Brake Lines Busted!!!
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Brake Lines Busted!!!
So i replaced my rear two calipers and when i go to pump the brakes the pedal hits the floor. So i fill the brake fluid up and it just drains out, I look at the bottom of the car and im leaking mad fluid from the middle driverside undercarriage. Theres like 4 metal very thin brake lines covered by some black plastic piece, im guessing to protect them. But my lines busted there, has anyone done this job? Switching the lines, need info im debating wether i should go to the junkyard and get it or taking it to a shop......need info...help...lol
#2
remove cover and inspect connections
a brake specialty shop is the best place for help
you may need a short piece cut and fitted (needs special connectors)
or a new length shaped and installed
brake lines are your life--dont mess around
a regular shop wont have experience with this prob
go to a specialist,,but not dealer~
how did you bleed the system?
note special order for the TL= LF RF RR LR
a brake specialty shop is the best place for help
you may need a short piece cut and fitted (needs special connectors)
or a new length shaped and installed
brake lines are your life--dont mess around
a regular shop wont have experience with this prob
go to a specialist,,but not dealer~
how did you bleed the system?
note special order for the TL= LF RF RR LR
The following users liked this post:
Bearcat94 (03-25-2012)
#3
Original Owner / Oct 1998
I'll add that if one brake line is corroded, the others may be, too.
Remove all the plastic retainers in that area and inspect the other lines.
BTW, often a good auto parts store can set you up with a replacement line (bring the old broken one, in to match up the end-fittings). Junkyard parts are not the answer where brake lines are concerned!
Remove all the plastic retainers in that area and inspect the other lines.
BTW, often a good auto parts store can set you up with a replacement line (bring the old broken one, in to match up the end-fittings). Junkyard parts are not the answer where brake lines are concerned!
#4
I just started another thread about fuel lines as a result of this exact same issue. I was out of town and the brakes started feeling "mushy". Got to were I was going and looked under the car and found a pool of fluid in the middle of the car.
Long story short, I drove (without brakes) to a local Honda dealer and they spliced in new brake lines, joining them at the firewall and the rear axle.
That plastic "cage" is a great idea except it holds all the salt in with the lines. I'm now concerned about the fuel lines which are also located in that bundle as they are as rusty as the old break lines and if those go, the car is immobile. I went to my local Acura dealer and they wanted $1100 to replace the fuel lines.
Find a local car repair place and get them to run new lines. This is not rocket science for the average mechanic but clearly important none the less. I agree with the other posters that a junk yard is not the place to buy break lines. If you have access to and know how to use a flaring kit, go buy the raw break line and do it yourself.
Good luck.
smarty.
Long story short, I drove (without brakes) to a local Honda dealer and they spliced in new brake lines, joining them at the firewall and the rear axle.
That plastic "cage" is a great idea except it holds all the salt in with the lines. I'm now concerned about the fuel lines which are also located in that bundle as they are as rusty as the old break lines and if those go, the car is immobile. I went to my local Acura dealer and they wanted $1100 to replace the fuel lines.
Find a local car repair place and get them to run new lines. This is not rocket science for the average mechanic but clearly important none the less. I agree with the other posters that a junk yard is not the place to buy break lines. If you have access to and know how to use a flaring kit, go buy the raw break line and do it yourself.
Good luck.
smarty.
Last edited by smartypants; 03-18-2012 at 09:27 AM.
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I was thinking the same. Repair my lines. Now i would just need to cut my line where its broken and flare the tip then add a piece of line. Easier said then done....lol but im going to give it a shot. Worst case ill send it to a shop. Thanks again.
#6
Original Owner / Oct 1998
I'll mention that replacing your brake fluid on a regular basis prevents brake lines from rusting from the INSIDE.
Because brake fluid retains water, it can corrode metal lines (and calipers, where it could wear out the rubber seals). I've had friends with seldom-used trucks that have lost brakes because of broken lines.
Replace your brake fluid at least as often as Honda/Acura recommends (every three years, regardless of mileage). Many folks prefer a one or two-year interval. On our track cars, we replace fluid twice a season...
Because brake fluid retains water, it can corrode metal lines (and calipers, where it could wear out the rubber seals). I've had friends with seldom-used trucks that have lost brakes because of broken lines.
Replace your brake fluid at least as often as Honda/Acura recommends (every three years, regardless of mileage). Many folks prefer a one or two-year interval. On our track cars, we replace fluid twice a season...
#7
on our race cars--fluid was flushed between every session on track!
thats 3-5 times per weekend!
On my street car, flush every year, plus before and after a day of hard braking fun on the way to Yosemite
heat is fluids main enemy
Hygroscopic action is its other enemy..wiki for why
its rust particles that form in the moisture/water that gets sucked into the master cyl, right past the oring...and are pushed thru the lines to calipers =
where the tiny sharp edged particles cut the oring seal on caliper piston
Will drive you crazy trying to figure out that problem
thats 3-5 times per weekend!
On my street car, flush every year, plus before and after a day of hard braking fun on the way to Yosemite
heat is fluids main enemy
Hygroscopic action is its other enemy..wiki for why
its rust particles that form in the moisture/water that gets sucked into the master cyl, right past the oring...and are pushed thru the lines to calipers =
where the tiny sharp edged particles cut the oring seal on caliper piston
Will drive you crazy trying to figure out that problem
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#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Well I was able to fix the line myself, i bought a brake line and the flaring tool kit and made a piece to fit with the adapters, total cost $25 from pepboys. Took me twice to get all the kinks out but now I know for future refrence...lol...
#11
Original Owner / Oct 1998
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