Pretty sure I already know the horrible truth, but figured Id ask:

During a sharp right hand turn, under acceleration, we're getting a clicking/creaking noise that seems like its coming from the drivers side cowl area. My guess is wheel bearing or CV joint. Not quite sure how to pick one or the other, but since it seems to happen only under acceleration Im going with CV joint.

Anything else to look for? The boots are intact, I dont see any moist areas like the grease leaked out. But the car is 10 yrs old with 102K miles, so its possible its just time.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris

 

boot doesn't have to be torn to have a bad cv joint making noises.

time for a new axle. wheel bearings usually hum from what i understand.

i've had the clicking CV joint on my 3G TL with a lot less miles and my old civic HB back in the day with 125k mi. it's not the end of the world. my TL had an intact boot while the civic had a cracked boot (car was 10-12 yrs old at the time).

 

Should I replace both or just one?

On the theory that if one goes the other probably isnt far behind.

 

You don't have to do both unless the boots on the other side are torn already. Turning right and clicking points to the drivers side axle- outer cv joint

 

replace only what needs to be replaced. did that on the civic...it was fine. replaced both on my TL only b/c the other axle was having issues with the inner CV.

 

Yeah, clic...clic while turning is normally a sign of a bad axle bearing. The creaking could possibly be a worn ball joint or strut upper bushing. You're going to have to take a closer look at the suspect areas to know for sure.

 

Yeah Im not sure what to look for. The boots themselves look OK, and I wasnt hearing this clicking/creaking while turning WITHOUT getting on the throttle at the same time. Its only under throttle.

Just a visual of the strut area looked OK, didnt see anything out of the norm (compared to the other side as well). The fact that it seems to be coming from so close to the cowl area makes me wonder if it is indeed an upper strut thing vs an axle bearing.

 

One way would be opening the drivers window turn left and drive, now close it do the same with the passenger side window open it turn right and drive.
The idea is to pinpoint where the clicking is louder, make sure to have the radio off and blower.
Theres other ways but this one is the simplest and less dangerous.

 

Its definitely coming from the drivers side. My only question is if its an axle or something suspension related.

The fact that it only does it under acceleration makes me think its an axle thing, but I could be wrong. Its going to be deathly cold out for the next few days so I wont be taking a look at it just yet, but once its somewhat not freezing out Ill pull the wheel and look around some more. I yanked on a few of the suspension components (strut, spring, sway bar, etc) and nothing moved, but Ill try to go at it with a pry bar and the wheel off the ground.

 

Its the axle for sure just make sure the plastic inner fender is clipped on and not hanging.

 

Thanks. Having a shop check it out just to be sure, Ill have them fix it while they are at it so hopefully the diagnosis is free (or credited towards the cost of the fix).

I was able to take a look around after pulling that wheel off and didnt see anything out of the ordinary. Didnt seem to be any play in the balljoints, axle boots were intact (even though it might not mean anything), the inner fender seemed to be on there and no marks where the wheel might be hitting it, etc.

One question - the service manual procedure for replacing the left axle states to drain the transmission fluid. Does everyone follow that instruction? The DIYs Ive seen have never stated that, but I wasnt sure if they were using the left as an example.

 

Make sure the shop uses a new, not remanufactured axle. I've run into a lot of vibration problems with them as several others here have as well.

 

Yeah already talked to them, they are using a brand new axle purchased from a local Carquest.

Ive always had excellent luck with Carquest parts, so I presume the shop would have the same (and since Id be *itching at them if it doesnt work right, its in their best interest to use something decent)

Carquest said the axle is made by USA Axles.

If I was going to DIY it I would have gotten an OEM axle (only $156 from Acura Automotive Parts), a Raxles unit, or a Napa MaxDrive new.

 

When you pull out the drivers side axle it will leak some atf, you don't need to drain it.
Just put back in the same amount that came out.
When I first did mine I freaked out thinking I damaged the tranny but all was fine soon as the new one was put in.
Like 3.2TLc mentioned avoid reman axles, I myself had to replace both with new ones after 3 months on the remans.

 

you might as well replace both of them. new aftermarket axles are very cheap compared to acura axles
the shop should give you a break on labor since the car is on the lift already

 

Actually that was TLer trash recommending the "new" axles when replacing old worn ones. This is good to know as mine are still original at 180k. In the past, I've used remans on other cars to save costs....but the brand new axles have come down alot in price and makes for a better alternative these days.

 

Yeah, I remember the day when FWD was "new" and CV joint replacement was a $1K+ ordeal. Now its cheaper to replace the whole axle with joints already installed than it is to replace one single joint (the OEM CV joints are 275 each, but the axle with both inner and outer joints installed is 156 lol)

Im only having a shop do it because its going to be dangerously cold. The other axle isnt making any noise (yet), so if it came down to it I would do it myself when its warm outside.

The part is going to cost them about 70 bux, which leaves 180 for labor. At about 85/hour, its only about 1.5 hours of labor, which seems about right for an axle (counting cleanup time, etc). So Im not sure how much of a discount I would get on the other side. Im also trying to keep cost to a minimum, because Ive been jaded by the stupid transmission....dont want to spend an extra 200 to send it down the drain if the tranny dies next week

As far as the fluid replacement, Im going to leave some of my quarts of Z1 on the drivers seat for them. Im not sure they are expecting it to leak out when they pull the axle or not (they probably are, but Id rather be safe than sorry). I guess its an easy way to get one of the 3x3 done for nothing

 

Ya may wanna consider getting the new axle @ $156 and then find another mechanic willing to do the install for $100.
Make sure that they inspect the other suspension and steering parts while doing this job. They should do a D&F for free !!!

 

I trust this shop, so Ill go with what they use. And I know they will check it out for free, they've done it before.

Had a waah waah waaah noise that I was worried was a bearing, they spent an hour with the car swapping wheels to make sure it wasnt...turns out it was the tires, and they didnt charge me anything so I give them my business when I can.

 

Oops sorry about that 3.2TLc. New Napa axles is what I have on my TL and they have been perfect since day one 2 years now.

 

So ya have been having other issues going on previously by the sounds of things. Wonder if the tire "waahing" was caused by the worn axle ? Did your mechanic fully inspect the front suspension and steering at the time of the other noise problem ?

 

I wasnt there WHILE they checked the car, but they had it for a while and came back and said it was the tires. I replaced the tires (not through this same shop, so its not like they were making $$$ off it) and the noise went away, so to me it sounded like they were correct. This was spring of 2012, so its been a while. I also figured if it was something else (ball joint, wheel bearing, etc) the tires would wear uneven, but from what I can tell they are wearing perfectly even.

Just dropped the car off....on the way I messed around with it a little and could actually get the clicking to occur turning in EITHER direction. But the noise is still only on the left side. Lets see what they come up with.

 

Inspect the brakes, A warped rotor moves brake pads side to side along with the caliper.

 

Rotors should be good, just replaced them last year. Pads are good too (were replaced at same time). They WERE warped before, but the replacements have held up nicely.

The shop got back to me. BOTH front axles need replacing. Having it done now.

Considering I figured the left axle needed replacing, their diagnosis makes sense. I didnt hear the right axle making noise, but that doesnt mean its not on its way out (as someone mentioned before)

 

Yea definitely replace both, they work in pair.
Save money and down time.

 

All done! Both axles replaced, no more noise!

Seems to steer easier too. One issue down, a few to go (valve adjustment, EGR cleaning, rear motor mount)

 

I had very good luck my the re-man axles I put in my cars. Both Subaru and my v6 Accord. And they where cheap....54.00 each!