thermo spacer,,rest of the diy is the same for remove intake and clean egr system

lojik

I have looked at the one that has the spacer kit,(which I did not catch what it was for or what it did) and the other one
99 EGR port cleaning
http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF
I cannot access. Which is the best or right one.

Also is there a DIY on the one by one coil removal and testing with reset of the ecu? If someone can send me that i would really appreciate it.
I noticed i did not put an e-mail and I am not sure if I can receive personal messages so..... thebignastie@yahoo.com.
Thanks everyone.

01tl4tl

use the one here
thermo spacer is a performance add on that goes between manifold and engine block
www.outlawengineering.com

coil- see spark plug DIY for all info on removal

search for specs on testing it

lojik

@01tl4tl, I really appreciate all your help, I see that you have given a lot of input and help in many forums and really I wanna say thanks and let you know as I'm sure you do that it is incredibly appreciated.

When my car was taken to the dealer a few months back, and had the tranny changed and the very rhythmic auto acceleration (up and down) Fixed. When they said a misfire on the coil and they changed the coil, they are referring to the plastic that is unscrewed to remove and pull out the spark plug? I read here somewhere that coils are really expensive and to try one at a time. In the DIY spark plugs it says the coils were like $15 for the set, can you let me know exactly what it is the dealer changed when referring to the coil misfire? I don't quite follow the coil concept, it looks like you mean the rubber/plastic plug that is pulled out to reach the spark plugs. I know I have to clean my intake/egr port but I think the immediate hindrance that is not allowing me to drive is the bouncing excessive idle. So I wanna do the coils to eliminate the issue I have withe the rhythmic jumping idle to 2500rpms. I will def. clean my port but as far as the idle bouncing is concerned could I please get a bit of direction how and what and where the coil is exactly and what is required to replace it? Thankyou. Sorry for the excessive questions, just can't afford to fix my car much less make a mistake and cause more expensive damage. I'm not an idiot and I have an inclination to be able to do things like this and am confident I can do it, but I would like to make sure I am properly identifying all parts correctly as well as understanding the parts that you and the post are referencing. Again tremendous Thanks.

01tl4tl

thanks for appreciating my writings, glad they do help some members!!

if you look at the spark plug DIY you will see a plastic device held on by 2 allen screws- thats an actual coil
remove its electrical connector and the screws- pull straight up
Coils are about 50 bucks each for the TL

old cars had a cap and rotor systm with 1 coil and wires to each cylinder.
thats all been replaced with one coil per spark plug for better efficiency

have a parts store read the codes for free- see if still getting misfire codes
If not, its not a coil
rythmic to 2500 sounds more like iacv type control or massive vacuum leak than a coil,,but I have been wrong before

IACV is a simple cleaning to remove carbon crud while you have it off to do the egr port cleaning
If more than 75kmiles I would do that cheap cleaning first- often cures many things
3 cans carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger, plus 2 small gaskets are the expense~

preorder a few days before so it arrives in time: 1 iacv cover gasket (rubber) and a TB to manifold gasket

01tl4tl

have you ckd the motor mounts front and rear for oil traces,,those are oil filled!!!
many years are also vacuum line boosted and mount failure causes vac leak

ck all vac lines under hood and at engine- ends are good- on tight- no slipping

01tl4tl

to reset the ECU after coil change pull the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dashboard inside car
I think its number 13 but read to be safe

after 1 minute put the fuse back in

lojik

WOW that's fantastic, All very good stuff, Thank You. I have already had my mechanic clean the egr valve and area from the port plate and my understanding is that that is an exterior type of cleaning. The real stuff is in the manifold, Right? Anyway before that was done my car idled really weird and awkward and sometimes excessively low, I was used to the super sick Honda/Acura steady Idles that I love. When that was cleaned, finally my car felt so free again with a good steady idle and much more responsiveness and moved about with much more and I do mean much much more ease. Bottom line , I felt we were obviosly scrathing in the right place so that made me really happy. The little bit of the problem that was left was that when in drive stopped at a light if I let off the brake like if I was about to hit the gas, the car had a tiny sputter ,aside from that, all fine when I drove, super strong and everything, just the spudder when idle, and the other was the check engine light that turned on again and kept reading "egr". So that told me that there is more to be done there, probably from the other side.

This bouncing idle thing is the exact same symptom that the I had when I took the car to the dealer months earlier, almost to a tee. If maybe it has always been the IACV type control and that what they fixed and told me otherwise , should i just take it back to the dealer as a warranty follow-up on the work they did or could it have been a misfire then and the IACV now and it just so happened that the exact same symptoms happened for 2 entirely different things? As far as the egr cleaning goes , are you saying running the can through the gas system at either 1 or 2 ounces per gallon could fix it all or is the manifold side thing necessary anyway if it has not been done? I want the most permanent and best results so I would prefer the "better" recommendation than the "easier" one.

On the coils part does "the plastic device held on by 2 allen screws" include the round tube attached to the bottom of that piece that has the 2-prong plug?

I really Thank You for your time and attention while helping me. I'm embarrassed to be asking so much but I just don't know where else to turn and you are being so completely compassionate with your help and I send a Centillion Thanks to you for that.

lojik

Also , Sorry I forgot 1 quick thing. If I end up being in the possession of a scanner while doing the coils. When doing the reset parts, can I reset with a scanner or does the reset have to be a "hard" one in the form of a fuse removal?

01tl4tl

the fuse removal forces a master rest and is better than just a scanner clearing reset

the intake manifold MUST be removed from the engine and to the workbench to run carb cleaner sprayed into the egr port from the valve end and the opposite end
plus any openings get cleaned too
soften crud and ram thru with the wire
Read the diy its all in there
spark plug diy will answer your coil questions

months later a problem occurs--dealer is not liable more than 90 days
Finish the egr cleaning the correct way, the azine way~ and see how it runs
Plugs and everything else is ok?

seafoam in the gas wont clean the egr,
it will clean the fuel system,injectors, intake valves, piston tops, o2 sensors and cat

only way to get egr port(s) and passageway is solvent/carb spray and a pusher rod of some sort

99s have 1 egr port in manifold and a recall to clean it once and install a smooth sleeve, later years have 6 ports, 1 per cyl

01tl4tl

if you removed the egr valve and its port was clogged,,you can imagine the passage thru the manifold to the other end- and port- is in the same condition,,, or worse

01tl4tl

seafoam ratio is `maitenance dose` done midyear, 1 oz per gal or 1 can to just under a tankfull

CLEANING dose is 2 oz per gal fuel, or 1, 16 oz can to 8 gal fuel, just under half a tank

full tank is 17.3,, low light comes on a 3 gal remaining
Most I ever put in my 01 to refill- way past empty reading, 16.8 gal to first shutoff of nozzle

lojik

OK I will def clean the manifold side of the egr port. All cables and hoses looked OK to my untrained eye, I def looked to find any irregularities but again, untrained eye talking here. You sounded a bit thrown back by the car reaching the 2500rpm mark and I felt that based on your knowledge and initial reaction that there was more than likely something to it when you began to point at other possible reasons for that type of jump so i decided to go and get an exact parameter of the fluctuation.Just to be clear on the speed of the fluctuation the needle never got lower than 1000 and never passed 2000 to be exact. It averaged 1000 to 1800 and every other 3rd or 4th was up to 2000 but never passed it and all and this happens every second (as in 50 to 60 times a minute roughly).

Finally got my hands on a scanner again. So I checked the code, the only one that came up this was the egr again so I got to thinkin since you weren't too convinced in the first place that it was a coil by the souds of things and there physically was no misfire code other than the egr.(I don't normally needlessly risk my car) But since there were no other codes I decided to clear it and go for a spin in hopes of the fluctuations fixing themselves electronically with the ecu's help. So I left and by the time I got to the next block they were gone. Idle basically back to before the incident with a bit of wobble but back nonetheless.

Based on that do you feel is it safe to say that I am back to where I was before? In serious need of a manifold side egr port cleaning, and no need to worry about a possible bad coil since I was able to idle normal for my situation? I drove for about 3 to 5 min. Gonna go again and test longer right now but I wanted to give you the scanner analysis along with my test run results. Thank You once again.

lojik

Again I forgot to ask you one of the most important things I was thinking. I doubt that when my mechanic cleaned the egr area he did a hard reset by pulling off the fuse. Do you think that based on what I've told you so far that that is something I should do coil or no coil?

Also , when my mechanic told me the egr was filthy that is exactly what what I asked him as well. If that side is filthy don't you think the other side is the same? And of course his answer was "more than likely" but he also said that normally when cleaning the egr area that what he did is the way it is done. I , so in my head I said thank God for ACURAZINE and the info I read about the azine way of properly addressing the egr problem. That's when I decided to build up my confidence through research to be able to do the cleaning myself
(oh yeah since he wanted 300 just in labor). This idle issue pushed the issue but had I not read here before I took it anywhere who knows how much more I would have spent on engine search and rescue missions by now and I also now know that we would have been looking in other places once the cleaning of the egr was cleaned to "normal" standards since we would of figured that it could not have been that any more. WOW I am very so very very Grateful to all that continue to help others and in my case to you specifically 01tl4t. Wow such a rare quality of human being.

01tl4tl

wow thank you very much!!

Im sticking with pull the intake manifold and clean egr properly- plus never go to that guy again

doing an ecu reset wont fix the egr plugging
Clean the IACV on the TB too and that should fix you up
(hopefully--- I can be wrong- just ask the wife)

lojik

Ok great, is there any where on the TB (for some reason I thought you meant Timing Belt which scared the snot outta me but looking in the diy section I now know you mean Throttle Body) or and the manifold or an the IACV or any where that cannot be touched with the carb cleaner? I am very fear-full of it touching the wrong places or residues being left over and them messing up my plugs or a sensor or valve or something that would need to be troubleshooted till the cows come home before we realize it's probably a bit of cleaner messing with a part? I think I really feel confident to get in there now Thanks to this incredible direction I was given here.

I hope I have no need for it but I know that if I come across something unexpected or make a mistake there are very (in)credible honest people here willing to go the Good Samaritan route with me.

Also 01tl4tl, I don't really want more "power" per-say cause I know that with more power normally comes worst gas mileage but that's not what the outlaw website says as far as the thermo-block spacers are concerned. Is that something you would personally recommend as a long term improvement or upgrade or more of a power/speed modification?

THANKYOU with the most sincerest of Thanks that I can give. You literally saved me heart-ache and pain and this is one of those times in your life when you know beyond the shadow of a doubt that GOODNESS still exists and is more importantly still in practice. THANKYOU, Enjoy your Christmas and New Years and I hope you continue to be blessed in all that you do 01tl4tl.

4stl

I got the same error codes and changed out the coil pack and it solved the problem. I went to the Honda dealer and picked up: 30520-P8E-A01. Thanks to all for solution.

01tl4tl

reminder: reset the ECU by pulling its secret backup power= the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash - for 1 minute then reinsert..
after coil install- clears all codes and starts fresh relearn towards good running

SarahSTAR401

Did your car smell of gas at all? My car is having the SAME issues but i have different error codes and car smells lightly of gas.

Demonic

I had the same problem about 3 days ago.

First I just was given the code P1710 -Transmission Controller.

Then a few days later was receiving misfires in numbers #2,3,4,5.

I switched around (2) of the coil packs and bought (1) and replaced it and it fixed everything.

While looking at the coil pack I replaced, the stem pretty much fell off the head....I was like WTF...excuse my language.

I guess this is the second lemony item, other than the tranny that I have noticed on my 2001 CL-S.

CHANGE ALL 6 IGNITION COIL PACKS!!!! WORKED FOR ME!!!

Too bad they cost around $45 each but easy...well somewhat easy to change....all you need is an allen wrench and patience....should take you about 15 to 20 minutes maybe......brand new car again.


Until the next thing that goes!

GOOD LUCK ALL!

This post saved my life....thanks guys!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Ok i am trying to troubleshot my problem but i have no luck with it. Engine runs fine now after i replaced plugs, 2 coils, cleaned egr, and checked grounds. Car is running great but when i push it to the higher rpms CEL will flash and disapear giving me P1399, after few times it becomes lit and have all the misfire codes P0300-P0306 and P1399. Next step i think i will run injector cleaner or seafoam... Which one is better ? I did compression test and its all good and even on all cylinders. 112k miles on the car. If that doesnt help i will do valve adjsutment and if that doesnt help i will probably do the injectors. any ideas ?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^ I'm wondering if the CT-E fuel regulator and Walboro hi-flow fuel pump for the S/Cer set-up is having an unforseen affect on your cars NA performance at the top end?
How, though, I could not say. Just a thought.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Yeah good idea but i had same issue when i ran supercharger just before i took it off.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Were the top end misfires occuring before the OEM regulator/fuel pump were removed for the S/Cer install?

I do not want to send you on a 'wild goose chase'; however, I'm just saying that the CT-E regulator/Walboro FP are the only non-OEM components that you have in the car, at the moment, that are not 'stock' to the car.

01tl4tl

adjust the valves
run 1 can seafoam thru just under half tank of gas to get injectors spotless
repeat on next tank or so,,1 can to 8 gallons gas

or do the vac port method--master port at tb!! with 1/2 can, AND once thru gas tank

how old are the plugs? ckd recently for heat index wrong with s/c or other wearout?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Once i removed SC i did put brand new oem spark plugs.

Right after SC install everything was fine then one day i start having the issue. I really dont want to remove FPR and put the stock fuel pump too but i would check if the fuel filter is clean. Then im gonna do the seafoam through the tank only since i did seafoam the IM like 20-25k miles ago.

I have a plan to do valves tomorrow.

I can hear slight taping noise from the exhaust but i never overreved the engine. I think it may be affected somehow by my flywheel that is unbalanced. But i will take care of that within few weeks(new clutch and flywheel are here.

Maybe i should try raise/lower the Fuel pressure ? Idk.

The taping noise its barely noticeable like you would tap the wooden table with your finger.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

lol, I don't blame you, that would be a PIA.

Good Luck.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

I think i got it. After i fixed grounds CEL doesnt come on. It only flashes and disapears P1399. Im going to do valve adjustment tomorrow

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i did the valve adjustment today and still flashing P1399 and then it goes away

AllUpOnYaChin

I just bought an 05 tl a few months ago and I am having the same problem as of 2 days ago. I have a misfire on cyl 1 and 5 and random misfire. I am going to try the plugs and maybe the coils and go from there. How do you reset the ecu after I do this? Thanks in advance guys

01tl4tl

chances are its 1 coil failure- assuming plugs are good
buy 1 aftermarket brand at local store for 50 bucks
test the coils by removing power lead to one at a time- rpm should drop slightly
if it doesnt- you found the bad coil

on passenger side- open front door- access fuse box on end of dash
remove CLOCK fuse for a minute and reinsert
thats the secret backup power for the ECU

AllUpOnYaChin

Thanks very helpful but one more question, to reset my ecu I went to pull the fuse and I don't see a fuse for the clock. My #13 fuse is AS, P/SEAT, (REC). It's an 05 if this helps. So would I still use the #13 or? Thanks in advance.

chanslor87

i didnt read every post and i know nothing about honda vehicles on a count that all my cars have big block v8s. have you tried running a dry and wet compression check?? and your valve degrees within spec? whats the intake ambient temperature?? if its nothing simple like you have already tried maybe its something internal. i suggest you also buy a few manuals and do some reading.