Hey guys i have a customer's '03 TL in my shop. It came in on the hook with no brakes. Looked underneath and rear brake lines were rotted out and leaking. Nice easy fix. Well after bleeding it there is no pedal. Turns out the guy and his son were messing around with it in their driveway before they had it towed in. So I figure the guy probably blew the master pumping the brakes to the floor repeatedly. So another nice easy fix replaced the master and...still no pedal. I take the car out for a ride and the first time you hit the pedal it goes to the floor. But when you release it and hit it again the brakes are perfect. Let off for a couple seconds hit the brakes and the same thing...pedal goes to the floor. If anyone has a suggestion I would greatly appreciate the help.

 

Drive it on a dirt road, or whatever you need to engage the abs. Do several abs stops, then bleed all 4 starting at lf, then rf,rr,lr. I think you have air in the system.

 

I agree the TL has a special bleed order - then do 2 ABS active stops from 45mph
gravel- wet whatever it takes but you want pedal shake to a stop
back to 45 and repeat abs active to dead stop
that removes the hidden air and moves it to caliper
rebleed and all should be well

 

Thanks guys. I have a dirt road behind my shop and I've been back there a few times to do that. I probably have about 4 quarts of fluid bled through the system by now. I even activated each ABS valve through my scanner hoping that would push some air through.

 

May want to try retrieving the ABS codes, if any come up ? Must have the special reader.

 

did you rebleed after the 2 ABS full stop from 45 mph
its got to do with the pump more than the valves
Acura requires this done IF any brake line has been open--and this car....qualifies~

my suggestion is bleed- do the 2 stops as described and rebleed driver front =LF then RF RR LR
the special bleed order (different than most cars) is all important!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
info given for noobs- not to demean real techs

I have found bubbles in LF after doing this, after SS line install

 

Years ago when I did a rear brake pad change on a car, I blew out the piston seal and got the exact same issue you describe.

 

good call-
OP stated repaired bad lines in rear,,,but a bad caliper seal would `bypass pressure`- much like a master cyl will do when its seal goes, doesn't lose fluid but wont make/hold pressure

 

Did you find the answer on this? Just curious.