2001 TL. I just noticed my disc pads are REALLY getting down to replacement time. Are there any surprises as far as removing the calipers and rotors? special tools? Been a gearhead for over 50 years but never addressed Acura brakes...

thanks in advance..

 

very simple. Probably the easiest you have ever done. Hardest parts are going to be the useless screws that hold the rotors inplace for assembly. Get a impact screw driver (the one you hit with a hammer) or drill them out if you cant get them or strip them. They are not needed.

 

Thanks! much appreciated!

 

here is our diy master list, and there are other brake diys that havnt made it to the master--so scroll thru or use search
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/

those 2, #3 phillps retainer screws can be a pita- presoak, and impact driver,, with a good hammer swing behind it~
Ck torque specs for bracket and caliper ~40 caliper and 60 bracket

Im am a fan of flushing the old brake fluid out before working on brakes-
just so it doesnt backwash/swirl crud inside caliper and cut the oring seal
as you compress the piston to make room for the new pads

You have no doubt seen ugly fluid in your years and understand why its a safety precaution-prevention issue,,save you money by not hurting things while you work..

at least flush the system afterwards if not before~ but all should do it

note: rear disc rotors contain a mini set of drum brakes for the park brake system

 

special note!!!!!
the TL -due to abs plumbing- has a special flush/bleed order different than most cars

its driver front, then clockwise around the car (from driver view) = LF RF RR LR
strange but true

 

Sometimes you have to drill the heads off those screws.

Like a Boy Scout, BE PREPARED!

 

Thank you all for the input! What socket size are those caliper bolts? Or are they like GM, Allen heads?

 

you need a metric socket/wrench set,, its a 14mm caliper and 17mm bracket iirc, and a 10 for the brake line bracket to strut

reminder: do not hang the calipers by the hose!!!- dont set them on the rotor or similar where they will get knocked around as you remove the screws.
always secure caliper out of the way !
I use a couple of zip ties together to make a long one- and hook around strut spring thru caliper cutout--you will see

never hurts to spray clean the speed sensor ring on axle hub

the TL is picky about clean and lubed parts in the brakes- the sliders where the pads move across- lube the pad backs to contact points--you know, ~the good brake job~
synthetic caliper grease suggested for higher melt point

 

its an 8 or 10 for the brake bleeder

 

if you really don't care about those screws, a chisel and hammer can get them started loosened

 

iirc 10 all the way around

 

Yup. Zip Tie train has been a useful tool over the years.

Thanks to all who responded!!

One more thing, if I may....those rotor shims. Any problem re-using those on replacement rotors? I assume they're installed for the existing rotors-are they there for clearance purposes of the original rotors?

 

what rotor shims? have no idea what you mean

the OE pads have shims on them, you transfer over if new pads didnt come with them

Some pads, like RacingBrake brand, dont want you to use those shims at all

 

zip tie train--great expression,,Im going to use that!

If I seem to over explain things- its for noobs with no car experience,,
the elders of the group get extra details which they may not know if new to the TL

Its not meant to talk down to anyone,,just to educate to the level of the newest member, and the rest can figure out how much info they need

probably dont have to tell you how to tighten lugs in a star pattern across from each other and to bring them up evenly- not nascar style the lugs! but noobs,,,

 

Great discussion guys. I have a original rotors on 03 TL with 152K miles. I have machined them twice to fix warping problem. Even though it costs only $10 each to have them machined, I want to get better rotors as they are slightly warped again. The original rotors cannot be machined again. They are at their minimum thickness spec.

I agree that long stops, say after rotors heat-up after coming down a steep mountain pass, with foot on brake, can cause problems. In those cases, I try to keep the car moving a little, creeping forward just a little, releasing the pads intermittently. Or, if possible, put it in neutral at the stop. Though my preference is to find rotors that resist warping with spirited driving.

Questions:

1) Does anyone have info about Cyro-Treated rotors? Are they less prone to warping than other rotors?

2) Are two-piece rotors less prone to warping?

3) Based upon Fasstym1 experience with IRotor (75k miles...no warping) , I'm inclined to go with IRotors and OEM pads. Can anyone else claim such a warp-free life? With rotors at least, if not with life itself.

 

No problem here. I appreciate any info brought to the table. I sift for what I need. It's actually better since the number of uninformed who view these threads can always pick up nuggets too.

Again, thanks Guys, for your input!

 

I'll answer the two parts I know a little about.

1) Cyro-treated rotors WILL reduce warpage vibrations during extremely heavy (racetrack) use. I have them on my sports car (which sees occasional trackday use), and they work as advertised.

2) Two piece rotors are designed to reduce unsprung weight. Think aluminum "hats" and cast iron or carbon-ceramic compo$ite (<---not a typo) rotors.

Neither 1 or 2 will do anything for warpage really on street cars, or for pad re-deposits (Which are 90% of street-use vibration problems).

Trying NOT to stop at all after those hard stops (keep creeping!) is the best deterrent against pad redeposits. Remember, even with your foot off the brake, the pads are in contact with ONE spot on the hot rotors. Disc brakes do not automatically retract as spring-loaded drum brakes do.

PS: Our '99's OE front rotors took until 155K miles until they reached the minimum thickness...turned once (and that, just to grind away the rusty ridge on the edges). Rear rotors are still on the car at 171K miles.

 

racingbrake brand (see MrHeelToe threads) with `maker matched pads`
et300 for wife drives in town a lot but needs awesome brakes for panic stops
et500 pads for wife uses a lot of gas~(she found vtec) and you like to play on backroads mountains etc

2 piece rotors are for racers not street drivers, no reason for you, cost not offset by lifespan and rotor ring replacement for you..total racer stuff

the trick for cooling the rotors after heavy use is to keep moving with some speed (25+mph) so airflow is brought thru its center vanes and cools across the surface.
that prevents most warping (assuming lugs on right etc)

in traffic: you can superheat the parts, in which case the slight moving forward helps- but lift off the pedal so pads can cool
dragging them when hot- or held tight when hot-hot and stopped-
that causes a `transfer of pad material to rotor` in one spot - unbalanced rotor = shake
Now this is desired when you are bedding the pads and getting uniform layer around rotor- but not on its own~