FuriousSam

Hi all,

A little history: I have the Viper alarm installed about 3-4 years ago and the door unlocks itself whenever the car is off (I remember the car doors used to stay locked even if I turn the car off with factory alarm).

Now the problem: I was driving on the highway last week when the car died all of a sudden (lost of power - felt that whiplash, dash lights on (TSC, check engine, etc...), doors unlocked (Viper alarm), etc...). I felt something broke off inside the engine and the car came back alive (all lights off, car got power, doors locked itself, etc...).

At the time, I thought it might have to do with the EGR port and not getting enough air (kind of choking itself to death type of thing) and it felt the same when I Seafoam it (The car felt sluggish after Seafoam until the cycle goes through then voom).

So I went to order the kit and got all the tools I need for the EGR job. The ThemoBlok hasn't arrive yet and hopefully I will get it soon and clean the EGR this weekend.

Now the same thing happened today except that I gave it gas after about 2 seconds of it happening and the car came back alive (nothing felt breaking off this time). So I am not too sure if it's just airflow anymore. There's no codes in the car and I don't even know where to begin to look for problems except to start with the EGR as planned.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

-- Sam

my.daily'tl'

My first thought was...ignition switch. And you think something inside the engine broke? Does she still sound and run the same? Wonder what could lock up at highway speed with ignition cutoff?

FuriousSam

When I said broke, I meant the carbon build up inside the manifold. I will be taking care of that soon.

I thought that I can't start the car if the ignition switch goes bad?

01tl4tl

no- it will cut off ignition for a few seconds- dash lights come on- car dies-
then power is suddenly restored and car drives on like nothing happened

are you driving a 99?- those had a recall for the switch (for 1 time- but those all failed another 2-3 times in the cars life) other years just have to buy one and diy

do you have a bunch of keys on the ring? weight hurts the internal contects too
One ziner took the switch apart and found tons of crud buildup- cleaned it and installed- works perfect again!

my.daily'tl'

That was me tl....i had that weird alternator not charging problem. Totally unrelated to the switch.

FuriousSam

Yes, the car is a 99 and the ignition switch was replaced a long time ago. I'll work on the EGR first this weekend and report back.

Thanks!

01tl4tl

a 99!!!!!!!! just go buy a new ignition switch back
thats what makes the car cut off and come back on, and the recall OE replacement back then=== was the same piece of junk!!!

clogged EGR will screw up performance but not make ignition cut off

I think OPs seafoam technique may need work

FuriousSam

I just took the manifold off and the EGR was clogged really bad! I will post some pictures tonight, just sprayed some of that TB cleaner - it's going to a long afternoon, lol.

The coolant return hose from the TB was giving me a really tough time and won't come off, so I had to take the manifold off first and slide the TB off and get to the hose.

I'll look into the ignition switch and get to that after this job.

P.S. I followed your DIY guide for the seafoam!!!

Thanks.

FuriousSam

I knew it was bad, guess seeing is believing.



Thanks all!

Now onto next project, lol.

01tl4tl

that single port on 99s gets it really bad
but all years are subject to it and should be cleaned every 75kmiles

FuriousSam

How much am I supposed to tighten for the new double sided screws that came with the Themoblok kit into the manifold? I am asking because after driving about 100 miles, I already have to retorque those nuts...

I am going to replace the ignition switch tonight after work, the DIY looked easy and I removed the covers before, so maybe an hour job max.

Thanks!

01tl4tl

its a stud right with a non thread section in the middle--threads on each end same as what you took out?
double nut it on `TB end of stud` and install stud to manifold
It should stop when it needs to- you will feel it tighten up

then remove the 2 nuts and slip TB in place
clean the IACV before anything- guaranteed problem if not done now~

FuriousSam

Do the Viper alarm slice into the ignition switch? I just replaced it and trying to disarm the alarm with no avail. Too scared to start the car and drain the battery like last time before I disabled the alarm...

FuriousSam

Yes, that's the one I am talking about. I Guess it's time to redo the whole thing!

FuriousSam

Ok, I didn't want to leave the car windows down while getting dark so I went to start the car... it started! But now I see that the Viper alarm is tie to the old switch. Anyone know how I can tie the starter to the new switch?

01tl4tl

ck viper website or their tech support line?

FuriousSam

I found the installation guide online and it does cut into the ignition switch. I am going to hold off on switching it over for now to make sure it was not the alarm that was shorting the car while I was driving (good thing it's summer).

01tl4tl, thanks a lot for all of this! It was definitely different getting to work on the car myself and I definitely closer to the car now than just changing the oil/tranny fluids. I am getting myself the Craftsman tool set today at 50% off, so definitely making a list of other things I want to do to the car soon!

01tl4tl

congrats on investing in yourself instead of padding some shop owners pocket!

FuriousSam

I removed everything again today and tightened the double threaded screws; now the car is smooth and quiet - I love it.

I have a question regarding the throttle body cables: I loosened them last week from the bracket then tightened them back once everything is completed. However, the feeling on the foot is different than before. It's probably because the nuts weren't tightened back to the way it was. Question: How would I go about tweaking it (tighten it away the TB will make it more responsive - shorter cable)?

01tl4tl

for this you want to remove the snorkel tube to TB

press down on the cable with your thumb lightly= it should go down about 1/2 inch max
needs some play
Have helper go to full throttle with pedal, as you watch the plate inside TB move to flat position- wide open at full throttle

too loose and they wont pull far enough to get that position
Too Tight is bad! that prevents it from closing so the iacv system can take over idle air amount

too tight can `in some cases`- pull the plate past horizontal and lower the amount of air getting thru = not what you wanted~

01tl4tl

lube the cables- hold end up and spray deep creep- wd40 or silicone lube into housing

tip- put rag under gas pedal to soak up stuff as it exits line

lube throttle return spring assembly