Can you get a better pic of the wire tap and where its located? Also have you tried removing it to see what happens?

 

Is it possible to purchase a new harness?

 

Someone suggested that I replace the TCM (transmission control module) do you know how I can check to see if mine needs replacing?

Also, is it possible to replace the harness that feeds the brake switch?

 

Yes I will post a pic of the wire tap. No brake lights don't work when I unplug the wire tap

 

Before you start listening to people wanting you to replace modules and wiring harnesses find the source of the problem.


Now lets rewind.

You have power coming to the brake switch not out?

Do you have power coming into the failure module and not coming out or do you have power coming out?

Do you have power at the brake lights?

Lets narrow this down without jumping to every little thing and wanting to know where it is, if you can replace it etc.... Lets go step by step.

 

Wire tap


<a href="http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee429/Addyboy311/?action=view&amp;current=IMG421.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee429/Addyboy311/IMG421.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>




With wire tap plug off

<a href="http://s1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee429/Addyboy311/?action=view&amp;current=IMG425.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee429/Addyboy311/IMG425.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

Wire tap







Wire Tap plug off

 

So that obviously does not look good. I cut and reconnected the wire. Still no brakes....

 

Rewind.. I have power going into the switch and coming out if the switch. I do not have power going into the failure sensor. I followed the wire from the trunk back up to the brake switch and didn't see any breaks in the line except for the wire tap.

I reconnected the wire where it was tapped and still no brake lights

 

Reconnecting that black/white power did fix my cruise control short though

 

There are 2 wires that go into the brake light failure box judging by the pic. Do both have power?

 

I'm not sure what you mean... There are a total of 4 wires on the brake light harness in the pic above. The yellow/white has power going in and the black/white has power coming out when the brake is pressed.
The other two wires dont have power...

 

remove any non factory tape- your problem may be hidden in there,, a bad splice or cut wire

the brake lights worked when power was jumped- correct?

ck each wire into the multi connector- its possible to pull one free from its connection but appear to be ok

how did that wire get cut?

 

side thought
would a splice near the failure sensor screw with it?

its looking for resistance change from dead bulb, a splice would alter the wires line resistance
(based on article regarding O2 sensor wires)

 

The Brake Failure sensor

Has a
wht/grn
Yellow 12v (fused)
wht/black 12v (comes from the brake switch closed 12v)
Grn (assuming 12v)
Blk Ground.




Going by this do you have 12v at the yellow wire going to the brake failure sensor? 12v when brake pedal is pressed on the wht/blk? 12v green?

 

I would look at all wire taps. Going by the one that was cut in 2 by the tap in the picture others could have it as well.

But first things first, lets see where he has power and doesnt.

 

None of the wires going in to thenfailure sensor have power. (With brake switch open or closed)

The other wire taps look fine.
Should there be 12v on the other 2 wires going in or coming out of the brake switch?

 

Update...
I have brake lights and I can shift out of park! ! !
Although it wasn't the fix I was looking for it works for me...

Here is what I ended up doing..

I decided to just run a new power from my brake switch directly to my failure sensor in the trunk.
I tapped into the black/white wire right after it comes out of the switch and then ran it under my panels into the trunk and tapped into the black/white wire right before it enters the failure sensor.

Everything works perfectly!
I guess now I have to ask, what are some down sides of doing it this way and leaving the old power write in place?

 

*the old power "wire" in place I should say

 

Congrats on your fix! Bypassing a wire like you did, is sometimes the only cost effictive fix. It's nobody's favorite, but if done properly, it shouldn't cause any problem. The only problem I could forsee would be that the old wire might create a short if your bypass left the old wire powered up. I have never actually heard of that happining. I'll bet your open circuit is another circuit tap cut in the harness between the brake switch and the left door sill.

 

Thanks.
Yes I was a little concerned about leaving the old power hooked up but I think your right about the open circuit being between the brake switch and the left door sill because that us the only spot I could not access the wire.
I labeled the new wire along the way just in case there is a problem down the road.

Thank you all for helping me troubleshoot this! it saved me hundreds of dollars!
When i talked to The stealership over the phone they wanted me to replace the brake switch, bulbs, failure sensor, and said i would probably have to take out my remote start and alarm in the process. Then to top it all off the tried to upsell me on a new alarm system. When I said I didn't want to do all that they suggested that I come down and trade in the vehicle..