Broken rear Stabilizer

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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 09:57 AM
  #1  
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Question Broken rear Stabilizer

Yesterday my friend and I rotated my tires and as we were removing the rear passenger tire he noticed that the stabilizer was broken. I was freakin out as I do not know much about cars. He told me its nothing serious, he told me that when I turn I'll here a noise, in which he is absolutely correct as I have noticed some noise when I made a right turn. Anyways how serious is this? would I need to get this replaced ASAP? or its completely ok? also how much am I looking to spend if I get it done in a shop?

It's a 2002 TL.
Thanks
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 11:10 AM
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It is not that serious but you need to replace it asap to avoid other damages due to broken endlink. do your turns slow.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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What exactly is broken? the sway bar or the endlinks? There is a big difference in price.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 01:18 PM
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I say replace all endlinks and all sway bars to something stiffer lol.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
What exactly is broken? the sway bar or the endlinks? There is a big difference in price.
yea the rear sway bar links are a big difference in price. i just realized the front sway bars are only $40, compared to $130 in the rear....weird...

anyways, hope its the endlinks that are broken. in which case you should take a look at Moog endlinks, they're a lot beefier
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 01:54 PM
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stock one for Tl is 48 bucks...don't ask me how I know...

Ok...let's say it involves installing the coilovers and removing that nut/threading with the allen wrench and an impact wrench.

Dumbass I am.
Either way, not too big a deal, just didn't handle as well.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 02:05 PM
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the sway bay is fine.. its the rear end link thats broken - this is the part that connects to the wheel correct??
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by akad3m1kz
the sway bay is fine.. its the rear end link thats broken - this is the part that connects to the wheel correct??
Part 6/7

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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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yeah thats her.. i just got it, does anyone have the DIY for this?? do i need any special tools??
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 07:52 PM
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Here ya go...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/184466/6

I did it a couple months back, very easy, no special tools required

You might want to be prepared to have to cut the endlinks off, as the hex key may get stripped.
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Old Apr 23, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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Cut it off and don't bust your knuckles while stripping the bolts like I did. Much easier to just cut it off. The Moog endlinks are a huge improvement over OEM and I got the rears at Advanced for $24.99 each, front were $20.99 each. Damn my car handles and steers nice and tight now.
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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your car handles better now? just due to endlinks? why bother replacing whole bar then...this may be good info.
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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also...when installing and uninstalling...use a second jack to take the load off the endlink and get the hole to line up with the bolt coming thru...makes it a lot easier...also spray with wd40 and you may be able to thread all the way up and back out without the need for the allens key. I was able too and made it a lot better when working in such a tight space!
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
also...when installing and uninstalling...use a second jack to take the load off the endlink and get the hole to line up with the bolt coming thru...makes it a lot easier...also spray with wd40 and you may be able to thread all the way up and back out without the need for the allens key. I was able too and made it a lot better when working in such a tight space!
you were able to get the endlinks off without the hex key?!
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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sure was...if you use a second jack to take the pressure off the assembly and spray with some lube, you can finesse it off without holding it in place. Once it gets to a certain tightness it holds itself without the need for the allens wrench at all.
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Old Apr 24, 2009 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
sure was...if you use a second jack to take the pressure off the assembly and spray with some lube, you can finesse it off without holding it in place. Once it gets to a certain tightness it holds itself without the need for the allens wrench at all.
i just realized something...

not trying to question your process BUT...
you have a newer TL
you live in FL and never see snow and salt haha

but seriously, were they rusty?
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 12:45 AM
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x2, exactly this is the right way to do it to avoid stripping it.

Originally Posted by rockstar143
sure was...if you use a second jack to take the pressure off the assembly and spray with some lube, you can finesse it off without holding it in place. Once it gets to a certain tightness it holds itself without the need for the allens wrench at all.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 04:03 PM
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No sir...cruddy yes, rusty NO! Plus, the other side one was a new one since I banged up the stock original one with an impact hammer and and ACTUAL hammer! Friggin bringing a damn gun to a knife fight...it'll get ya every time.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 06:11 PM
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....no rust? thats weak....

haha j/p
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 09:09 AM
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very weak...but I'll take it!
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
your car handles better now? just due to endlinks? why bother replacing whole bar then...this may be good info.
I already had F&R Eibach sways and other suspension mods. Worn end links will make your car handle sloppy and roll more than it should.
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Old Apr 28, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Gotcha...didn't think just replacing that would make much of a difference without the rest.
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