So I let someone drive my car and it was put into sport mode and I'm guessing they didn't shift up as we entered the highway and a long clanking sound started occurring. I checked if it was any of the belts were loose or wiggling around which there wasn't and also checked if there was enough oil and that seemed to be fine. The sound got louder and louder if accelerated and to me I'm pretty sure it's coming from the intake manifold area. So I had my car towed to shop in York, NE since it was only place open and they said it might be a bearing or a value problem, has anybody experienced this before? or have any insight on this?

 

These engines like to be rev'ed and the car has a safe redline.
The transmissions do not like high rpm gear changes.

If you make a video that might help narrow down the problem.

 

I'd love to post up a video but its in the shop right now and it won't get worked on until monday which is when the shop opens. But i'll try to further explain the sound. Whenever I start up the car the sound starts to begin along with the start-up. When idling its a steady clanking sound but when revved it'll start getting louder and louder and faster but as rpm goes down so does the loudness and speed of the clanking sound. It can't be any of the pulleys or pumps because before I drove down to Nashville and had my timing belt replace and also before leaving Nashville I got an oil change.

 

I wonder if something went south with your timing belt replacement job.

When you get a chance post a video of the sound.
Maybe you inside the car revving it and you holding the camera around the engine bay.

 

alright i came to the auto shop and they found out the problem, they gotta do an engine rebuilt. They said a value broke or something so the sound was the piston and a rough estimate would be around 2-10g. Man this is a pain in the ass

 

sorry to double post but has anyone ever had to do an engine rebuilt? Was wondering how much it was going to cost with parts + labour and everything because I don't want to feel like I'm getting ripped off. I'm getting my car done at Penners Auto in York, NE they said they contacted a bunch of places for engines and found one place for 2500 i believe but they are waiting for a callback from acura

 

I've never had my engine rebuilt but I would get a type s motor from a junk yard or a 3.5 liter motor for way less than that

 

Yeah I went to check a couple of sites of car junk cards in lincon, NE thats close by to york but if anyone would recommend me a good place I would very much appreciate it. But I came by this website http://www.olstons.com can I chose either base or type-s engine or does it have to be base since my car was base model?

 

You can just put in a type s engine but you wont get the most out of it without a type s ecu and a rpm switch for the intake manifold release control. Type s ecu allows it to rev until 6900 rpm. Also the gauge cluster is different but you don't have to get that.

 

thanks for the quick reply man I appreciate it. The shop called me back quoting me $2500 for a used one and about $8500 for a new one, I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the used one but I found a used engine off olson's auto for $450

 

No problem I would just try to find one with low miles in a junk yard

 

You can also check car-part.com they have a wider search you can do

 

Needing an engine rebuild is very, very rare on a TL or j-series motor.

Go with a used motor.

Is it possible they made a mistake when installing your timing belt?
Did you have the timing belt done at Acura or this place?

 

I got my timing belt done in Vancouver,BC from my dad's friend shop so it shouldn't be that but I was wondering how reliable is a used engine? Would it break on you anytime soon or is it still good to go

 

it is quite rare for this to happen...

 

well I don't know to much about cars but what I'm thinking happened was the person driving my car had it in sports mode and didn't shift up so it stayed redline and broke whatever it broke and the sound was the piston hitting against something

 

Definitely go with used engine. But make sure you do the timing belt before installing it in your car. And I would change the rear main seal too. Perfect time to do this.

 

Well, the poor guy has a broken valve. He is lucky enough not needing a new engine block, but just a rebuild job.

What happened was likely a stretched timing belt which slipped a clog or two, thereby screwing up all the valve timing at high vehicle speed. A valve hit the top of the piston and broke off. It is possible that some other valve stems will also be bend too.

In some cases, the piston connecting rod broke off and poked through the wall of the cylinder block, and thus a new cylinder block was needed.