can i test the output shaft sensor on transmission
10-15-2015, 12:55 PM
#1
can i test the output shaft sensor on transmission
I just bought a really nice 2000 acura tl and the trans is acting very strange.The tcs light is always on and the d5 light flashes after driving for a little bit.I used the paper clip and retrieved code 28 and 31 from the tcs but cant figure out exactly what they mean.I have both the mainshaft and output shaft sensors out and was wandering if there is a way to test these sensors such as using a multimeter to test for continuity and if so does anyone know the specs?Thank you very much for any advice.
10-15-2015, 01:00 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
Hate to be the wet blanket but that generation TL had a notoriously bad transmission so if the D5 light is flashing, chances are, your tranny is on its way out..
10-15-2015, 01:06 PM
#3
I had kinda figured that as well so ive been looking into transmissions.I was just reading about the newer accord trans swap.Seems fairly simple,but if i can figure out if maybe im a lucky one and mines still holding together and just needs a sensor or two thatd be great.The trans grabs solid just shifts weird almost like the tcs is kicking on.
10-15-2015, 01:07 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
AV6 Swap is very common yup!
Best of luck to ya!
Best of luck to ya!
10-15-2015, 01:31 PM
#6
Honda Accord AV6 - '06 - '07 V6 model, NOT HYBRID.
Also the TCS codes indicate a possible problem in your ABS/TCS system.
If you haven't had your car for more than a couple days I'd give it back if at all possible and you have lemon laws backing you up. I love my TL but you're probably going to be into yours about 2x what you paid for it to get it running smooth. But if/when you do, you'll love this car.
Also the TCS codes indicate a possible problem in your ABS/TCS system.
If you haven't had your car for more than a couple days I'd give it back if at all possible and you have lemon laws backing you up. I love my TL but you're probably going to be into yours about 2x what you paid for it to get it running smooth. But if/when you do, you'll love this car.
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10-15-2015, 01:38 PM
#8
I dont mind putting some money and work into a vehicle.I have a You Pull It Yard fairly close so parts are usually very cheap,I just dont like putting parts that arent needed or are just going to fail as well into a vehicle.
10-15-2015, 03:03 PM
#9
The AV6 is the best way to go in my opinion. But there are a few around here who swear by the rebuild kits - if you do some searching around here you'll find some research that some people have done on the rebuild kits. Supposedly there's a company out there who has nailed down the problem behind the failures and have designed new solenoids that work better.
I personally have already had my trans rebuilt at ~96K in '11. My trans is doing okay now but when/if it goes again I'll be going with the much more complicated CL 6-speed MT swap.
I personally have already had my trans rebuilt at ~96K in '11. My trans is doing okay now but when/if it goes again I'll be going with the much more complicated CL 6-speed MT swap.
10-15-2015, 04:33 PM
#10
Well my trans is definetly suffering from the third gear problem.Just took it to get my son off the bus and manual shifted,as soon as i shifted to 3rd it slipped for a second before grabbing so I'm heading to the salvage yard asap and grabbing an av6.
10-15-2015, 06:00 PM
#13
I think so on the ody trans. I think it has the same gear ratios as the Type-S trans. However, they have the same problem as the TL trans of the same era (pretty much all '00 - '03, '04 5 speed honda transmissions).
Do you have any DTCs (check engine light)? We'll need more information to diagnose your TCS problem. It could be related to your Trans problems. When your D5 light flashes, does it have a pattern to it? Do you have a Type-S or a premium model?
Do you have any DTCs (check engine light)? We'll need more information to diagnose your TCS problem. It could be related to your Trans problems. When your D5 light flashes, does it have a pattern to it? Do you have a Type-S or a premium model?
10-15-2015, 06:05 PM
#14
Cel light for an oxygen sensor.Just took it for another drive and it was doing good but after about 5 minutes even in manual mode it acted like it kicked down a gear or two for a split second and then acted like it wouldnt come out of 3rd cause at 60mph the rpms were very high.I dont know what version.How do i tell?The d5 light didnt flash this time.So,i should look foir an 05-06 ody or 06-07 accord trans?
10-15-2015, 07:02 PM
#15
Sounds like your 3rd gear clutch pack is failing. Check around here for a DIY on how to remove, inspect, and clean your shift solenoids. The A/B solenoids are under the battery tray. The TC lockup solenoid is roughly in same location but on the side of the trans, behind the radiator. My guess is that one has a dirty screen in the gasket. Get those cleaned out and do a 3x3 with honda DW-1 ATF (drain, refill 3 quarts, 3x with a 5-10 min drive in-between oil changes).
There's a round-ish external ATF filter near the A/B solenoids that can be changed as well ($25 online, ~$50 at the dealer I think). If you do all this then it'll hopefully buy you enough time to keep driving it until you source an AV6.
I would also inspect your pressure switches.
The AV6 is off a V6 honda accord, '06-'07 models. There's a DIY here (stickied) with all the instructions. Good luck!
There's a round-ish external ATF filter near the A/B solenoids that can be changed as well ($25 online, ~$50 at the dealer I think). If you do all this then it'll hopefully buy you enough time to keep driving it until you source an AV6.
I would also inspect your pressure switches.
The AV6 is off a V6 honda accord, '06-'07 models. There's a DIY here (stickied) with all the instructions. Good luck!
10-15-2015, 08:19 PM
#16
Drifting
OP
If the D5 is blinking there is a DTC. You need to get the DTC and fix that first before worrying about the trans.
So go to a parts store and get the DTC. If the parts store can't pull the DTC then go to the dealership to pull the DTC.
If the D5 is blinking there is a DTC. You need to get the DTC and fix that first before worrying about the trans.
So go to a parts store and get the DTC. If the parts store can't pull the DTC then go to the dealership to pull the DTC.
10-16-2015, 06:39 AM
#17
I have the o2 sensor to fix the dtc so ill change that today then inspect and clean the sensors and do the 3x3 and see how it acts then and ill continue my search for an av6.Thank you guys very much.
10-16-2015, 10:20 AM
#19
Here's a video.
Make sure that you test the solenoid for function by hooking it up to the battery. You should get a 'click' and the valve inside should snap back and forth (when connected/disconnected power) and not be sluggish. Let us know how the screens look in them.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-again-929434/
Make sure that you test the solenoid for function by hooking it up to the battery. You should get a 'click' and the valve inside should snap back and forth (when connected/disconnected power) and not be sluggish. Let us know how the screens look in them.
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-again-929434/
10-16-2015, 11:39 AM
#20
I think i discovered part of my problem.The previous owner had the trans flushed at a quick lube and they puit Pennzoil Multi Vehicle High Mileage Synthetic fluid in it instead of honda specific fluid.Will be doing a 3x3 for sure now.
10-16-2015, 12:15 PM
#23
OH man. I threw up in my mouth a little. These transmissions can NOT be flushed using high pressure flushing machines. Also they can ONLY have Honda fluids - spec is Z-1 but Honda replaced that with DW-1. You'll get much better response and gas mileage on DW-1. Good luck!
10-16-2015, 02:14 PM
#24
Drifting
OP
So exactly what is the trans do or not doing, in full detail please?
Ie... shudder shifting from 3rd to 4th only; down shifting hard fron 4th to 3rd; flares after shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
So exactly what is the trans do or not doing, in full detail please?
Ie... shudder shifting from 3rd to 4th only; down shifting hard fron 4th to 3rd; flares after shifting from 2nd to 3rd.
10-16-2015, 06:41 PM
#26
Got off work early so pulled solenoids and tested and cleaned.The lower solenoid was plugged a little.Tested good.Replaced o2 sensor and got rid of cel but it came back after a short drive then about 10 minutes in the tcs light came back.Got back to the house and put my code scanner on it and got codes P0450 P0740 P0453.Cleared those and took on another drive and got on the car a little harder than the first time and d5 started flashing,tcs light on,cel on.Also lost reverse until i shut the car off.Only cel light back on when started back up right away after shutting off and had reverse.Got back,scanned car again and got shift malfunction.Cleared it and hasnt came back yet.01acls it just had a second of slippage when shifting into 3rd originally and then downshifted violently on its own and then acted like it was stuck in 2nd or 3rd cause rpms were high for the speed.That hasnt happened again yet.Its gonna be a couple days before i can afford to do the 3x3 so the cars probably gonna sit still till then.Some more news,i think i may have a motor mount going bad.The engine moves more than i believe it should when i put it in gear.
10-16-2015, 06:44 PM
#27
Chojun,i had a screaming match with the quick lube place over this cause they wanted to act like i was full of s#&@ when i said that they were wrong for using non honda fluid.I dont think they like me anymore but i could care less,$100 plus dollars for them to do stuff wrong to my transmission.
10-16-2015, 07:18 PM
#28
Okay the bad news is P0740 = replace your transmission. I'm on the road so can't look up the others but that's the short answer for now. And yes I cringe whenever the quick lube places offer to change my trans fluid.
Also motor mounts are known to go bad in these cars around 75k miles.
Also motor mounts are known to go bad in these cars around 75k miles.
10-16-2015, 08:00 PM
#29
DTCs:
P0450: Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit Low/High Voltage (temporary DTC)
P0453: Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
You probably have a vacuum leak or other kind of vacuum problem in the FTP sensor.
P0740: A problem in the Lock-up control system (usually transmission-fatal DTC).
You can try replacing the clutch pressure control A/B solenoids and Lock-up control solenoid valve/shift control solenoid valve A assembly, but these will run you about half the cost of an AV6. Just mail your current transmission to the Taliban and drop in the AV6.
P0450: Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit Low/High Voltage (temporary DTC)
P0453: Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
You probably have a vacuum leak or other kind of vacuum problem in the FTP sensor.
P0740: A problem in the Lock-up control system (usually transmission-fatal DTC).
You can try replacing the clutch pressure control A/B solenoids and Lock-up control solenoid valve/shift control solenoid valve A assembly, but these will run you about half the cost of an AV6. Just mail your current transmission to the Taliban and drop in the AV6.
Last edited by Chojun; 10-16-2015 at 08:04 PM.
10-17-2015, 12:58 AM
#31
Drifting
OP,
The proper way to test the trans is to pressure test the trans clutch ports to determine the condition of the trans. If that's not possible then I would try the following.
Replace and/or service the following:
1. DW1 3X3.
2. Trans filter.
3. Torque coverter shift solenoid valve/Shift control solenoid B.
4. Pressure control solenoid A/B, clean the screens at the bottom of the 3 pipes, replace the O-rings, replace the gasket.
5. Shift contorl solenoid valve C.
6. 3rd clutch pressure switch.
Note: If these are still the original parts that came with the car, then I would go ahead and replace them all. They may test out ok but, they’re old, parts are worn and tire, and probably at the end or near their service life or actually already out of spec. OEM parts will net the best possible results.
If the trans is resurrected from the dead, I would do another 3x3 ATF fluid change in a week or two.
The proper way to test the trans is to pressure test the trans clutch ports to determine the condition of the trans. If that's not possible then I would try the following.
Replace and/or service the following:
1. DW1 3X3.
2. Trans filter.
3. Torque coverter shift solenoid valve/Shift control solenoid B.
4. Pressure control solenoid A/B, clean the screens at the bottom of the 3 pipes, replace the O-rings, replace the gasket.
5. Shift contorl solenoid valve C.
6. 3rd clutch pressure switch.
Note: If these are still the original parts that came with the car, then I would go ahead and replace them all. They may test out ok but, they’re old, parts are worn and tire, and probably at the end or near their service life or actually already out of spec. OEM parts will net the best possible results.
If the trans is resurrected from the dead, I would do another 3x3 ATF fluid change in a week or two.
Last edited by 01acls; 10-17-2015 at 01:05 AM.
10-20-2015, 06:29 AM
#32
Is there a visual way to tell if a car has already had an accord trans swapped in?Planning on going to the pic a part today and i know there was 4 3.2tl cars there and 3 with transmissions still in them so i was hoping maybe one of them already had an accord trans and i could visually tell if so.
10-20-2015, 06:40 PM
#33
Well,went to the pic a part today and got an 04 ody trans and torque converter from a repo van for $120 so im gonna put it in and cross my fingers.I can pull the trans out the top fairly easy on the acura right?
10-21-2015, 02:38 PM
#35
Ran into a problem.The heater assemblies or whatever it is on top are totally different and not interchangeable.Can i use the ody heater and hook up the hoses from the car to it?